Removing TJ Fender Signals - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 12-09-2010, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Removing TJ Fender Signals

I found this pic on the web. How would you do it? On a scale of 1-10 how hard? I really like the turn signals under the headlights.





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post #2 of 27 Old 12-09-2010, 05:20 PM
Boodyrider
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Buy CJ signals, cut a hole, install.

But those are probably long distance driving lights on the grille, the turn signals are in the bumper.

97 TJ Sport - 4.0/HP D30 w ARB/8.8 w LS/4.88s; 35s and flat fenders on 2.5 lift

84 CJ7; frame off restoration in progress.

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post #3 of 27 Old 12-09-2010, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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I should have been more clear. I'm looking at the difficulty of removing the stock blinker from the fender and filling it. If I would do it, I would put blinkers under the headlights.

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post #4 of 27 Old 12-09-2010, 07:18 PM
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After you remove the light you have to weld in (yes you HAVE to weld) a panel and then grind all the welds flat. Then use some body filler or lead (if you are a man about it) and then primer then color then clear, then buff Most likely you will have to paint most of fender if not the jeep (depends on how much sun it has seen and how the paint has faded, you won't see the sun damage until you spray then new paint on it) All in all, if you don't have some skill in body work and painting, you are going to hate yourself and then pay twice as much if have it done. That being said, I have no idea out there if fender like that exist, this is the way to do it at home for cheap
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post #5 of 27 Old 12-10-2010, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have a ball park of how much to have it done? I think I could do all of it, but I'm iffy on the matching the paint.
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post #6 of 27 Old 12-11-2010, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Just to help me understand. Welding in a plate is required to fill in the hole. Is there another reason to weld? Would fiberglass work? Also since the light is secure with bolts, could you bolt in a plate and then fill it? I don't have a problem with welding, I'm just trying to understand if there are other ways.

What is the benefit of lead over body filler?
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post #7 of 27 Old 12-18-2010, 12:13 PM
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It would be most cost effective to remove the light, and make a filler piece/blockoff plate.
You could paint match the filler, and use some stainless hardware, or sit it flush.

Then just mount the new signals in the desired location.

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post #8 of 27 Old 12-19-2010, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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I've made some 1/4 plate blanks to fill in the area. I plan to use the existing holes to bolt in the plate. From there I will use filler. I may add some fiberglass resin to the back to make sure it's water tight. The lights are on order. Now I just have to wait a few months for the weather to warm up.
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post #9 of 27 Old 12-21-2010, 08:41 AM
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If you don't weld, better body shops have been hanging whole qt panels for the last 5-7 years with great success with this, http://www.drillspot.com/products/453182/3M_8115_Panel_Bonding_Adhesive
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post #10 of 27 Old 04-10-2011, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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There was a break in the weather so I decided to give it a try. My plan was to try and do this without welding. I wanted to do it this way so people without a welder had some idea on what to do. This was my first time with body filler so keep that in mind if you try it this way.

The plan going in was to use a plate to replace the light. The hole is pretty deep so I used a 1/4 inch plate and rounded the edges so it would fit well. The pics below are from a cell phone. Sorry.





To protect the plate and entire area I decided to entomb it with some Bondo Fiberglass Resin Jelly. It is water tight and chemical resistant.



I sandwiched the resin to the back of the plate and all around the ground down hole.



I covered the back of the plate also so water would come in from the back.







Once the resin was dry (I let is sit about 45 minutes), I covered it with body filler.



From there is was primer and paint. I decided to give Duplicolor a try.



Duplicolor sucked. I ordered a can from paintscratch.com.







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post #11 of 27 Old 04-10-2011, 08:00 PM
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that turned out really good. That spot will discolor eventually, just depends on how long you leave it in the sun. Next time then you are near the end with the color, pull the tape and mist the last coat on that way you don't have such a hard edge, but that turned out good!
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post #12 of 27 Old 04-11-2011, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StupendousMan View Post
that turned out really good. That spot will discolor eventually, just depends on how long you leave it in the sun. Next time then you are near the end with the color, pull the tape and mist the last coat on that way you don't have such a hard edge, but that turned out good!
Thanks a lot and thanks for the tip. I was planning to roll back the newspaper so it would have a feather edge, but knowing the color didn't match I decided to wait until the new paint arrives. I'll sand most of this coating away and apply some spot putty before adding the paintscratch paint.
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post #13 of 27 Old 04-12-2011, 01:12 PM
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is this what your looking to do, because if so, its easy.





oops i guess i should have read the entire thread... lol what you did looks good, so you did it correctly.
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post #14 of 27 Old 04-12-2011, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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I sanded down the edges and feathered the paint. It turned out a lot better. I'm still going to go over it with some spot/glazy putty and feather with the paintscratch paint.

Quote:
oops i guess i should have read the entire thread... lol what you did looks good, so you did it correctly.
Thanks. Yours looks great! Did you weld or fill?
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post #15 of 27 Old 04-13-2011, 09:30 PM
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Wornder why they didnt do that from the factory?

That isn't mud, it's a jeep beauty cream and the smell well, it'll go away when it drys..
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