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Unread 07-14-2013, 08:30 AM   #1
helmetface
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Refinishing roof and hood - 00 xj - few questions. .

Hey guys, refinishing my black xj's hood and roof is on my short list as there is a lot of pitting and surface rust. I'd like to address it before it ends up going all the way through.

First and most important, anyone have any idea if a pint (1pint primer, 1pint base, 1pint clear) will be enough for solid hood and roof coating?

Anyone ever use this site for paint supplies:http://www.automotivetouchup.com ?

They seem to have very reasonable prices and claims of good quality and factory matched paints.

Otherwise, my game plan:
-Strip off roof stripping and roof rack
-Rough sanding with ~80 grit with an orbital sander
-I'll pull out my sanding block and begin working with 180, 320 to start smoothing.
-I'll then use some body filler to hit overly thin and low spots and begin to wetsand with 320 and go back and forth between putty and sanding until its even.
-After I'm satisfied with that I'll do a 600grit wetsand as prep for primer.
-Wetsand with 1000/1500 grit for ultimate smoothness and prime with acrylic lacquer primer
-Drying process, and then begin coating with factory black basecoat
-Drying process and clearcoat for the win..

Anyone have any comments?

Complete painting noob here haha. Will all be done in a garage with an entry level Earlson HLPV sprayer.

Thanks!

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Unread 07-14-2013, 08:42 AM   #2
CJ7-Tim
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First buy a book about automotive refinishing. Your proposed process includes an excessive amount of time, and labor, for anything less than a show car.

In addition to your printed refinishing manual, I would work a local paint supplier who can give you advice/recomendations on preparation, paint coverage, and equipment.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 12:01 PM   #3
helmetface
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
First buy a book about automotive refinishing. Your proposed process includes an recessive amount of time, and labor, for anything less than a show car.

In addition to your printed refinishing manual, I would work a local paint supplier who can give you advice/recomendations on preparation, paint coverage, and equipment.
Thanks for sharing Tim, those are some good points..Definitely don't want to do this process again ah

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Unread 07-14-2013, 12:15 PM   #4
Jeepinid
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Hi helmet face
I have been an auto painter for twenty years. You are definitely going to spend way more time and money going with your plan. The only way to go on this is to strip the hood and roof to bare metal. Do you have air tools available? I would be happy to give you step by step help.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 12:32 PM   #5
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As for coverage or quantities of material, that depends on if you have a pint before you add reducer. Most base coats use a 1:1reduction, so a pint will be two pints spray able. The primer will probably have a 4: 1:1 ratio. 4primer 1 hardener1reducer. I would highly recommend epoxy primer over clean bare metal. You should be able to strip to bare metal with 80 grit on a d.a. Sander pretty easily. Go over the 80 da scratches in the bare metal with 180 on a da, (orbital) . I agree with Tim on going with a local paint and auto body supplies store. They usually will have three different lines of paint products. High end mid and cheap. I would recommend mid line. No no no on the lacquer primer..
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Unread 07-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #6
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The process is not hard. Let me know if you have questions, I've done this to oh probably way over a thousand cars and trucks over the years.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 01:20 PM   #7
helmetface
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Originally Posted by Jeepinid View Post
The process is not hard. Let me know if you have questions, I've done this to oh probably way over a thousand cars and trucks over the years.
You sir are mu personal hero for the day!

I'm going to read through your posts more thoroughly when I get in order to evaluate and prepare a good response.

Just wanted to say thanks to you (and Tim) for aiding me.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 04:23 PM   #8
helmetface
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepinid View Post
Hi helmet face
I have been an auto painter for twenty years. You are definitely going to spend way more time and money going with your plan. The only way to go on this is to strip the hood and roof to bare metal. Do you have air tools available? I would be happy to give you step by step help.
Hey man I don't have access to air tools (I wish!) I've got an orbital and an electric sprayer at my disposal.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 11:56 AM   #9
ATVRACER76
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You need to strip the paint off.. I used a paint stripper and some razor blades to get my roof to bare metal.. You can buy some rattle can stripper and make sure you cover everything you dont want to remove the paint from.. once you got it to bare metal you need to sand all the rust off hopefully not going through the metal.. If you dont remove the rust, itll come back.. If removing all the rust isnt possible, you can por 15 just the rusty spots and after that dries, primer and topcoat.. Or your left with cutting out the rust and replacing with new metal..

Once you have it all ready to start putting primer on, you have to put an acid etching primer first to keep it from rusting again.. Then you can seal it and topcoat..

I agree with the posts above that you need to research painting something that is bare metal.. You shouldnt have to do much sanding other than where you have repaired areas and a good scotchbrite scuff on the rest of it..
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Unread 07-15-2013, 03:39 PM   #10
helmetface
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Also, there is some rust forming under the rubber lip that seals the windshield in..Is there any way to address this without removing it?

I can peel it back far enough to sand (by hand) all the way to the edge but I'm not sure of the quality as it'll be tight and limited to small portions at a time..

Same goes for the priming and painting processes.
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Unread 07-18-2013, 07:23 AM   #11
ATVRACER76
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I would have the windshield taken out if there rust up in the top corners.. The rubber around the windshield covers alot you cant see.. If i were a betting man, i bet theres more rust under there that you cant see and if its not taken care of, the rust monster will come back..
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Unread 07-18-2013, 04:31 PM   #12
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You could just do bedliner and not worry about the learning curve of painting

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Unread 07-23-2013, 08:26 AM   #13
helmetface
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You could just do bedliner and not worry about the learning curve of painting

I would still need to treat the rust and prime the bare metal

How much did the bedliner cost?
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Unread 07-25-2013, 03:31 AM   #14
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Yes on the rust and bare metal, ML can not go directly over this

2 gals with color for this project will cost appx $300 - 340 depending on choice of final color, spray gun extra, free ship
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Unread 07-28-2013, 05:31 AM   #15
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Monstaliners worth it, I drive into tree branches daily and they have managed to scratch the crap out of my roof rack but not the monstaliner, not a single damn scratch. Definitely pull the windshield if there's rust, I pulled mine out pretty easily with just a razor, I wire wheeled down to bare metal and primed and then had a professional put the windshield back in for $50.
If you don't pull your windshield then at least pull your carpet and plugs so when (if its not already) your windshield leaks at least it doesn't rot out the floor.
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