My cj8 has a crappy rattle can paint job over the existing factory paint and some filler in some dented areas. I am planning on blasting and sanding it to remove all the old paint to get it back to bare metal. I eventually want to have the entire jeep epoxy primed and have a nice paint applied. I am trying to figure out how to prevent flash rust from forming while it is waiting for primer. I need to get all the old paint and filler off so I can see any additional areas that need to be fixed before priming/paint. Doing this during my free time means it will take a few weeks/ months between paint removal and new primer. I don't want to put something on the bare metal that will affect primer adhesion. The seems to be varying opinions on this. Any advice?
Get some zinc phosphate pretreatment like Ospho and treat the surfaces as you blast them. It will inhibit rust for a while but not indefinitely. You can epoxy prime over this in the future without other steps.
zinc chromate has been used since the 1940's with very good results. gives a green tint when going on bare metal. iirc, it's what the military specs out as a primer on their vehicles... or at least used to.
I have used WD40 just need to remove it before painting. Or like magnetman said use a product to leave zinc phosphate on it. I personally like some of the Eastwood products.
I had heard of using Ospho, but i read an article by the president of Southern Polyurethane Inc. (SPI) and he said to never use a product like Ospho because it will cause adhesion problems with the primer. I also read other body guys that have used it for 15 plus years without any issues. I am not sure how you are suppose to know what to believe.
Listen to the people with the actual experience who have nothing to gain by sharing knowledge.
Body guys know more than most presidents of paint companies :rofl:
Any product misused can cause problems. What I know from actual lab experience is that zinc phosphate treatments if done
more than once over a bare metal surface will start to build up a layer of phosphate that is weakly bonded to the surface.
Paint over that and you will have adhesion issues. This is probably what the guy was talking about. Inexperienced users run
into this problem with the thinking that more is better and doing multiple applications.
After blasting metal I mix a small batch of Epoxy primer and either spray, roll,brush or pour it on. I like brushing or pouring it into rust prone areas. There are industrial suppliers that have high quality products around 50-60 per gallon. Once dried the epoxy primers also seal as standard primers do not. They all need to be sanded once they are more then a couple days old so brush marks get sanded off. Leaving bare metal is a no no any where but in the desert. Look at any project put up by Iron Workers and they are all painted with red oxide industrial epoxy primer. Then covered by a good top coat you will acheave the best rust protection possible.
After blasting metal I mix a small batch of Epoxy primer and either spray, roll,brush or pour it on. I like brushing or pouring it into rust prone areas. There are industrial suppliers that have high quality products around 50-60 per gallon. Once dried the epoxy primers also seal as standard primers do not. They all need to be sanded once they are more then a couple days old so brush marks get sanded off. Leaving bare metal is a no no any where but in the desert. Look at any project put up by Iron Workers and they are all painted with red oxide industrial epoxy primer. Then covered by a good top coat you will acheave the best rust protection possible.
Back in the 70's/80's you'd see many a Ironworkers drivin around work trucks in red primer..they were most likely the old true red oxide primer we used in steel fab shops...lol..
It's not what it used to be because of EPA now..used to be it took practicly 2 guys to lug around a 5 gallon bucket of red oxide primer..it has a load of zink and lead in it..tough stuff......now it wieghs about the same as any other industrial primer...
Its been a LONG time since i seen "red iron"...thats where the nickname came from by the way...
Now they use a 2 part industrial epoxy primer/sealer that is most of the time just gray..
That old red oxide primer would take weeks to fully cure..if your old enough,,you'd remember ironworkers walkin around with red paint stains on all their clothes all the time because the paitn was still "sticky" when brought on the job...on the plus side of that,,it made it much easier to climb iron when it was still sticky...lol
Step one... Put on nitrile gloves. Do not touch it with your grubby paws. Blow it off thoroughly. Get a gallon of PPG's CRE. Its a corrosion resistant epoxy that is bulletproof. Spray two coats on it and let it dry. If you intend to do body work sand it with 180 grit , be sure to watch cut throughs. Blow it off, wax and grease it, let it air dry then proceed with bondo.
Just as a few mentoined..i'd use a decent quality primer sealer as you do the work...
Barry Kives of SPI was a body/paint man before he started the company,and still does do the work on top end jobs..
I've met him persoanly at a few local swap meets/rod shows and talked to him on the phone when i've had questions of his primers and clears..
You really can NOT beat his products for the prices,top end clears and primers for a fraction of the price compared to others..
His problems he has seen with Ospho is not the product it self,it's the problem with the high percentage of people who use it never correctly nuetralizes it after applied..it leaves an acid film and later down the road causes the primer over it to bubble up under the paint..very costly mistake..
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