Painting raw steel and raw aluminum - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-05-2013, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
nixer600
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Painting raw steel and raw aluminum

I purchased metal cloak front fenders (steel with a aluminum inner fender)
Poison spider rock sliders
Smitybuilt corner guards (I removed the powder coating)

What's a good way to prep the metals for paint? What type of primer should I use?

It will be painted hummer yellow most likely single stage.

Thanks I just don't want to paint this and have the paint flake off in a year.


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post #2 of 5 Old 11-06-2013, 04:06 AM
5-90
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Sand metal to remove any tool marks. 180g is acceptable, 240g is better. 320g is overkill for all but exotic paint jobs.

Use a good primer - a good etching primer is better. Allow 24-48 hours for primer to cure.

Use quality colour coat. A primer alone will not prevent rust! Recall that primer is a porous coat, in order to help the paint adhere to the metal surface. Several light coats will always be better than one heavy coat - follow the paint's instructions for multiple coats. Allow 24-48 hours for final cure.

Clearcoat if desired, it's usually advisable. A light wet-sand with something like 600-grit is helpful for if you want to bring out the shine, else don't bother. Follow similar instructions as for the colour coat.

But, consider the use of primer to be mandatory Getting a good colour coat to stick to bare metal ain't gonna happen - and that's going to fair guarantee your "flaking off in a year" concerns (it probably won't even last a year. More like three months. Maybe.)

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post #3 of 5 Old 11-06-2013, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
nixer600
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Thanks allot. That covered all I needed to know.


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post #4 of 5 Old 11-06-2013, 08:51 AM
222Doc
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you can use a non-sanding self etching primer too, to skip the full dry out and re-sand of the primer. follow the instrcutions though if you let it dry to long it will need sanding anyway.

after sanding the metal and its cleaned i have used metal prep it was kind of a alcohol and acid. just wipped it on and the metal reacted by bluing, this keeps the unseen surface rust from getting a hold, bare metal will start to rust the day it was made, exposed to air/oxygen. the things i have done that way seem to have lasted a life time. paint was/is hard as nails. but it was all Imron and then it was all lead too.

prep is everything.

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post #5 of 5 Old 11-07-2013, 03:49 PM
magnetman
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Not a big fan of etch primers. They were much better in the past vs current products

Use a 2 part epoxy primer for best adhesion and corrosion resistance.
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