Painting my half doors - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-17-2017, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Painting my half doors

Ok, flash times on paints.


Primer...10 to 15 minutes after each wet coat according to the instructions.



QUESTION: Can you wait longer after the last coat? say overnight?



Now custom mixed acrylicurethane paint matched to my Jeep and then installed in rattle cans: Flashtime 5-10 minutes, dust free 15-20 minutes, tape: 8 hours, cure:18-24 hours, polish 24 hours.



Say you spray two coats of primer and wait as directed. Do you have to lay down your urethane paint immediately? Can you wait overnight? Can you do the first coat and then wait until the next day?




Clear coat in rattle cans;flash time 5-10 minutes touch free 20 minutes @ 70F polishing 12 hours @ 70F That one seems to be straight forward, just follow instructions.


What I am wondering is once the process begins can you suspend painting at a given point? Or, do you have to complete the entire job up except for the clear coat?


Now urethane paint. Do you have to spray all coats in one day?


How soon does the first coathave to be done after the primer is set to go?


Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-17-2017, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
Ok, flash times on paints.


Primer...10 to 15 minutes after each wet coat according to the instructions.



QUESTION: Can you wait longer after the last coat? say overnight?



Now custom mixed acrylicurethane paint matched to my Jeep and then installed in rattle cans: Flashtime 5-10 minutes, dust free 15-20 minutes, tape: 8 hours, cure:18-24 hours, polish 24 hours.



Say you spray two coats of primer and wait as directed. Do you have to lay down your urethane paint immediately? Can you wait overnight? Can you do the first coat and then wait until the next day?




Clear coat in rattle cans;flash time 5-10 minutes touch free 20 minutes @ 70F polishing 12 hours @ 70F That one seems to be straight forward, just follow instructions.


What I am wondering is once the process begins can you suspend painting at a given point? Or, do you have to complete the entire job up except for the clear coat?


Now urethane paint. Do you have to spray all coats in one day?


How soon does the first coathave to be done after the primer is set to go?
If you wait and do not recoat within the flash time you will likely have to wait for coats to cure and sand between coats so you have a mechanical bond between the coats.

The best and easiest I've found is if you can wait for a day that you can dedicate to paint is to prep the night before (tape, tarps, final sand, etc) and then paint the next day starting in the morning laying each coat once the coat before flashes. You'll save a lot of time over sanding between coats. This will create a strong chemical bond between the coats.

Building the right way and rolling out in late 2018.
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-17-2017, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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If you wait and do not recoat within the flash time you will likely have to wait for coats to cure and sand between coats so you have a mechanical bond between the coats.

The best and easiest I've found is if you can wait for a day that you can dedicate to paint is to prep the night before (tape, tarps, final sand, etc) and then paint the next day starting in the morning laying each coat once the coat before flashes. You'll save a lot of time over sanding between coats. This will create a strong chemical bond between the coats.
Good information.


Ok. I decided to prime (2 coats) with a flash time taken. Then I did 'wet' first coat waited 15 minutes. Did a lighter coat #2 waited again about 15 minutes. Third coat same as #1 & #2 coats. Will lightly sand in the AM and clean, wipe, then spray two or three clear coats tomorrow. The base coats came out real good! I could not see one flaw...but then again I got old man's eyes!! I'm just looking for a decent looking finish. This not a SEMA show quality bazillion dollar paint job! After I clear coat I will post a few pictures of the finished doors.

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-17-2017, 04:17 PM
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Good information.


Ok. I decided to prime (2 coats) with a flash time taken. Then I did 'wet' first coat waited 15 minutes. Did a lighter coat #2 waited again about 15 minutes. Third coat same as #1 & #2 coats. Will lightly sand in the AM and clean, wipe, then spray two or three clear coats tomorrow. The base coats came out real good! I could not see one flaw...but then again I got old man's eyes!! I'm just looking for a decent looking finish. This not a SEMA show quality bazillion dollar paint job! After I clear coat I will post a few pictures of the finished doors.
Biggest mistake to make when sanding is to use too fine of a grit sandpaper. Read the instructions. Each paint and coat type will adhere to a different level of scratches. Meaning don't use 2000 grit on the base coat (aka color) before clear, if the instructions for the clear call for less. Also use a tack rag after sanding each coat (lightly drag it across the surface. Don't rub it in.)

I've found 600 grit to be undetectable on a base coat with clear over top. Also the clear may go on cloudy, but it'll dry clear.

Once the clear is cured, use 1500-2000 grit sandpaper on a sanding block and dip it in a bucket of water and wet sand your door. This will make it look all scratched and you'll think you just ruined your door. Now use a DA buffer like a Porter Cable 7424XP with a medium to deep cutting pad (or use a microfiber towel and buff by hand, but trust me when I say that buffing by hand is a killer.) and a compound for deep scratches like Meguiar's M105. This will produce the best possible finish for the level of work it takes. Sure you can get absolute show room quality but it'll take more products and more time. The first time you go out wheeling you'll never know the difference anyway.

Building the right way and rolling out in late 2018.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-17-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Biggest mistake to make when sanding is to use too fine of a grit sandpaper. Read the instructions. Each paint and coat type will adhere to a different level of scratches. Meaning don't use 2000 grit on the base coat (aka color) before clear, if the instructions for the clear call for less. Also use a tack rag after sanding each coat (lightly drag it across the surface. Don't rub it in.)

I've found 600 grit to be undetectable on a base coat with clear over top. Also the clear may go on cloudy, but it'll dry clear.

Once the clear is cured, use 1500-2000 grit sandpaper on a sanding block and dip it in a bucket of water and wet sand your door. This will make it look all scratched and you'll think you just ruined your door. Now use a DA buffer like a Porter Cable 7424XP with a medium to deep cutting pad (or use a microfiber towel and buff by hand, but trust me when I say that buffing by hand is a killer.) and a compound for deep scratches like Meguiar's M105. This will produce the best possible finish for the level of work it takes. Sure you can get absolute show room quality but it'll take more products and more time. The first time you go out wheeling you'll never know the difference anyway.

great information toximus!


The paint says use 1500 or finer and wet sand the paint finish to get rid of any imperfections etc. I can't see a one just yet. Will go over the doors with a bright light in the AM.
The clear coat says flash off time 5-10 minutes. I'll probably do three coats. Then I'll take a good look at the finish. I'll probably use your directions to finish the clear coat. I'm looking for a nice finish,. I'm not doing a concourse restoration on these half doors! Thanks again.

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-17-2017, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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A few pictures. The camera has some specs of dirt on the lens so it seems Sorry!
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Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-19-2017, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Here is what the finish looks like up REAL close. Question, I think I am ready for some clear coat. I have to wet sand this finish I would assume. How smooth does the paint have tom be?
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-19-2017, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
Here is what the finish looks like up REAL close. Question, I think I am ready for some clear coat. I have to wet sand this finish I would assume. How smooth does the paint have tom be?
I find that there is actually texture behind the clear from the factory. At least there is on my 2004. Since you're not blending coats, I'd just sand it lightly with whatever grit the clear suggests, tack, and shoot clear. If the can doesn't list a grit call the manufacturer of the clear coat.

You're almost there!
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-19-2017, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by toximus View Post
I find that there is actually texture behind the clear from the factory. At least there is on my 2004. Since you're not blending coats, I'd just sand it lightly with whatever grit the clear suggests, tack, and shoot clear. If the can doesn't list a grit call the manufacturer of the clear coat.

You're almost there!
I was thinking the exact same thing. The clear coat has some ever so slight leveling capabilities. If I hit this paint with 1200 wet and didn't get too aggressive and end up with what I would call half the 'roughness' these real close up pics show, I would be good to go.


I will do at least two clear coats. Then hit them with maybe 1500 wet again and them buff out.

I want the paint to stay on. I am not looking for SEMA quality paint, just decent looking half doors for my JK. Well before I get to wet sanding etc.


I need to figure out what I will use for a DA buffer. I do not want to spend big bucks since this is already getting costly and it will be a tool that will just sit there afterwards.


I have a 90 angle attachment for my corded drill and could by a DA attachment... OR could I get away with a Harbor Freight $30.00 special??? Got to figure that out before I go any further.

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-19-2017, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Like this unit. With a coupon it is $50.00 add another $30.00 for pads compound and I should be good to go.


https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-5...ODkwNyJ9%0D%0A

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-19-2017, 11:01 AM
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I've heard that the HF unit functions fine but doesn't have great life.

Once you're done buffing your doors, you can use the DA over the entire Jeep and any friends cars too! It gets addicting!

Building the right way and rolling out in late 2018.
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-19-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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I've heard that the HF unit functions fine but doesn't have great life.

Once you're done buffing your doors, you can use the DA over the entire Jeep and any friends cars too! It gets addicting!

I would never buy a HF tool and expect it to be as good as a regular professional...and much more expensive, tool. That being said. I have a Chicago Electric angle grinder I have had for some time. I use it occasionally as a BU grinder to my Royobi unit. I have had it for a the best part of a decade and have used it a couple of dozen times. It still work fine for my needs.
I have a can of this stuff. Will that be good enough to buff out the clear coat before I polish it?
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Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #13 of 15 Old 07-20-2017, 12:30 AM
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I would never buy a HF tool and expect it to be as good as a regular professional...and much more expensive, tool. That being said. I have a Chicago Electric angle grinder I have had for some time. I use it occasionally as a BU grinder to my Royobi unit. I have had it for a the best part of a decade and have used it a couple of dozen times. It still work fine for my needs.
I have a can of this stuff. Will that be good enough to buff out the clear coat before I polish it?
Sorry, I don't know. Since it doesn't say it does buff out scratches, I'm going to guess it won't. But if you have no other use for it won't hurt to try.

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post #14 of 15 Old 07-20-2017, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I don't know. Since it doesn't say it does buff out scratches, I'm going to guess it won't. But if you have no other use for it won't hurt to try.
They way I see it the compound does the job. The RO unit just gives it motion. We will eventually find out!

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-05-2017, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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One door after color coat is done. Second one is after clear coat and light compound with a RO polisher/buffer.
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Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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