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-   -   Painting CJ exterior "Sebring Red" (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f260/painting-cj-exterior-sebring-red-1547288/)

KMA 07-10-2013 09:35 AM

Painting CJ exterior "Sebring Red"
 
Hello,

I'm planning to paint the exterior of my son's '83 CJ7 the original Sebring Red (3B). Inside the tub will be coated with gloss black Monstaliner, and it will be undercoated with Chassis Saver and Eastwood internal frame coating. I been doing a lot of research and trying to put together the right plan for my first full paint job. I've bought the HF two gun kit that includes a 1.8mm tip for spraying primer. I'm in the process of cutting out a good amount of rust in the tub, and welding in new 18ga sheet metal. I think I'll buy a new driver's side front fender instead of trying a difficult repair job on a damaged section. I will use the old fender to test my spraying techniques prior to shooting the Jeep. Here's what I think I need:

- 1 gallon of single stage acrylic urethane
- 1/2 gallon of epoxy primer (is this enough?)
- wax/grease remover
- sanding blocks/paper
- goggles/respirator

After prepping the surface, I planned to spray the epoxy primer over all bare and painted metal. Do I need to sand after this step and re-clean? I figured the primer would help with adhesion but also expose any glaring oversights in preparation. I will be shooting it in my garage, and I'm putting two filtered window fans on one side and openning a window on the other to create some positive pressure.

Any other tips/recommendations/suggestions? How about where to buy quality paint/primer for a decent price? (Budget is definitely a factor here!) Thanks in advance for your help.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/507/9v4b.jpg

ATVRACER76 07-12-2013 07:46 PM

You got the right idea.. If you are going to primer everything, you have to resand it all before you lay the paint down.. 320 grit for sanding the primer will be good.. Use a scotchbrite to get in the hard to reach areas.. If its at all possible, you want to try to get to the backside of anywhere you do patch welding and spray some anti corrosion spray so it doesnt rust from the inside out later..

As for where to get paint, napa sells dupont at select locations.. Single stage is generally cheaper but id shy away from it since your doing a red paintjob.. Itll be pink after a few years of sun.. Unless you get some clear coat and spray it over the top of the single stage.. I did that to my jeep when i painted it.. Your other option is to do a basecoat/clearcoat but either way you go you will want to clear over the color..

Most important thing is to take your time and prep is key when getting a good finished product.. Good luck and post pics of your progress..

KMA 07-13-2013 06:47 AM

Thanks for the feedback! I really appreciate your help. I was considering the PPG Shopline single stage acrylic urethane since I have a local dealer and it seemed like a good balance of cost/performance. You mentioned the red turning to pink over time, but I was under the impression that the new urethane paints were much better than acrylic enamel as far as fading and durability. Is that not true in your experience?

Another question: If I only use the epoxy primer on exposed metal/filler, and use a primer sealer over the rest of the scuffed/cleaned existing paint, would that reduce the amount of sanding needed before spraying? Most of the paint is in good condition from a adhesion standpoint. I thought I read you can reduce some epoxy primers so they can be used as a sealer too.

Thanks again for your comments,
Kevin

ATVRACER76 07-13-2013 10:55 PM

Yes, you can just primer the bare metal/bondo spots.. Just let that dry up and sand those spots with 320, clean everything good, and use a sealer surfacer and spray the color over that.. It will be much less sanding to go that route..

The ppg single stage will work too.. I honestly dont use single stage that often unless it is for airplane parts and i use imron by dupont which is very expensive but way durable.. Even with that paint i still see some color fade on older planes and they use imron in the factory.. Most colors would probably be ok without clear over top but something about red turning pink and black turning chalky makes me say to go ahead and clear over it.. Then there wont be any doubt that it will stay nice and red for ya..

KMA 07-15-2013 08:53 AM

Thank you for the input. It was very helpful and appreciated.

Pacfanweb 08-03-2013 10:52 AM

Imron might never fade on a Jeep. It's the most durable paint you can put on it, and it is a bit pricey, but check Ebay....I've found it pretty inexpensive there.

And honestly, at my local paint supplier, Imron is a bit less than the Dupont Basecoat/clear coat in the same amount.

You can find cheap base/clear, for sure, but you get what you pay for.

I'm not putting Duplicolor or Summit Racing paint on mine, though. :)

I can tell you some stories about Imron's toughness. It'll withstand brake fluid. Seen it.

Forget sanding and buffing it unless you do it in the first few days. It's literally almost as hard as a rock. Doesn't need wax. Impervious to acid rain. Easy to spray.

If you use it, you need a REALLY good respirator....it is VERY bad for you to breathe.

swirve 08-07-2013 06:53 PM

Nothing wrong with the shop line single stage, ive used tons of it.


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