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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitClayton Off Road - Come see us at these events!

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Unread 04-26-2013, 12:50 AM   #16
ashland82391
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Well, I've started tearing everything down in preparation of paint. I was only able to work on it for about an hour today but I'm still happy with the progress. I should be painting tomorrow :-)



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Unread 04-26-2013, 08:19 AM   #17
Neuner-9R
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This look may not be for everyone but I rolled on Rustoleum High Heat Satin Black without sanding afterwards. Very happy with the results and a lot of people stop to compliment. It was so easy and cheap, I wouldn't mind if I had to redo it every 1-2 years. Hell, might even change the color that often for something different. Sorry, it's a little dusty in these photos. Any line marks or swirls aren't from the paint, it's from rain & pollen.
jf1.jpg   jf2.jpg  
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Unread 04-26-2013, 08:30 AM   #18
ashland82391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuner-9R View Post
This look may not be for everyone but I rolled on Rustoleum High Heat Satin Black without sanding afterwards. Very happy with the results and a lot of people stop to compliment. It was so easy and cheap, I wouldn't mind if I had to redo it every 1-2 years. Hell, might even change the color that often for something different. Sorry, it's a little dusty in these photos. Any line marks or swirls aren't from the paint, it's from rain & pollen.
Super sharp man! Hope mine comes out nice!
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Unread 04-26-2013, 08:36 AM   #19
Neuner-9R
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Thanks!

A guy the other day complimented the looks and then asked if was some new type of bedliner or industrial coating. I just had to laugh. He had a perplexed look on his face when I told him it was rolled on Rustoleum BBQ paint.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 10:09 AM   #20
rjbruzan
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This is what is great about this type of thread. It shows the results of different products and application styles. All of us have different amounts of money to spend on our projects,Different expections and varing skill levels. I may not use these methods on my low mileage extra clean Rubicon but my high mileage daily driver that needs a little clean up may get rolled RustOpium bumpers and underside.


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Unread 04-26-2013, 01:25 PM   #21
ashland82391
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Well here's the first coat. Already looks really good although there a bunch of tiny bubbles in it. they should come right out when i wet sand it though.

Sanded with 220



Wiped down with paint thinner



In to the paint booth :-)



First coat, no wet sand





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Unread 04-26-2013, 02:32 PM   #22
a_Swellguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashland82391
Well here's the first coat. Already looks really good although there a bunch of tiny bubbles in it. they should come right out when i wet sand it though.

Sanded with 220

Wiped down with paint thinner

In to the paint booth :-)

First coat, no wet sand
Did you get the bubbles out? Where they there immediately or did they just appear?
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Unread 04-26-2013, 07:16 PM   #23
ashland82391
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Did you get the bubbles out? Where they there immediately or did they just appear?
Haha wish i was that fast! I have to let it totally dry before i can hit it with sand paper. But about 5 hours of drying I've noticed the majority of the bubbles have gone away.
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Unread 04-28-2013, 09:07 AM   #24
LV2DRFT
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I've been doing this on my TJ as well. It works great! http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/9...ation-1324173/

A couple words of advice. SANDING PROPERLY and HARDENER are the secrets! Go to rolledon.forummotion.com for all the info.

After you finish your second coat, sand 400, 2 coats, sand 600, 2 coats, sand 600, 2 coats, sand 1200 and polish. Use a rotary to polish, Harbor Freight sells a cheap one for $40 that works fine. Use the foam pad it works fine. Use Meg's Ultimate Compound.

I wish somebody would have told me this when I did through trial and error... It is CRUCIAL that you sand until EVERYTHING is the same dull color. If you have ANY glossy spots when sanding, you have to sand more before putting down your next 2 coats. If you don't you will end up with blemishes. To get these blemishes out later on in your process, you will end up sanding these areas down all the way back to the base coat, which is not fun and a lot more work. Also I'd STRONGLY suggest using enamel hardener if you can get your hands on it. Go to a Farm / Tractor store. Without hardener, if "the right kind of bird poop" lands on your paint, it will eat right through to your old clear coat. It takes at least a year of baking in the sun to get the same level of chemical resistance you could obtain by mixing in hardener. If you haven't used hardener yet, don't worry, just use it for the last 4 coats or so.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 06:19 PM   #25
ashland82391
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Painting is all done and I'm happy with the results. Just need to do a final wet sand and buff.

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Unread 05-08-2013, 05:31 PM   #26
dukeryder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post
Painting is all done and I'm happy with the results. Just need to do a final wet sand and buff.

Your Jeep looks real good!

I'm considering this method for painting my YJ, I've done 2 Acrylic Enamel spray on jobs and they were a disaster and I spent like $2-300 on each of those...
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Unread 05-08-2013, 05:42 PM   #27
ashland82391
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Originally Posted by dukeryder View Post

Your Jeep looks real good!

I'm considering this method for painting my YJ, I've done 2 Acrylic Enamel spray on jobs and they were a disaster and I spent like $2-300 on each of those...
Go for it! I couldn't be happier with the outcome, especially considering it was a role on job! :-)
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