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post #31 of 46 Old 11-01-2010, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
grassfeeder
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thanks for the input......I hope to get started this weekend with the epoxy primer.....

I'm look into hoses to use with the gun i order from the TCPglobal site linked above.......

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post #32 of 46 Old 11-01-2010, 08:16 PM
lanecj5
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The hose we used was your 3/8" standard 50' air hose.I was told to always use a water seperator at the compressor and then a disposable at the gun.Got a leak at the gun and had to retape "seal it" so it wouldn't
drip when reaching over the hood.It was good advice.We used self etching primer in a spray can but when
I do the next one i'll tape it up and shoot a good sealer primer w/ my gun as many here have already rec-
ommended.I'll load more pics tonight.
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post #33 of 46 Old 11-01-2010, 08:29 PM
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Backyard project

Here are some other pics..this is acrylic enamel,no clear.The interior is rustoleum oil base 2 coats.Shot w/ H/F gun 1.4 tip.
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post #34 of 46 Old 11-06-2010, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
grassfeeder
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big issues.....I used a 2K Sealer recommended by my local store - said to work with where my XJ was currently at. Now, i'm left with this in various areas.....What to do now?

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post #35 of 46 Old 11-06-2010, 07:30 PM
Ironworker709
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Was it an Epoxy primer?..or just a 2k sandable primer?..BIG difference.

Epoxy primer is used not just for a sealer,but it is also compatible to just about anything,so it gives you a good bond to existing coatings and then anything over it.

Looks like a compatibility issue to me.

If it was me..i would sand that thing down and rid any of the new coatings put on,,then a true good quality epoxy primer for a base,,then go from there..
You MIGHT get away with just a smooth sand and epoxy..

That's the biggest problem with rattle can paints and also buying a vehicle that was already started..never know exactly what was used and the actual quality of the job already done

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post #36 of 46 Old 11-06-2010, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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the local store I went to recommended and sold me MB180 sealer & MH165 - 5:1 mix ratio.

it took very well to some areas and obviously not at all to other areas.

I'm not in a position to be able to strip this down to bare metal.
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post #37 of 46 Old 11-07-2010, 08:46 PM
lanecj5
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Backyard Project

Grassfeeder, Ironworker is right about sanding it down to rid the body of anything that may keep it from bonding.We had to sand the whole body on my sons cj5.I was glad i did now...Again this is ONLY the second vehicle I've ever painted...So I am no pro.But here's what I did,Used orbital sander on entire vehicle 240 grit,completed any bodywork needed,before priming it
I cleaned the body,wiping every inch of it before priming.Sprayed it with primer,using rattle can "self etching primer".Let the primer/body work shrink....I waited a week,shouldve waited longer.HandSanded w/ a soft block
and 400 grit,cleaned body again,reshot w/ primer.Let cure for a week.
Wet sanded w/ 600 grit until very slick.Washed the vehicle w/ clean water.The day I painted we cleaned the entire body tack cloth then w/ paint/body surface cleaner using a lint free cloth.There were very few areas I had to go to the metal on.If it has a decent finish on it now you should be able to get the slick finish off your current paint and prime from there.
Just be sure its very clean before you do...I did learn that. Good Luck
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post #38 of 46 Old 11-07-2010, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I spent the entire afternoon sanding it again. So as of now, here is what it looks like.....I'll take a tack cloth to it and make sure all the dust is off of it and then spray it with an epoxy primer.

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post #39 of 46 Old 11-11-2010, 02:52 PM
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Backyard project

So hows it coming....Give us an update.
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post #40 of 46 Old 11-11-2010, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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woah! easy with the meat!

I haven't had any time this week. priming attempt #2 will begin early Saturday morning.....followed by paint in the around later in the day. one step to a time though....
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post #41 of 46 Old 11-13-2010, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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primer is sprayed and went on well once I found the right amount of reducer to use. Letting it dry for a bit then I'll go over it in spots if I need to. I'll be starting the paint later today if all goes well......
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post #42 of 46 Old 11-16-2010, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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OK, used about half a gallon and sprayed it, damn, orange peel is NOT cool stuff. I started the wet sanding process to see how it would look but clearly I didn't build the paint up enough cause I wet sanded through in some spots.

So, I think I need to spray the 2nd half of the gallon and build up the paint and then just go down the very long road of wet sanding out the orange peel.....

I am not looking forward to this and am about ready for it to all be done.

I now know why people charge so damn much to do it.....
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post #43 of 46 Old 11-16-2010, 09:22 PM
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Either up your air pressure or lower your material knob and thin out the product a little more. Just finding the right settings takes a few tries but once you find the setting it should flow nice and easy.
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post #44 of 46 Old 11-16-2010, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
grassfeeder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StupendousMan View Post
Either up your air pressure or lower your material knob and thin out the product a little more. Just finding the right settings takes a few tries but once you find the setting it should flow nice and easy.
How far would you recommend I sand down the current product? Should I not worry about it and just build up the paint and wet sand out the orange peel at the very end?
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post #45 of 46 Old 11-16-2010, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics along the way.....shows the wet sanding process - went as low as 800 up to 1500.




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