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Unread 10-24-2010, 11:29 PM   #1
grassfeeder
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paint issues

So, I just picked up my '92 Cherokee Sport for a case of beer.

Here is what it looks like now:


PO had sprayed it with DupliColor Sandable Primer:
Dupli-Color :: Sandable Primer

I'd like to finish it off....I've got this compressor in my garage:
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

So.......is my compressor good enough to tackle the job? and am I going to have to prime over with an epoxy primer? what type of paint job should I attempt?

I've never painted a vehicle before and I'm not expecting showroom results - just something that may look presentable from 5ft away or so. The Jeep really won't see much off-road these days and is garaged nightly.

Ideas gentleman?

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Unread 10-25-2010, 01:51 PM   #2
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anyone??
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Unread 10-25-2010, 10:20 PM   #3
freeskier93
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33 gallon tank will be fine. I would be weary about leaving that primer on but it really depends what is underneath it. If it's over metal then I would take it off and re spray epoxy, then a 2k primer and finally single stage urethane.

If he primed over the old paint then I would leave it. It would then be up to you to spray a 2k primer or just paint over it with color.

I used PPG Omni, it's a single stage urethane, which means there is no clearcoat. Unless you wan't to spend a lot more money and get that perfect shine, I would stick to single stage. It's easier to work with and as long as you keep it waxed it will still look great. Plus you must get wax on it otherwise water will stain the paint. Ask me how I know, this next weekend I will be spending polishing the the whole Jeep.

It cost me just under 300$ for a gallon and required thinner and hardener.
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Unread 10-25-2010, 11:30 PM   #4
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33 gallon tank will be fine. I would be weary about leaving that primer on but it really depends what is underneath it. If it's over metal then I would take it off and re spray epoxy, then a 2k primer and finally single stage urethane.

If he primed over the old paint then I would leave it. It would then be up to you to spray a 2k primer or just paint over it with color.

I used PPG Omni, it's a single stage urethane, which means there is no clearcoat. Unless you wan't to spend a lot more money and get that perfect shine, I would stick to single stage. It's easier to work with and as long as you keep it waxed it will still look great. Plus you must get wax on it otherwise water will stain the paint. Ask me how I know, this next weekend I will be spending polishing the the whole Jeep.

It cost me just under 300$ for a gallon and required thinner and hardener.
Thanks for the info! Luckily I know the original owner who bought this thing new in '92. The original paint job had faded and oxidized like all others and it sat on the property untouched for 4 years. He was going to attempt to rehab it and I think got tired of it. The few parts that were a bit rust were sanded down and primed with this stuff:

Dupli-Color :: Self-Etching Primer

The entire XJ was given two coats of that stuff and then two coats of the sandable primer. The body actually looks pretty straight, of course he got overspray in all the door jambs but what are you going to do?

Should I bother knock it down with something like 400 or 800 prior to paint or just leave it as is and paint? Would it make a difference in the outcome?

I appreciate the suggestion on the single stage, I think that's the route I'm going to go. I'll be sticking with the original color so black it'll be.

Hopefully I can pick up some paint this week and get started this weekend.

Oh the joy.......
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Unread 10-26-2010, 12:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassfeeder View Post
Thanks for the info! Luckily I know the original owner who bought this thing new in '92. The original paint job had faded and oxidized like all others and it sat on the property untouched for 4 years. He was going to attempt to rehab it and I think got tired of it. The few parts that were a bit rust were sanded down and primed with this stuff:

Dupli-Color :: Self-Etching Primer

The entire XJ was given two coats of that stuff and then two coats of the sandable primer. The body actually looks pretty straight, of course he got overspray in all the door jambs but what are you going to do?

Should I bother knock it down with something like 400 or 800 prior to paint or just leave it as is and paint? Would it make a difference in the outcome?

I appreciate the suggestion on the single stage, I think that's the route I'm going to go. I'll be sticking with the original color so black it'll be.

Hopefully I can pick up some paint this week and get started this weekend.

Oh the joy.......
It's really up to you if you want to spend the extra time and money to make sure the panels are perfectly straight. IMO you should go on ahead paint. Though you do need to sand it so the paint has something to grip, but a light wet sanding of whatever grit the paint instructions say. It's varies depending on how much the paint fills.

Here's the thread I made documenting my paint project. I will tell you when I did it, I had a TON of body damage and rust. The previous owner did a crappy job of fixing it when he rolled it. So, keep in mind due to the excessive amount of body filler needed, I chose to keep it light at a cost of the body not being straight. My advantage though, is I can slap armor over it all and nobody will know.

Good luck! If you have any questions feel free to post them.
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Unread 10-26-2010, 12:50 PM   #6
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I'm confident in the paint and using a single stage - my only concern now is the having the paint stick to the rattle can primer??
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Unread 10-26-2010, 05:15 PM   #7
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I'm confident in the paint and using a single stage - my only concern now is the having the paint stick to the rattle can primer??
That's a tough call. Most paints bond well to anything, but painting with the same brand is best. I don't know where your buying your paint from, but you should try and find a local store. They could give you a good answer on wether or not you will get good adhesion with their paint.
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Unread 10-26-2010, 05:57 PM   #8
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That's a tough call. Most paints bond well to anything, but painting with the same brand is best. I don't know where your buying your paint from, but you should try and find a local store. They could give you a good answer on wether or not you will get good adhesion with their paint.
I did just that actually.....they said as long as it wasn't rustoleum I should be in the clear....sand down the current with 320-400 and be good to go.

I'll be picking up the paint this weekend.
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Unread 10-26-2010, 07:16 PM   #9
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What gun are you going to be using? With the cfm on that tank only being 5 @ 90 psi, make sure you pick up the right gun. Just make sure you prep really well. I would try to avoid metallics and pearls in single stages unless you are spraying in a booth. You can wet sand those. Also make sure you have a good respirator and suit to spray with along with gloves.
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Unread 10-26-2010, 08:08 PM   #10
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What gun are you going to be using? With the cfm on that tank only being 5 @ 90 psi, make sure you pick up the right gun. Just make sure you prep really well. I would try to avoid metallics and pearls in single stages unless you are spraying in a booth. You can wet sand those. Also make sure you have a good respirator and suit to spray with along with gloves.
would this gun work?
High Volume Low Pressure Gravity Feed Spray Gun

I'm going with a regular black paint, no crazy metallics....

gloves - check
suit - check
respirator - check
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Unread 10-26-2010, 10:05 PM   #11
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would this gun work?
High Volume Low Pressure Gravity Feed Spray Gun

I'm going with a regular black paint, no crazy metallics....

gloves - check
suit - check
respirator - check
Yeah, it will be fine. When spraying you won't be able to do continuous spraying. You will also drive yourself crazy trying to get the correct PSI set at the regulator, just have something to test with until you get a good spray. It took me a couple minutes of spraying to figure it out. The worst that can happen is you have to sand it down and do some more coats.

Some nitril gloves are the best things you can buy. I went half my paint job without using gloves and my hands were stained pink, grey, and blue for weeks.
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Unread 10-26-2010, 11:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassfeeder View Post
would this gun work?
High Volume Low Pressure Gravity Feed Spray Gun

I'm going with a regular black paint, no crazy metallics....

gloves - check
suit - check
respirator - check
That gun will not work well at all with that little compressor,it is only 5@90 PSI and the gun's workin CFM is 12..more than double needed for it to work right..you'll get some uneven spraying,globbing of paint..runs trying to keep up..etc etc.Even keepin it down at a 40 PSI will still not be enough to spray a whole car/truck

I've seen those exact compressors..my neighbor has one and did exactly what you are trying to do with it on a tractor,,that tractor ended coming to my house to get stripped,primed and top coated again because i have all the right equipment/tools to spray 1/2 descent because it looked like it was sprayed with a rattle can because the compressor couldn't keep up.

That little compressor will kick on an off constantly TRYIN to keep up with the air usage an HVLP uses,causing uneven spraying,plus everytime it runs it will create more heat in the tank,causing more moisture and heat in the lines.

Anytime settin up a gun and testing for a pattern..you'll find out it usualy takes ALOT more air pressure than the recommended settings from the manufacturer,those are there for federal laws so they can legaly produce and sell it within the federal limits(they have to be able to run at a 10 @ the cap.NOT the input pressure,that is MUCH higher to get the actual 10 @ the cap),but in reality they spray MUCH better at a higher pressure..so that's another downfall on that little compressor.

Those HF "purple guns" are actualy a proven GREAT gun for medium usage or the home hobbiest for the little price..i actualy had that same one but gave it a buddy learning paint..plus i still have the 9.99 on sale Mini HVLP for doing door jams,it has the side cup on it to adjust in any position and it spray AWESOME for 9.99..lol.

As far as what primer is already on it..do a good 220 sand and see how it holds up,,,but personaly i would get rid of it and spray an Epoxy just for insurance it WILL hold up and seal under the top coat
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Unread 10-27-2010, 12:04 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
33 gallon tank will be fine. I would be weary about leaving that primer on but it really depends what is underneath it. If it's over metal then I would take it off and re spray epoxy, then a 2k primer and finally single stage urethane.

If he primed over the old paint then I would leave it. It would then be up to you to spray a 2k primer or just paint over it with color.

I used PPG Omni, it's a single stage urethane, which means there is no clearcoat. Unless you wan't to spend a lot more money and get that perfect shine, I would stick to single stage. It's easier to work with and as long as you keep it waxed it will still look great. Plus you must get wax on it otherwise water will stain the paint. Ask me how I know, this next weekend I will be spending polishing the the whole Jeep.

It cost me just under 300$ for a gallon and required thinner and hardener.
It's not the size of the tank,it's the capacity of the compressor pump.
The bigger the tank,,the longer it will hold untill it needs to kick on and refill,but it will never keep up if the tool being used has a higher working CFM than the pump can handle.

Waxing any paint(SS or 2 stage) too early causes serious problems..the paint has to cure and breath,most being a month to 3 months BEFORE any wax/sealant applied..always read tech sheets on the paints and follow them exclusively.
Thats why anytime you go to a body shop and have a job done they ALWAYS tell you to NOT wax for a few months.

I've never seen a paint stained by just water,unless you let it set outside before the paint cured enough overnight or didn't use the correct activator ratio and it took too long to cure...etc

I've used Omni SS and base coat/clear coat several times(now called "Shopline") and never had a problem with "water stains" as long as it sat in a dry enviroment overnight at a minimum.That's the first i've heard that one
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"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

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Unread 10-27-2010, 12:53 AM   #14
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well, ****! since my compressor sucks - is there one - that's affordable - that I could purchase to do a doable job?
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Unread 10-27-2010, 07:18 AM   #15
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If i was on a tight limited budget,i'd probably go with this one..12.8 CFM @ 90 PSI and 14.5 CFM @ 40 PSI.
I've actualy read a few places where they claim these US Generals are actualy Bel Air compressors all except the Pump itself..Bel Air is a well known industrial grade compressors for body shops.
3.5 HP, 60 Gallon, 130 PSI Compressor
You could sell you're little one even to recoup some of the money on that one.

I used a Porter Cable 60 gallon with only 10.5 CFM @ 90 PSI for years for paint and running air tools and worked fine untill the pump wore out after about 6 years,ran 40-50 PSI for painting with a Devilbiss and SATA gun and never had a problem with keeping up...then bought an Ingersoll Rand,,so with the pressure and CFM ratings on that one you should be good to go to paint that,plus you'll be upgrading to a much more suitable compressor to have around the garage for future use..even if you sold you'res for maybe 100.00 you only actualy paid a lil over 300.00 for a much more suitable compressor for work.
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Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...http://www.ironworkers.org/becoming/careers.aspx
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