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Unread 06-24-2013, 12:11 PM   #91
JK-Sport-Gal
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Hubby hasn't got a chance! I'm practicing on a metal table first to show him the technique and finish. It's so darn hot in a garage in Texas during the summer. Ugh!

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Unread 06-27-2013, 08:37 AM   #92
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Am I crazy for wanting to do this to my 2012? I'm getting sick of the Dozer color, so I would only be doing this for a color change- there's no damage to the current paint or anything like that. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Don't do it. Get some colored sunglasses
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Unread 07-09-2013, 06:37 PM   #93
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That looks great... I bet nobody even knows it's rolled!

I did mine with rusto, engine enamel, and rusto bedliner spray...

Before:





After:



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Unread 07-09-2013, 07:13 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by LV2DRFT View Post
That looks great... I bet nobody even knows it's rolled!

I did mine with rusto, engine enamel, and rusto bedliner spray...

Before:





After:



Looks good!
When I tell anyone how I painted my YJ they call me a liar....I take that as a compliment!
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Unread 07-09-2013, 07:28 PM   #95
rjbruzan
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I recently put new floors in my old XJ. I needed some Rust-Oleum so I ran over to Menards and what did I see? RUST-OLEUM TINTED IN OVER 100 COLORS. Under 9 bucks a can for tinted colors. No metallics but the one I guessed on was real close to the stock color only a solid color.

Ron
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Unread 07-09-2013, 07:45 PM   #96
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I recently put new floors in my old XJ. I needed some Rust-Oleum so I ran over to Menards and what did I see? RUST-OLEUM TINTED IN OVER 100 COLORS. Under 9 bucks a can for tinted colors. No metallics but the one I guessed on was real close to the stock color only a solid color.

Ron
You are one of the lucky ones. I've searched far and wide and could only find rusto in the basic 10 or so colors. Rusto Topside (marine) is even more limited from my experience. A link to where one could buy these would be very helpful for the members...
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Unread 07-09-2013, 07:48 PM   #97
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Menards. Not Ace or Home Depot yet.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #98
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has anyone used a hardener with the rustoleum rust stop paint? If so, what mix did yall use? Also how long did you wait between coats without the hardener? With?
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:43 PM   #99
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has anyone used a hardener with the rustoleum rust stop paint? If so, what mix did yall use? Also how long did you wait between coats without the hardener? With?
A synthetic enamel hardener used with rustoleum enamel would be added either 8 oz per gal (1:16) or 16 oz per gal (1:8)

You're really not going to see dramatic difference in recoat time. What you will see is that overnight with hardener is going to be cured much harder to fingernail denting than without hardener. With this type of enamel being slow dry you still want to wait minimum 24 hours before recoat and more if you intend to do any scuffing between coats
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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:06 PM   #100
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How would one decide on 1:16 or 1:8 mixture? Ans if I want to do two coats, wet sand, two coats, wet sand etc. I should wait a min of 24 hours. Is this correct? And the hardener won't have an effect on recoat time, just am effect on durability?
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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:19 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
How would one decide on 1:16 or 1:8 mixture? Ans if I want to do two coats, wet sand, two coats, wet sand etc. I should wait a min of 24 hours. Is this correct? And the hardener won't have an effect on recoat time, just am effect on durability?
I was giving you a generality of how synthetic hardeners are used. Check specific products chosen for directions on usage levels

With this type of project you just need to wing it with recoat, sanding etc. You need to check previous coats when they are ready to scuff and or recoat. You're not working in a controlled booth environment like a body shop so conditions and dry times will vary based on temp, humidity, etc

The thinner you roll a coat the sooner it will be ready for the next step. The heavier you apply the longer it will take. You have less control of thickness when you roll vs reduced for spray so there is no cut and dry answer to this. Make sense?
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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:21 PM   #102
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There will be slight variance in dry with or without hardener for recoat but the greatest benefit of the hardener will be added durability

This is way diff that spraying acrylic enamel or urethane paints
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Unread 08-12-2013, 11:51 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
How would one decide on 1:16 or 1:8 mixture? Ans if I want to do two coats, wet sand, two coats, wet sand etc. I should wait a min of 24 hours. Is this correct? And the hardener won't have an effect on recoat time, just am effect on durability?
I did mine every 6-12 hours with no problems.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 07:06 AM   #104
laybackman
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has anyone used a hardener with the rustoleum rust stop paint? If so, what mix did yall use? Also how long did you wait between coats without the hardener? With?
Drying time is quick since the coats are made with thinned paint. But how hard the paint gets probably gets accelerated some, but I am no expert concerning this type of chemistry.

Is the chemistry compatible would be a good question.

Can a paint formulation fail because of hardener being added that the chemist didn't think would be added to this type of paint?
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Unread 08-13-2013, 07:58 AM   #105
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Compatibility of hardener with the paint is the main concern when using a paint that was not sold with specified use of a hardener. A small sample mix with some teaspoons will tell you fast if you're going to see any issues

Hardeners made for acrylic enamels are slightly diff than hardeners made for synthetic enamels. A rustoleum enamel is basically a slow dry synthetic. The synthetics have a decent amount of mineral spirits in them and some hardeners will kick out or gel up if mixed with mineral spirits.

I'm pretty sure that Tractor Supply sells a hardener that would be compatible with rustoleum. Not sure if rustoleum has one or if it's sold in retail outlets
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