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Unread 10-16-2012, 08:28 PM   #1
laybackman
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My rolled on paint job

So I decided the YJ needs a new coat of paint. The hood, windshield and left front fender were replaced with used parts some time before I bought it. The paint job was failing on the nose. The clear coat was peeling real bad and light rust was showing up on the hood. The windshield had a lot of chips and rust spots on it also.

The paint job was decent from the front doors back until I started making some changes. I did a tire carrier move off of the tailgate and it ended up where the rear fold and tumble seat used to be before I removed that. Then I added a new third brake light and moved the license plate to the tailgate. I also moved the gas tank filler to where the TJ has their gas filler. I also did a LED flush tail light and reverse light modification. I swapped out the stock tail lights for 4” LED light and I added small led rear side markers.

So I next looked at my options concerning paint. Get a professional to paint it or paint it myself. I did some thinking on that subject while additional clear coat fell off the hood of the YJ. Finally I decided that that the roll on paint job option was the way I was going.

I bought several packages of different sized real fine wet sandpaper (which a never used), one package each of 4” and 6” dense foam rollers along with the plastic roller pans and half dozen each of 1” and 2” foam brushes. Now I decided on what paint to use. I decided on Rustoleum Marine Coatings Topside Paint. I went with the Sand Beige. I bought three quarts and I bought one gallon of odorless mineral spirits.

I had done some extensive renovations on the full doors and they were removed for that beforehand. So I removed the tail gate and windshield frame also. That left the body with nothing hanging off of it except for the lower windshield hinges where they attach to the body. If it wasn’t getting painted it got removed. I removed what was left of the clear coat on the hood with a single edge razor. That took 30 minutes. The hood was in the worst shape.

Next I washed everything with a little soap and much water. Then it got blow dried using my leaf blower. Then it sat out in the sun for the rest of the day. Later that day it went into the garage. Next day I wiped it down with odorless paint thinner before sanding.

Sanding……Here is where this paint is so forgiving. I used my 5” RO sander used for woodworking with 220 grit sand discs and did the hood. I used very little pressure and let the sand paper do the work. I did not want to go to the metal. I just wanted to ‘break’ the paint gloss. Unfortunately it went to the primer in some spots. The hood was a mess so it got lightly block sanded with 320 grit wet paper. It came out good. I decided to do the same to the rest of the YJ.

Paint to thinner ratio…… Many go with a 50/50 ratio. I got to do some experimenting on the windshield frame which is all angles then the doors/tailgate. I had some issues with how thin the paint was. So I ended up with a paint thinned by about 33%. Everything got three coats except the hood which needed four coats. I did not sand anything in between coats.
Final analysis: I cleaned the garage before I started the painting but this garage is dusty since it is used for everything I do. And there is an overhead rack that my ladders, fishing rods, floor cardboard, etc are stored, sitting over the YJ. The finish is clear and quite shiny but has some ‘dusticles’ stuck in it but I am quite pleased with the overall outcome.

Note: those round edged rollers can get into many of the contours like the windshield, door frames and tailgate. The foam brushes worked real well in the areas like where the lower windshield meets the cowl.

The problem is now the interior has too many colors and clashes with the exterior. I have the green/orangy-tan Sahara interior. The upper dash pad and door panels along with the steering column and steerring wheel are orangy-tan also. I cleaned the dash pad and steering column then masked everything off. Next I sprayed everything with Rustoleum primer then black Rustoleum paint for plastic. I even did the door panels while they were off the doors. They all came out really nice. I bought a Stock YJ steering wheel that is kind of gray in color with a black horn button. That is my next swap-out.

Finally the YJ got assembled, and adjusted. I replaced the stock Sahara flare with 6” TAG flares. I’m happy with the results. Now I have to paint the bumpers because they look crappy!

B4 pictures;















Ist Coat;











2nd Coat;









3rd Coat;









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Unread 10-17-2012, 07:07 AM   #2
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Good job and a nice write up.
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Unread 10-17-2012, 11:01 AM   #3
GilNewJeeper
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I want to do the same, I bough Durabak Olive Drab paint and wanted to rolled it but not sure which rolls to use. I rattle canned it last year and it held good but Durabak its a better paint. Which rolls density do you recommend?
Thanks
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Unread 10-17-2012, 11:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GilNewJeeper View Post
I want to do the same, I bough Durabak Olive Drab paint and wanted to rolled it but not sure which rolls to use. I rattle canned it last year and it held good but Durabak its a better paint. Which rolls density do you recommend?
Thanks
I bought these at Home Cheapo both the 4" and the 6" I used the 6" ones for the most part.

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Chicks dig me.....Fish fear me

Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
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Unread 10-17-2012, 01:17 PM   #5
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Thanks a lot
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Unread 10-17-2012, 01:30 PM   #6
laybackman
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Another nice thing about the use of this type of paint is repairs to the paint job. I have several spots on the doors upper frames that required some sanding and touch up. I had a few runs....Hey I got bad eyes, bad lungs and little patience!

I hit the areas in question with some 320 grit after scraping the runs off with a single edge razor held perpendicular to the run. Then hit it with two coats of the thinned product which was left over using a foam brush.

I had two cans left of paint. One was almost full with paint that was cut. I just shake the crap out of it before popping it open and it is just fine after a minute or two of settling down. The other can had about 1/10 of a can left and it skinned up very fast.


Next project is the hard top. I bought some paint today that looks real good up against the body color. Once I paint it I'll add a few pictures of the HT to this thread.
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Chicks dig me.....Fish fear me

Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
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Unread 10-17-2012, 08:12 PM   #7
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Awesome Job!!!...

Thanks for the write up too!

If you don't Mind..rjbruzan suggested this become a sticky and i totaly agree..do you mind?
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Unread 10-17-2012, 08:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
Awesome Job!!!...

Thanks for the write up too!

If you don't Mind..rjbruzan suggested this become a sticky and i totaly agree..do you mind?
I do not mind at all!
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Chicks dig me.....Fish fear me

Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
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Unread 10-23-2012, 12:14 PM   #9
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Hard top paint choice

I have been thinking about the HT color. It was the factory spice color and I found it to be a bit to 'orangy' now that the body color was very light. My first thought was to go with satin of flat black. That would have worked but the wife thought that a color that was very close to what the spice looked like but a bit less 'orangy' would be nice.

So off to Home Cheapo to look at what the had on the shelves. I grabbed a quart of Rustoleum Painter's Choice Nutmeg # 240284 latex based paint. It is very close to the stock color but has little if any 'orangy' in it.

I cleaned the top with a little soap and much water. I let it dry out in the sun for a day then painted it the next day. I used a 4" roller and a foam brush. One coat later and I am happy with the sutble change to the top color.





And with my JF sticker!



Up close.

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Chicks dig me.....Fish fear me

Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
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Unread 10-23-2012, 12:24 PM   #10
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New Sahara decal

Next was the Sahara decal. I found a guy on ebay that sells them. His has green trim and he offered the 'white' version. I bought a set from him. They came in yesterday and went on today. Now 'Joop' is gone and the thoughts of doing a custom hand painted Sahara logo is out of my system.
Here is what I had in mind.



What I was told about my art skills was...... I would end up with a big black smudge where that logo would go.

Anyhow here is what they look like on.







Next project is re-doing the half doors I bought and some sort of rocker cover angle iron thingy
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Chicks dig me.....Fish fear me

Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
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Unread 10-25-2012, 06:48 PM   #11
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How did that come out so great? I've seen traditional paint jobs come out nowhere near that quality.
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Unread 10-25-2012, 07:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sxysouthtx View Post
How did that come out so great? I've seen traditional paint jobs come out nowhere near that quality.
That's an easy one to answer.....'cause I did it!! Naw that's BS.....

I have not buffed this paint job out.....and probably won't either!

Over time I figure the entire surface will get rubbed and knock off any 'dusticles' in the paint. The hood and top of the fenders are the only two places where they exist anyway.

Actually Rustoleum paint has excellent properties to include a great shine and a hard finish. Keep in mind that it is made for brush or roller application also.
Now add thinning it down with oderless mineral spirits which allows the paint to level out longer and dry a bit slower.

I will not compare this paint job to a good professional spray paint job, but my neighbor said to me that if he did not watch me during this whole process he would never believe that I used rollers and Rustoleum paint to re-paint my YJ. He already did his pick up truck!

But this is one way to get a decent paint job for small money. I had some 'holidays' in some of the 'nooks and crannies' and one run. I fixed the run by scraping the run flat with a single edge razor blade then I lightly sanded it. Then I feathered out the area with two light coats of paint and bang! The run was gone. The 'holidays' in the n's & c's got repaired with a
1" foam brush. Very forgiving process.

I have to believe that the darker color you go with the more meticulous you have to be with preparation.

I would experiment with the doors or tailgate first if anyone decides to paint their vehicle.

I do not think that Rustoleum is the only paint that would give you great results, but it is cheap enough and you can get it anywhere.
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Chicks dig me.....Fish fear me

Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
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Unread 10-30-2012, 11:41 AM   #13
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I have been looking at lowes and Home Depot and have only found a rust oleum products labeled as high performance protective enamel which is oil based. I lt also does not come in a ton of colors. At the store they tell me they can't tint it to any color I want which I thought you could. Any suggestions and/or more details on the type of paint? Oil based or water based etc? I assume it also has to be labeled as "gloss"?
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Unread 10-30-2012, 11:52 AM   #14
rjbruzan
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Tractor Supply sells Valspar brand which has more colors.The hardner they sell will improve the job also. Ace has there brand too. Try a paint store they might be able to tint for you.

Ron
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Unread 10-30-2012, 12:00 PM   #15
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At lowes I found a valspar gloss royal blue premium enamel that is acrylic. I think that would do the trick?
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