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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Paint and Body > Monstaliner Jeep floor kit?

Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

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Unread 07-18-2013, 09:59 AM   #16
airwin10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadsmasher
Awesome! You'll love it.
Did you keep the lid on the can between coats?
Yea I put the lid on between coats and waited about 4 hours. When I reopened it it had a thin film on it that I pulled off. That wasn't really a problem though. The problem I had was the liner I had in the tray would start to dry before I could put it all down.

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Unread 07-18-2013, 10:05 AM   #17
airwin10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDPARTSDUDE

Did you use the wire brush to scuff your paint? What kind if wire?

Looks great!
I did. I actually bought two for my power drill. Is got a bit for your drill on one end and a round wire brush on the other end. I bought a 3" and a 1". The 1" was probably the most useful. I tried not to take all the paint off though. I think if you go to deep you have to put a primer down.
image-1254395073.jpg

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Unread 07-18-2013, 12:38 PM   #18
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airwin10 View Post
Yea I put the lid on between coats and waited about 4 hours. When I reopened it it had a thin film on it that I pulled off. That wasn't really a problem though. The problem I had was the liner I had in the tray would start to dry before I could put it all down.
Were you using a narrow or wide roller pan?
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Unread 07-18-2013, 05:49 PM   #19
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I have always coated over the oval rubber plugs but if you getting new ones and need to drain I would just roll over the open holes. You will still get the plugs in when liner is cured. As far as threaded holes to bolt back seats, etc.. just coat over them. Bolts will go back with no issues if a little liner runs in them (as long as you don't wait weeks)


Quote:
Originally Posted by HDPARTSDUDE View Post
Shoot! Already placed my order last night. But thanks! And thanks for the help, seriously!

So I do think I want to keep the holes accessible incase I want to hose it out but I'd like to know how to go about both choices. If Im lining over the wholes as you said you have done more often than not, did you just line over the rubber plugs sealing them in? And if I leave them in should I leave a metal edge for the plugs to hook onto? Thirdly, am I over thinking this?! lol. Sorry, just trying to think ahead so installation goes smooth.

Today it was too darn hot to work much but I got some help getting my hard top off which should make things easier. I ordered JK oval plugs and new hardtop fasteners. And I'm took the mirror brackets off my full hard doors and removed the mirrors so I can get those brackets powder coated. I also got out the seat belts and removed some of the cage covers. Those were dirty!
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Unread 07-18-2013, 08:18 PM   #20
HDPARTSDUDE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
I have always coated over the oval rubber plugs but if you getting new ones and need to drain I would just roll over the open holes. You will still get the plugs in when liner is cured. As far as threaded holes to bolt back seats, etc.. just coat over them. Bolts will go back with no issues if a little liner runs in them (as long as you don't wait weeks)
Good to know, thanks!
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Unread 07-21-2013, 07:48 AM   #21
HDPARTSDUDE
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Should receive my kit tomorrow! I have everything out of the tub. I've sanded out the rust, scrubbed the entire tub with Dawn and then with MEK. I've primed my bare spots. Pretty sure I'm ready for the first coat.

The kit doesn't come with a brush, should I get one for those hard to reach areas like behind the roll bars? Will brushed areas look alright?
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Unread 07-22-2013, 08:26 AM   #22
HDPARTSDUDE
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Got it! Came with a brush just looks like I need a roller pan and a roller extension. I' now wanting to take the tailgate off which I wasn't planning on. It's a high visibility area and I want it to look good so I might try getting it off today.

image-317256807.jpg
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Unread 07-22-2013, 10:40 AM   #23
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buy a narrow roller pan only
1077088_528348120565005_1441425363_o.jpg  
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Unread 07-23-2013, 09:35 PM   #24
HDPARTSDUDE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
buy a narrow roller pan only
Thanks!

I'm thinking about doing the top edge and lip of the tub, the surface my hard top sits on. Wondered if anyone had tried it? I think it would look cool when the top was off. Would I need to wait for the surface to cure before reinstalling the hard top? Would it be so thick or textured I could cause a leak seal on the side or at the windshield? Will I have enough in my gallon kit to even do it?
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Unread 07-23-2013, 10:06 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDPARTSDUDE View Post
Thanks!

I'm thinking about doing the top edge and lip of the tub, the surface my hard top sits on. Wondered if anyone had tried it? I think it would look cool when the top was off. Would I need to wait for the surface to cure before reinstalling the hard top? Would it be so thick or textured I could cause a leak seal on the side or at the windshield? Will I have enough in my gallon kit to even do it?
Many people do this and I have done it myself on a few jeeps. Does not cause any issues and the seal is still fine.

I would wait at least 1 week if not 2 weeks minimum to cure before putting top on.

Roll 1st coat thin to conserve as much as possible for 2nd coat and you will have enough w/1 gallon to do the rails also
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Unread 07-23-2013, 10:57 PM   #26
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Sweet!
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Unread 07-23-2013, 11:08 PM   #27
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One of my favorite pics, Turquila + Pyroclastic

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Unread 07-25-2013, 10:57 AM   #28
HDPARTSDUDE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
One of my favorite pics, Turquila + Pyroclastic
Nice!
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Unread 07-28-2013, 05:44 PM   #29
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image-2437367590.jpg

Do I leave this in place and tape off the ends of the screws? It's like a nut plate for my upper tailgate hinge. I don't want any issues getting the hinges off down the road.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 05:55 PM   #30
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Just coat over it the bolts will strip off the Monstaliner if you ever need to remove them
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