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Unread 05-24-2010, 10:18 AM   #16
gtome
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Originally Posted by KKiowaTJ View Post
I would use a roloc pad or scotch-brite pad on the end of a pistol grip grinder. But you dont want to strip the paint off until you locate all the fixes that need done, How will you see small dents and pin holes? Its alot easier for a novice to work one problem at a time so you dont get over your head. But the steps listed are point out what to do and what not to do. Theres a million ways, The steps listed are as good as anyone else's. Another good thing to keep away is silicone, Tire spray, Aerosol sprays etc will contaminate it 50 yards away, It gets airborne and it will cause nothing but problems. Good luck it not too hard and fun when you start to see the results you want.
Hey man what part of Iowa are you from? I Just moved from there a couple years ago. I was North of Burlington, and South of the Quad Cities.

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Unread 05-24-2010, 11:11 AM   #17
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Hey man what part of Iowa are you from? I Just moved from there a couple years ago. I was North of Burlington, and South of the Quad Cities.
You have to be ****ting me!

My dad grew up near Burlington and New London and we still have family up there, pending on your age you guys may know eachother. It is a small place!

Jake
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Unread 05-24-2010, 11:16 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by gtome View Post
There are sme good points being made here. I was just offering what I feel is the best solution to a problem.

I know the kinds of challenges he faces, I live in Daytona Beach. This can be complex, but there is only one way to learn, and that is to get out in the garage and do it. I also restore cars in a garage, no fancy paint booth here.

There are other options to the Picklex by the way. Ospho will do the same job and it is more affordable.

My very first paint job I read and read and read. I had a one car garage, very few tools, a HF gun, a couple sanding blocks and a DA. It was a 1965 VW Bug. I too could take it to a show and probly win it as well.

I think trying to do little spot repairs is going to take longer and give less than great results. But really I guess it is whatever the OP is comfortable with.

Dryseals: I am really curious what variables you are talking about with epoxy primer? I personally would never use etch primer anymore, its just too likely to react with something else that had acid in it. Epoxy primer, to me, would be a must with anything over a quarter size spot of bare metal.

I guess really to sum up what I am talking about is: You may spend months and hundreds of dollars.... not meantion all the time you will have in it. What if there is rust forming? Then in 6 months, you start getting bubbles and all that work is down the tubes. You are going to be sooo close to having the thing stripped that it would only take a few more hours of work to have it bare. You can strip a car in panels too. Do a section, Opspho, or Picklex it, and its good to go. Move to the next section, and do the same. When its all bare, and covered in Ospho, you knock off any remaing scale, clean it good, and put a couple coats of epoxy on it. Then lay say 3 coats of high build 2k primer on, and start blocking. Few days with a long board and the thing is laser straight and ready for paint (depending on how straight the body is of coarse). If you do it in little areas, you will be trying to blend, and spot primering....etc...

Too bad the OP wasnt just a little closer, i would be glad to lend a hand
I'm at work, but I understand your side. I had a Dupont automotive paint rep in the family. 6 months of classroom training before ever being let loose. Epoxies were in full swing then. They had a lot of adhesion problems, very sensative to enviroment being used. Now they have the DTM types and each one is different in it's application.

I'm old school, use what I know works well for me and is simple. I may need to give them a second chance. It's like petting an old dog, you put your hand down, he bites, so your reluctant to put your hand there again.

As for th OP, since we are both willing to help out. We might find out what kind of equipment he has on hand and move forward from there. Either method should work as long as he stays within the system.

So which epoxy is it that you use? We want to avoid mixing systems at all costs.
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Unread 05-24-2010, 05:25 PM   #19
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You have to be ****ting me!

My dad grew up near Burlington and New London and we still have family up there, pending on your age you guys may know eachother. It is a small place!

Jake
I didnt really grow up in the Burlington/New London area, I was 30 miles North of there and didnt really go there much.

Dryseals:
Thats strange? I have never had, nor heard of adhesion problems with epoxy? I swear that stuff would stick to water!!

I have used the PPG epoxy DP40LF (and used it as a sealer as well) and the Sherwin Williams NP75 if I remember right. I guess I did use a Dupont epoxy once before, but I never used it again and couldnt tell you what it was. Seemed to work fine for me though.

By the way, I wasnt bashing your method, it certainly has it place. And I have stripped a car with a 4" blade too. In fact it is the car im doing next. It is very old paint and came off pretty easy that way. I will be stripping it the rest of the way, but not with a blade. It is a super solid 56 Chevy! Im stoked for that one!

Im sure with the help of members here, we can get him going in the right direction. The biggest thing i have seen is to just get out in the garage and do it. Too many get scared and never make it out.
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Unread 05-24-2010, 07:13 PM   #20
Dryseals
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I didnt really grow up in the Burlington/New London area, I was 30 miles North of there and didnt really go there much.

Dryseals:
Thats strange? I have never had, nor heard of adhesion problems with epoxy? I swear that stuff would stick to water!!

I have used the PPG epoxy DP40LF (and used it as a sealer as well) and the Sherwin Williams NP75 if I remember right. I guess I did use a Dupont epoxy once before, but I never used it again and couldnt tell you what it was. Seemed to work fine for me though.

By the way, I wasnt bashing your method, it certainly has it place. And I have stripped a car with a 4" blade too. In fact it is the car im doing next. It is very old paint and came off pretty easy that way. I will be stripping it the rest of the way, but not with a blade. It is a super solid 56 Chevy! Im stoked for that one!

Im sure with the help of members here, we can get him going in the right direction. The biggest thing i have seen is to just get out in the garage and do it. Too many get scared and never make it out.
A buddy of mine came by the other day to ask about Sherwin Williams, have I ever used it. I haven't, but he said the line up was pretty good and the cost below the big guns. I work for one of the big guns, not their paint line but in their petro chemical plant.

I was going to suggest to the OP that he look into the color he wants from Sherwin Williams. They are every where and sticking to a recipe would help him.

I'm wanting to add some things to the Jeep, some extra colors, beach machine, needs to look like a beach buggy. So I may take a spin by there tomorrow and see what they have.

We still don't know what kind of equipment the OP has..................
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Unread 05-24-2010, 09:33 PM   #21
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I used the SW Dimention line only. I havent ever used their good stuff. The paint is a little thin and takes an extra coat or two. But I just got a bright red that was $80 a gallon (freekin cheap!). It is a 2:1 mix but the color looks great, and i ended up putting 5 coats on (4 would have been enough, but it is a little dark where I paint and I wanted to be sure of good coverage). So it does take more paint, but at those prices, one or two more coats is no biggy. Just for comparison, the better brand of SW paint in the same color was a tad over $600 for a gallon of just the paint.

I talked to the rep after the paintwork was done, and he said lots of guys cut the reducer in half for the first coat, and the coverage is much better that way.

Also I think the Dimention clear was like $56 a gallon.... including hardener!!! (freekin cheap again!) I was very impressed with the flow of this cheap stuff.

We got 2 gallons of paint and 2 gallons of clear with hardener and reducer, and it came in at just over $300 total. That is unreal to me!! I had to get so much because I was painting a 66 Impala, all apart, undersides and jambs....etc... and I ended up using most of it. I did get a bug in the hood that I resanded, blended a little color on , and re-cleared the whole hood, probly have a pint left over. That Impala is huge by the way!!

I dont think i have the post count to put a pic up, but i could show you where in the jambs and door edges, the clear flowed soo well that it still looks like its wet, and not even a hint of peel. Amazing! And this was done with a HVLP gun, which are notorius for spraying peel in clear. I have a DeVillbis "Plus" compliant gun, that lays clear much better than my Sata, but I dropped it and damaged a part of it, and needed to clear ASAP.

I totally agree, I never mix brands... ever. Pick a system, and go with it.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 02:15 PM   #22
KKiowaTJ
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Hey man what part of Iowa are you from? I Just moved from there a couple years ago. I was North of Burlington, and South of the Quad Cities.

I justed moved frm Burlington down to outside Farmington. We have livestock and we had more land down here to make it easier. It also makes it better when i want to go test a new part, Less than a mile and I'm in a creek or the timber.
But yeah small place, I have friends a that have moved all over the state. But most have stayed around Danville/New London/Mediapolis area. Most of us outside of town as we all have toys and need to tune them, Race cars, Motocross, Etc.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 02:30 PM   #23
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We still don't know what kind of equipment the OP has..................
I have an old air gun of my father's, a compressor, and garage to use as a makeshift booth. That's about it for application purposses.

Jake
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Unread 05-25-2010, 09:33 PM   #24
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Watch the humidity. That will kill it before you even spray. Wait or spray at 3-4am or late at night when the sun has been down. Even some of the body work process is sensitive. But being from Iowa humidity is nothing new in Florida Good luck
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Unread 05-26-2010, 08:21 AM   #25
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I justed moved frm Burlington down to outside Farmington. We have livestock and we had more land down here to make it easier. It also makes it better when i want to go test a new part, Less than a mile and I'm in a creek or the timber.
But yeah small place, I have friends a that have moved all over the state. But most have stayed around Danville/New London/Mediapolis area. Most of us outside of town as we all have toys and need to tune them, Race cars, Motocross, Etc.
I have a good friend that works at Deery brothers, he is the service manager. If you ever need a hookup let me know. He is a real stand up guy and he has some really good techs (or did anyway).

I lived in Grandview, and in fact still own a house there.
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Unread 05-26-2010, 08:23 AM   #26
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Watch the humidity. That will kill it before you even spray. Wait or spray at 3-4am or late at night when the sun has been down. Even some of the body work process is sensitive. But being from Iowa humidity is nothing new in Florida Good luck
Oh and I wouldnt recommend painting in the dark. The light will draw bugs like crazy!! 7am it is still pretty cool, but the bugs will be less of a problem. But I just painted another car last week and it was at 2pm, and about 95 degrees out that day. The problem I have the most, is NOT sweating in the paint!
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Unread 05-27-2010, 09:21 PM   #27
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Oh and I wouldn't recommend painting in the dark. The light will draw bugs like crazy!! 7am it is still pretty cool, but the bugs will be less of a problem. But I just painted another car last week and it was at 2pm, and about 95 degrees out that day. The problem I have the most, is NOT sweating in the paint!

Yeah i guess a small garage would have alot better chance of bugs. I never had a problem, But would get there around 4am and get everything going but wouldn't really shoot till 6 give or take just in case we ran out of product or needed something car quest was open.
I worked at deery brothers when i was in high school. The only bad thing about that place, He is has a million and will let you know it, He always came first. He used to go out to our shop and cuss and whine throwing trash cans and whatnot, Then tell us to pic it up. Hes a real piece of work. Most who work for him are good help that are over worked and paid job minimum, But they use him as experience and a starting off point. They have done a couple jobs for me in the past and i paid dealer price, But drove off and never looked back.

Yeah i remember when grand view was wiped out a couple years ago by a tornado, I was in wapello hauling balls back to town. What did you do, Relocate from tornado's to hurricanes?
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Unread 05-28-2010, 07:34 AM   #28
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Haha!! You know I was home working in the garage the day of the tornado. I was sick It was crazy! I was in the garage grinding, had all the windows in the house open, and I hit my finger with the grinder. So I stopped to see the damage to my finger, and I noticed it was raining horizontally. I ran in the house to close my windows, saw limbs falling and stuff, but nothing too bad. When I came back outside, I saw people looking down the street. SO I asked what they were looking at, and they just pointed. I walked out into the street, and could then see that one block down, there were houses missing

Damn thing just missed me!

So I have been here in Florida for just over a year, so far so good, but I aint skeerd!
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Unread 06-08-2010, 10:33 AM   #29
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HIJACK

Know Lacquer is worse, but want to do it since never painted befoe and will wheel the vehicle. Don't mind redoing in a few years.

Is 1991 OEM paint enamel, and if so how much do you remove before lacquer primer? I know they hate each other. Using Duplicolor paint shop system for my first shoot, if I do well enough in a few years I will shoot it again with the better stuff.

What kind of prep for lacquer / Primer for over what I think is enamel?
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Unread 06-08-2010, 04:51 PM   #30
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I would use epoxy. Why are you going to use lacquer?? Other methods are just as cheap but produce better and easier results.

I would 180 grit before whatever primer you use.
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