Thansk for the suggestions folks, still looking into things currently.
Troy, I had planned to use my angle grinder with a wire wheel on it for stripping the paint off.
Hope this helps.
I give this out all the time. Some may not apply.
But you'll get idea.
1. Wash with detergent. Don't eat chicken wings in the garage and always keep your hands clean from grease, oil, and wax,
2. Wipe down all surfaces to be painted with silicone/wax/grease remover.
3. Do steps 1 and 2 before ever thinking about sanding. Ignore this and you will grind contaminates right into the panel.
4. Remove paint where body work must done. If you remove all paint you might forget where the dent and dings are. 100-180 grit, but there will be 1000 opinions about this.
5. Do all body repair
6. All the paint does not have to be removed if it is in good shape. Your call. Mask areas where you don't want covered by primer.
7. Prime the entire surface to be painted. No need to prime everything if there is paint that is in good shape. I usually do prime everything
8. Depending on the color of primer, say gray, buy a spray rattle can of black sandable primer to be used as a guide coat. A guide coat is a dusting of the surface with a contrasting color so that when you sand you know the surface is flat when the contrasting color is all gone.
9. Now you need to make a choice,,, is this going to be a slam job or do you really want it flat and smooth like a pro job? I would start now with 220 wet knowing that much of the primer applied will come off. I used the paper wrapped around a paint stick.
10. When your guide coat is gone, or mostly gone, you'll find some areas that may need a little more prime to build up low spots. Prime away.
11. Switch to 320 Wet if you have it or 400 and use the paper in a paint stick again. If you did your body work correctly you should be done using the stick.
12. Prime any areas that are at bare metal or fiberglass and complete the sanding process using 400 wet wrapped around a soft hand sanding pad. No finer the 400. Remove old masking tape and paper, apply new.
13. You are ready to use a primer sealer,,, follow the directions. A good primer sealer will do two things. It will remove the possibility of bleed through from former paint if it exists,,, usually red will be the worst offender. Sealer will also reduce the sand scratches visible after the paint cures. It will usually hide up to 320 grit.
14. Use compressed air and a tack cloth to remove dust that has landed on the vehicle, paying close attention to getting dust out of crevases.
15. Mix paint per manufacturers instruction.
16. Spray paint per manufacturers instruction. Single stage Urethane or Acrilyc Enamel will take 2-3 coats, I lean toward 3. No sanding between coats unless you have a run and plan to use a clearcoat. (Hopefully you're not spraying metallic your first time)
17. If you want to have a show finish, apply clear coat per manufacturers instructions. Let dry for a week. A profeshional may move to the next step the next day.
18. Water sand with 1000 grit using paper around a soft sanding pad, then move to 1500 wet, the 2000 wet.
19. Buff with a compound recommended by the paint manufacturer, or your personal preference. Remember to point a power buffer away from corners or you'll burn it off and you will be moving back to somewhere around step 13.
20. Sit back and think of your mistakes, I gaurantee you've made some. I still do after 20 years.
21. Enjoy and plan your next paint job,,, there will be others.