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Unread 10-05-2009, 09:43 PM   #1
hockeyplayer21
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hvlp gun set-up help

I bought a cheap HVLP gun from harbor freight that came with an air regulator. I have a hose and a compressor that can run it. Do i need anything else? I remember reading something about "air drying" piece that goes either on the compressor end or the gun end of the hose. Could someone help me out and let me know what i need?

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Unread 10-05-2009, 10:30 PM   #2
2000jeeper
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I always put my filter at the compressor end of the hose.

You will love the HVLP gun. I sprayed the front end sheet metal with one for the first time here recently and loved it. Mine is also gravity feed. Much better control over syphon feed
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Unread 10-05-2009, 10:33 PM   #3
2000jeeper
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Also make sure you have the right pressure setting at the gun. Use the regulator they supplied with the gun.

Are you using it for primer or top coat or both.

My settings for primer was 40 psi at the gun (regulator) and 45 psi for top coat. But each paint is different
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Unread 10-05-2009, 10:43 PM   #4
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what ever you do, be sure to run a inline filter. The HF stuff typically get oil in their lines and once you get some oil in your material, you're done. as stated, keep you pressure right at or around the above mentioned pressure settings. Try to do a spray out card to test your pattern and check to see if the material is grainy. Also be sure to use the proper tips. I like a 1.6mm for primer, and a 1.4mm for base and clear. But the best thing is to just start painting stuff and getting accustomed to the gun settings. Good Luck and let us know if you run into any snags (sags)
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Unread 10-06-2009, 08:50 AM   #5
hockeyplayer21
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Should i have a seperate air hose just for the hvlp gun? from using an impact wrench, won't some of the oil potentially be in the hose still? i'm not looking to spend a ton of money on stuff right now, but if its neccessary i can get a new hose. any idea of what kind of inline filter to use? i'm somewhat new to air tools. i'm painting a set of full doors, not color matching but my amber fire tj didnt look good with dark green full doors, and i'm also in the process of swapping out damaged body parts, and wanted the colors to "somewhat" match. i have an amber fire tub with black grill, hood, windshield frame, cowl, (grill, hood, windshield frame and cowl aren't installed yet) and black primered fenders, and soon to be black doors so it will somewhat match. In the next year or two i'd like to repaint my jeep to the original amber fire color or corvette atomic orange.
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Unread 10-06-2009, 11:51 AM   #6
2000jeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeyplayer21 View Post
Should i have a seperate air hose just for the hvlp gun? from using an impact wrench, won't some of the oil potentially be in the hose still? i'm not looking to spend a ton of money on stuff right now, but if its neccessary i can get a new hose. any idea of what kind of inline filter to use? i'm somewhat new to air tools. i'm painting a set of full doors, not color matching but my amber fire tj didnt look good with dark green full doors, and i'm also in the process of swapping out damaged body parts, and wanted the colors to "somewhat" match. i have an amber fire tub with black grill, hood, windshield frame, cowl, (grill, hood, windshield frame and cowl aren't installed yet) and black primered fenders, and soon to be black doors so it will somewhat match. In the next year or two i'd like to repaint my jeep to the original amber fire color or corvette atomic orange.
I use a dedicated air line when i paint. When done i disconnect and roll it up and connect the 2 ends together. But thats just me.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 10:50 PM   #7
turpehar
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Check this out.

Paint Gun Perfection- Rod & Custom Magazine | Rod & Custom Magazine Article at Automotive.com
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Unread 10-14-2009, 03:39 PM   #8
Camarofreak86
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Hey there!
I work for the government painting F-35 prototypes, tanks...turrets and all the other good **** you see on TV. and YES i have done plenty of the 50-60's era cars.
Here is one thing that not one of the people mentioned to you, Your air pressure AT THE GUN, is ALL DETERMINED BY WHAT KIND OF PRODUCT YOU ARE USING.
EX. Polyurethane or Enamel or Epoxy or lacquer or waterborne.
The difference is that each chemical does and WILL have a different atomizing pressure. so for instance, for 15% thinned out polyurethane I would spray at 30PSI AT THE GUN, ( if you go lower it will seem seedy on the panel) 20% thinned Epoxy I would spray at 18psi, and so on and so fourth. Waterborne you generally will reduce 175% with De-ionized water. If anymore more questions feel free to message me!
-Joshua
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