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Unread 12-03-2009, 11:19 AM   #1
sebastian22
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How to prep and paint my hood

Well, I have a small air compressor and a harbor freight spray gun. How exactly would i go about prepping and painting my hood. What type of paint, etc. Never painted anything other than with a rattle can.





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Unread 12-03-2009, 01:46 PM   #2
CJ7-Tim
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Find a new or used auto body and painting book. Try Google or a used book store. Chilton's or Haynes used to have one. A least once a year one of the 4x4 or Hot Rod magazines does an article on painting.

The big secret is the preparation. The parts need to be clean and free of dirt, car wax, silicones, oil, and grease. Your compressor air must be filtered at the spray gun to remove any compressor oils. The prepared surface needs to be baby butt smooth or the final finish will show all imperfections. Your spray area has to be clean and dust free. Paints and thinners are toxic, use the proper paint filter mask, a dust mask won't filter the paint thinner fumes. You may need to strip that hood.
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Unread 12-03-2009, 07:26 PM   #3
cidd
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The clear coat on your hood is shot the hood will need sanded down at the least and a coat of paint and a coat of clear will need to be applied. The spray gun you bought from HF is probably ment to spray primer not paint. Go to a body shop and get a price itll be cheaper than going out and buying everthing you need . A good body man could wet sand that and probably shoot it in a day itll take you 3 days of ball breaking work to get it wrong.Trust me its more work than you think spend a day in a body shop and youll see what I mean.
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Unread 12-07-2009, 10:54 AM   #4
twcj8
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By the time you get what you need to paint a decent job, the body shop will be cheap. I didn't know what profession you are in or what type of work you do. The guy that has the body shop is in the body/painting business. Let him do his thing; take it to him, pick it up from him, and put it on. Unless you are set up to paint, just use a rattle can.
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Unread 12-09-2009, 07:16 AM   #5
Why J?
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Having painted my own Jeep (see sig) I would say that you could get away with a single stage.

Pick up a Harbor Freight "Purple gun" ( search and you will find what I'm talking about) they are awesome.

Make sure your compressor has enough CFM's to flow the gun. A good test is to set the gun up empty and hold down the trigger for 1 minute if your compressor can hold a specific pressure than your are fine. If not barrow a buddies and run the 2 compressors in series.

Quart of single stage should be enough and should cost around $50 with hardener and the guns usually run around $12.

It's all about preparation and cleanness. Take you time.
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Unread 12-09-2009, 08:43 PM   #6
turpehar
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The OP wants to do it himself, obviously to learn. Do it

If you aren't too particular with the color, you could go to paintforcars.com and buy a gallon kit of single stage urethane and skip the semi-gloss paint and clear. If you do your body work/primer/block sanding/finish sanding well, you'll save a bunch of time. You can get the paint kits from a number of colors pre mixed. You end up with about 1 1/2 gallons of material delivered to your door for around $90. I've used a bunch of this stuff and in terms of a poor mans paint job it doesn't get any better.

I give this out all the time. Some may not apply.
But you'll get idea.

1. Wash with detergent. Don't eat chicken wings in the garage and always keep your hands clean from grease, oil, and wax,
2. Wipe down all surfaces to be painted with silicone/wax/grease remover.
3. Do steps 1 and 2 before ever thinking about sanding. Ignore this and you will grind contaminates right into the panel.
4. Remove paint where body work must done. If you remove all paint you might forget where the dent and dings are. 100-180 grit, but there will be 1000 opinions about this.
5. Do all body repair
6. All the paint does not have to be removed if it is in good shape. Your call. Mask areas where you don't want covered by primer.
7. Prime the entire surface to be painted. No need to prime everything if there is paint that is in good shape. I usually do prime everything
8. Depending on the color of primer, say gray, buy a spray rattle can of black sandable primer to be used as a guide coat. A guide coat is a dusting of the surface with a contrasting color so that when you sand you know the surface is flat when the contrasting color is all gone.
9. Now you need to make a choice,,, is this going to be a slam job or do you really want it flat and smooth like a pro job? I would start now with 220 wet knowing that much of the primer applied will come off. I used the paper wrapped around a paint stick.
10. When your guide coat is gone, or mostly gone, you'll find some areas that may need a little more prime to build up low spots. Prime away.
11. Switch to 320 Wet if you have it or 400 and use the paper in a paint stick again. If you did your body work correctly you should be done using the stick.
12. Prime any areas that are at bare metal or fiberglass and complete the sanding process using 400 wet wrapped around a soft hand sanding pad. No finer the 400. Remove old masking tape and paper, apply new.
13. You are ready to use a primer sealer,,, follow the directions. A good primer sealer will do two things. It will remove the possibility of bleed through from former paint if it exists,,, usually red will be the worst offender. Sealer will also reduce the sand scratches visible after the paint cures. It will usually hide up to 320 grit.
14. Use compressed air and a tack cloth to remove dust that has landed on the vehicle, paying close attention to getting dust out of crevases.
15. Mix paint per manufacturers instruction.
16. Spray paint per manufacturers instruction. Single stage Urethane or Acrilyc Enamel will take 2-3 coats, I lean toward 3. No sanding between coats unless you have a run and plan to use a clearcoat. (Hopefully you're not spraying metallic your first time)
17. If you want to have a show finish, apply clear coat per manufacturers instructions. Let dry for a week. A profeshional may move to the next step the next day.
18. Water sand with 1000 grit using paper around a soft sanding pad, then move to 1500 wet, the 2000 wet.
19. Buff with a compound recommended by the paint manufacturer, or your personal preference. Remember to point a power buffer away from corners or you'll burn it off and you will be moving back to somewhere around step 13.
20. Sit back and think of your mistakes, I gaurantee you've made some. I still do after 20 years.
21. Enjoy and plan your next paint job,,, there will be others.
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Unread 12-12-2009, 12:51 PM   #7
JackAndCoke
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Turpehar, just curious, did you make that guide from your own mistakes?

If your not priming the whole thing, I wouldn't suggest removing paint with 100-180. Where I'm not priming, I would go with a 500.

If your removing paint where body work must be done, your best bet is to read your can of plastic. Most say apply to bear metal. If its a big job, I use a grinder. If I want to make the job easier and keep all lines and grooves intact, I'll go with an 80 grit.

I put a vinyl wash on metal before my primer.

Usually I paint on 500 grit, but then again your paint can will probably suggest something.

Edit: I work with Dupont products in general.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 09:17 PM   #8
turpehar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackAndCoke View Post
Turpehar, just curious, did you make that guide from your own mistakes? I did.

If your not priming the whole thing, I wouldn't suggest removing paint with 100-180. Where I'm not priming, I would go with a 500. The 100-180 if for going to bare metal where body work needs done. If you prime on 500 grit you're asking for adhesion issues

If your removing paint where body work must be done, your best bet is to read your can of plastic. Most say apply to bear metal. If its a big job, I use a grinder. If I want to make the job easier and keep all lines and grooves intact, I'll go with an 80 grit. Like I said, 1000 opinions on this.

I put a vinyl wash on metal before my primer.

Usually I paint on 500 grit, but then again your paint can will probably suggest something.

Edit: I work with Dupont products in general. Cool
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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:14 AM   #9
theguidoune
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Nice set of instructions. Just what I needed!
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Unread 01-14-2010, 12:41 PM   #10
burtonboard180
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also to add on what these guys are saying make sure you use a tack cloth to wipe ur hood down before painting to get all the dust and crap off. and on your compressor do you have a filter on it because u want to make sure all the water its out of the line before spraying your hood. i had alittle water get in my lines and it ended up bubbleing and chipping off the body
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:29 PM   #11
RLandis
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I'm about to buy an 03 Wrangler...it's in very good shape, except for the hood. There were bird droppings on it, and someone tried to touch it up, and did a p__s poor job. I'm assuming my only solution is to get the hood painted. What should I expect a body shop to charge me to paint the hood. By the way, the color is Silver.
Thanks,
Richard
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Unread 02-13-2010, 06:52 AM   #12
Phreak480
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Richard,

If you want the paint to match expect a bodyshop to paint more than just the hood to blend the colors together. paint mixed exactly the same can end up as 2 different colors with weather changes or even the differences of 1 painter to another. They will have to spray into the fenders and maybe into the cowl and up the windshield frame to blend the 2 colors together which gives the illusion of the vehicle being the same color. if you arent that particular and dont mind a difference in color make sure you voice that to the body shop and tell them to just "panel" paint the hood. I can't give you much of an idea on price because it depends on how much prep work would be involved based on how damaged the current paint is, and also pricing can vary alot by where you live. Here in NY not far from the big apple it would be much higher than in many other places. hopefully someone in your are can chime in with some helpful pricing info and maybe a recommendation on a shop. That is probably the most important part. Find a good reputable bodyshop who listens to what you want and explains things to you in return and remember you get what you pay for.
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