How hard is it to spray single stage metallic paint really - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-24-2011, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
Capt_Drake
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How hard is it to spray single stage metallic paint really

I like my charcoal grey metallic (code 4m) and I'm thinking that this will match close enough
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp2104.aspx

because I don't want to spend large amounts (>$400) for exact match. Also, I will be wheeling this thing and honestly, a show level paint job seems ridiculous.

So my question is, how hard is it, really, to spray a SINGLE STAGE URETHANE and get it somewhat descent?

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post #2 of 8 Old 03-24-2011, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-25-2011, 04:22 AM
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In my experience with single stage paint I have learned one thing, it is more temperamental then my wife. Single stage if done correctly can be laid very smooth and nice but you will find there is a very small margin for error. Watching many new people spray single stage you find typically they try to spray lighter then what is wanted which leads to a dry non-smooth coat. Then they go back over and try to over compensate which leads to major runs. Either way isn't to important as long as you have a few good coats the paint can be wet sanded and buffed.
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-25-2011, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks^^^

I'll practice a bit before I shoot the body, and you're saying go a LIIIttle bit towards the heavy side of light.
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-25-2011, 06:01 PM
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Sanding and buffing a single stage metallic is VERY hard to do without getting blotches that are different shades and metallic streaks..

When spraying a metallic single stage you want to spray it "just wet"..no more..no less,and the gun needs to be set differently to every brand and type and quality of paints,some are less pigmented..someare thicker..thinner..shades different..more or less metallic..etc etc.
If you never painted a full vehicle before,get an extra quart or so and pratice the settings and technique of the gun before going onto the vehicle and painting..

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post #6 of 8 Old 04-05-2011, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt_Drake View Post
I like my charcoal grey metallic (code 4m) and I'm thinking that this will match close enough
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp2104.aspx

because I don't want to spend large amounts (>$400) for exact match. Also, I will be wheeling this thing and honestly, a show level paint job seems ridiculous.

So my question is, how hard is it, really, to spray a SINGLE STAGE URETHANE and get it somewhat descent?
I used TCP Global Silver Firemist on engine, trans and xfer case and it turned out great. It was all sprayed with the purple hvlp HF gun and I was very happy with the paint. The only issue I had was I sprayed a little heavy on the drivers side of the motor and I have a little metallic shift.

On the other hand, I used Nason single stage on my daughter's truck and it had a lot of orange peel. This may have been due to using the incorrect reducer for the temperature in the booth.






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post #7 of 8 Old 04-06-2011, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
Sanding and buffing a single stage metallic is VERY hard to do without getting blotches that are different shades and metallic streaks..

When spraying a metallic single stage you want to spray it "just wet"..no more..no less,and the gun needs to be set differently to every brand and type and quality of paints,some are less pigmented..someare thicker..thinner..shades different..more or less metallic..etc etc.
If you never painted a full vehicle before,get an extra quart or so and pratice the settings and technique of the gun before going onto the vehicle and painting..
it sounds stupid, and totally defeats the purpose....but stick a coat of clear over the entire job. therefore, when colorsanding, you wont get blotches....however if the paint is put on properly, without runs there wont be any mismatches in color. but i think it would ber smarter for base clear
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-26-2011, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JHW12084 View Post
it sounds stupid, and totally defeats the purpose....but stick a coat of clear over the entire job. therefore, when colorsanding, you wont get blotches....however if the paint is put on properly, without runs there wont be any mismatches in color. but i think it would ber smarter for base clear
There is ALOT of painters using the single stage urethane under a urethane clear coat now instead of the flat base coat,just have to stay within the window of the re-coat and make sure it is compatible.

It gets a much deeper shine in end result

Regular base coat is much "easier" because it dries so quick so therefore much easier and quicker for production so it makes an easier product for the amatuer for the fact as long as the base coat is sprayed nice,you can spray a clear coat over it and even if you somewhat screw up the clear coat it is really easy to fix without re-spray as compared to a single stage with no clear.

But here we get back to spraying a single stage without screwing it up before the clear coat is applied over it

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