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Unread 06-10-2013, 07:00 PM   #1
cobrao4
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fort Myers, Florida
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How to get my painting project in order....

Well here is where I am at in this point in time. Everything has been stripped to metal, epoxy primed, body work completed, epoxy sealer and 4 coats of high build primer sprayed. Just blocked everything and a few more odds and ends and it will be ready for paint

Here is my question. When I removed all of the hinges, windshield, hood, doors etc there were areas that rusted between the body and door hinge for example. I want to try and prevent this from happeneing again or at least anytime soon. Since I have them off should i spray everything seperately or would it be ok to put these items back on since everything is primed I want them all to be the color of the vehicle which will be jet black with a eggshell clearcoat

Is there any benefit to painting the hardware first. As always, I am nervous about scratching something when re-assembling aqnd lining things up again.

Should I put the windshield back in the new frame or paint the frame first

Can anyone give me some ideas as to the order in which I should get the painting job completed.

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Unread 06-11-2013, 08:53 AM   #2
goldhammer
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1988 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Best to paint all at the same time, with small stuff off the rig. This will prevent bridging of the paint between body and hinges, etc. and cracking loose later. Paint the windshield frame first then install the glass after. Just put together carefully and use some masking tape to avoid scratched if you have to. Not under the piece but by it.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:22 AM   #3
cobrao4
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Thanks for taking the time to respond and of course the advice
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Unread 06-11-2013, 06:34 PM   #4
ATVRACER76
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I agree with goldhammer.. But i have a few other tips i like to use.. Take your door hinges and spray the back side of it (side that goes against the fender and against the door), and paint the fender and door just in the area the hinge goes.. Any where one thing is bolted to the body covering something i like to paint seperately first.. Then id bolt it all together once the paints dry, lightly scuff any exposed new paint, and paint the whole thing at once.. Thats the best way to get good coverage and not have to worry about corrosion or rust starting in those spots..
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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:49 AM   #5
goldhammer
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Not a bad idea, but with some materials you can get a lifting (wrinkling) issue with rebasing over scuffed/sanded clear when it is fresh, even though it is catalized. Catalized base coat material lessens it somewhat, but it can still happen.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 09:29 AM   #6
ATVRACER76
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Yes, that is possible if you dont let it completely dry first.. I think if you paint those areas lets say on a monday, let it dry overnight, on tuesday you put everything together (which would be a speedy assembly), by wednesday when you scuff the fresh paint/clear it should be good to go as long as its not sitting out in the cold.. Just like if you paint the jamb of a fender so you can put it on the vehicle to paint it and blend a door, i always get some paint and clear on the outter portion that is to be painted the next day.. I generally dont have any issues with that process.. I have had issues when i push the limits and try to do it all in one day though.. So id say after ya paint those areas, give it at least 24 hours before you scuff and paint the rest.. Of course, not all paints/clears are the same but are generally similar..
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Unread 06-12-2013, 01:23 PM   #7
cobrao4
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Have you guys ever tried to remove a part that you painted over like a hood or door hinge? Did you cut the through the BC/CC with a razorblade or something before removing the piece? I like the fact that you are suggesting to paint the piece on the rig all together. At least then the torx heads are painted as well. Are there any concerns about the area where the piece meets the body, cracking after time if you painted over it? That is my other concern.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 01:31 PM   #8
goldhammer
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That was the reference to bridging and possibly crack and then flaking later. You can paint the bolts when you do the small parts by poking a hole in cardboard and sticking the bolts in those holes to hold them, Any chips and mars on them could be touched up after assembly. Usually not that noticeable to anyone else unless it is a show rig.

When you say eggshell clear, are you referring to a pearl clearcoat? If so touchups will be a bear to do when you pick up rock chips and such. Or do you mean a satin type finish on the clear?
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Unread 06-12-2013, 05:52 PM   #9
cobrao4
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Location: Fort Myers, Florida
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No not a pearl clearcoat.... There is a product that PPG (I believe it's Deltron) sells that you are able to vary the amount of flat-ness if you will, in the clear. The more or less of this additive changes just how flat the finish looks. My vision was eggshell but a lot of people refer to it as matte or satin. Haven't spoke to anyone other the PPG rep, which was a very short conversation, on the product and need to find out more about it.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 06:14 PM   #10
goldhammer
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With a plain clear and plain black you can do touchups on chips and mars on bolts and torx heads if you ding them putting it back together.

Good Luck with the project. It is mostly in the prep, don't hurry it.
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