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Unread 01-21-2015, 06:11 PM   #1
JohnnyFab
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Hot rod black questions

I have a couple questions and haven't been able to locate the exact answers I am looking for. I am tossing around the idea of using a hot rod black "kit" to paint my jeep. My jeep is already black, but gloss and I have two specific questions.

1. How hot does a satin finish get to the touch vs. gloss black? This is important to me, since I'm in AZ.

2. How bad does satin show dirt compared to gloss and how easy is it to clean?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Unread 01-22-2015, 07:42 AM   #2
1320yj
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What the custom shops do with flat black is to use a standard black basecoat and then apply a flat or satin finish clear coat.
As far as heat goes the gloss may be a little bit cooler because of the reflective properties of the shiny clear but probably not as much that you would notice.
Black shows every spec of dirt gloss or flat.
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Unread 01-22-2015, 10:55 AM   #3
swirve
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There are several different options as far as a flat or satin finish. You can use a single stage such as Hot Rod Flatz, you can have urethane flattened to a satin, flat finish or you can go the base/ clear route.

image-1606989803.jpg

This is base/clear. I chose this route because of the pearl/ metallic base and stripes.

image-1772997235.jpg

This is a fairly cheap single stage urethane that i had flattened to a satin. Its holding up very well.
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Unread 01-22-2015, 12:42 PM   #4
JohnnyFab
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Yeah, I am planning on using a single stage hot rod black kit from sem.
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Unread 01-22-2015, 01:12 PM   #5
swirve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyFab
Yeah, I am planning on using a single stage hot rod black kit from sem.
Overlap and wetness is crucial so you dont end up with parts that have different sheen. You must get the same amount of material on each panel
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Unread 01-22-2015, 02:28 PM   #6
1320yj
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Originally Posted by swirve View Post
Overlap and wetness is crucial so you dont end up with parts that have different sheen. You must get the same amount of material on each panel
Its a heck of a lot harder to make a whole vehicle dull than it to make it all shiny . Raising the pressure , opening the fan and keeping your distance will help.
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Unread 01-22-2015, 02:44 PM   #7
JohnnyFab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swirve View Post
Overlap and wetness is crucial so you dont end up with parts that have different sheen. You must get the same amount of material on each panel
Got it, thanks for the pointers.
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Unread 01-22-2015, 05:24 PM   #8
swirve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320yj
Its a heck of a lot harder to make a whole vehicle dull than it to make it all shiny . Raising the pressure , opening the fan and keeping your distance will help.
Raising pressure and opening the fan will only cause a split pattern. Overlap and wetness are the key factors on a satin job
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Unread 01-22-2015, 10:01 PM   #9
1320yj
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Originally Posted by swirve View Post
Raising pressure and opening the fan will only cause a split pattern. Overlap and wetness are the key factors on a satin job
You just don't open up the fan that much and just a few pounds and more fluid flow keeps it wet and from striping. All of that of course depends on temp , humidity, and the speed of the thinner.
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Unread 01-23-2015, 01:41 AM   #10
magnetman
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Also, the flatter you go, the more tendency the surface will have to show scuffs and mar lines when a hard object gets dragged across the surface.
I've never compared high quality clears to off brands so I can't say this is true with all products. Since the intro of low sheen clears to the market many products now incorporate some wax based flatting agents in addition to silicas which are the traditional flatting agents used. The waxes actually help with mar resistance.
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