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Unread 10-02-2009, 09:24 PM   #1
KJFactor
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fixing bubbled clear coat

Well, Good to see this paint and body section.
My black hood has the clear coat bubbling up. Everytime I wash it, it appears to get worse. So what is the best way to re-clear coat it? Do I use a fine sand paper to buff out the edges where the edge of the clear coat meets the underlying black paint and then spray a can of clear coat on? Thanks.

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Unread 10-02-2009, 10:02 PM   #2
gonejeepin04220
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you can try that with wet sand paper.. if it isnt to big i would chip off what you can with your finger nail and maybe use some clear nail polish to cover where clear coat is missing and go over edge of chipped clear coat to prevent from happening again..
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Unread 10-02-2009, 10:40 PM   #3
KJFactor
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It would take a lot of nail polish. Here is a little bit of it on one side but the other is almost half the hood. I know I could just take it to the shop. But I would rather do it myself.
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Unread 10-03-2009, 06:00 PM   #4
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I guess not a lot of people do body or paint work unless it's rhino/herculiner.
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Unread 10-03-2009, 06:02 PM   #5
Zembonez
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It needs to be repainted. Once clear coat starts letting go, there is no saving it. Just having the hood stripped and repainted should not be terribly expensive.
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Unread 10-03-2009, 07:46 PM   #6
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You are looking at about 2-4 hours of labor for stripping the hood, where they will sand the clear until it feathers into itself, and probably go ahead and sand a bit off the rest. Then you are looking at about $400 or so for paint labor and materials.
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Unread 10-03-2009, 09:00 PM   #7
KJFactor
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Thanks for the responses. That actually clears up some questions I had later. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try and sand and re paint and clear coat it. If I terrribly mess up I can always take it to some shop. Thanks guys.
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'94 Wrangler on 37" SOLD. I hate I don't have a Jeep
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Unread 10-04-2009, 10:43 AM   #8
BULLITTBUilder
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Honestly looking at it, it definitely needs a repaint. Like what was said earlier once basecoat (colored paint) is exposed to the elements it fades and can't simply be recleared. Now there are two avenues for you.
The first is the obvious, take it to a body shop and have the hood redone. Depending on what the rest of the hood looks like they can either scuff up a repaint/blend into the surrounding areas or may just repaint the whole thing.
Option 2 is and I only recommend this if you already have an air compressor is (even if you don't have an hvlp gun) pick one up, head down to your nearest jobber (auto paint supplier) they will use a spectrograph and color match your paint. You will only need a quart of paint (smallest available size), once reduced it makes a half gallon of sprayable paint. I would also strongly recommend a good epoxy primer, and a quart of a medium clear. I use the deltron line (dbc 300) high quality durable finish. Sand down the whole hood using 400 or so grit paper. Wet sand it, prime it, prep, paint and clear. If your a beginner that's why I say whole hood and not affected area, blending for beginners is not easy. You will pay nowhere near 400 bucks and if a body shop has to respray the whole hood it will cost much more than 400.
If you need more advice on paint feel free to ask. But in any event the best way to avoid this in the future is to wash your truck often, if it's really dirty after washing, clay the car (mothers/meguires are 2 good systems) Good Luck.
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Unread 10-04-2009, 06:55 PM   #9
KJFactor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BULLITTBUilder View Post
Honestly looking at it, it definitely needs a repaint. Like what was said earlier once basecoat (colored paint) is exposed to the elements it fades and can't simply be recleared. Now there are two avenues for you.
The first is the obvious, take it to a body shop and have the hood redone. Depending on what the rest of the hood looks like they can either scuff up a repaint/blend into the surrounding areas or may just repaint the whole thing.
Option 2 is and I only recommend this if you already have an air compressor is (even if you don't have an hvlp gun) pick one up, head down to your nearest jobber (auto paint supplier) they will use a spectrograph and color match your paint. You will only need a quart of paint (smallest available size), once reduced it makes a half gallon of sprayable paint. I would also strongly recommend a good epoxy primer, and a quart of a medium clear. I use the deltron line (dbc 300) high quality durable finish. Sand down the whole hood using 400 or so grit paper. Wet sand it, prime it, prep, paint and clear. If your a beginner that's why I say whole hood and not affected area, blending for beginners is not easy. You will pay nowhere near 400 bucks and if a body shop has to respray the whole hood it will cost much more than 400.
If you need more advice on paint feel free to ask. But in any event the best way to avoid this in the future is to wash your truck often, if it's really dirty after washing, clay the car (mothers/meguires are 2 good systems) Good Luck.
Right on. Thanks! You know, once I get all my other projects out of the way (i.e. High Line and some other hood plan) I think I'll attempt it because I just made an air compressor out of two old CO2 bottles.
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'94 Wrangler on 37" SOLD. I hate I don't have a Jeep
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Unread 10-05-2009, 12:12 AM   #10
BULLITTBUilder
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Co2 bottles? how big are those babies. quite inventive but what does it put out? spray guns use a lot of air. I run a 60 gal compressor putting out 14cfm at 90 psi, which to be quite honest is on the small side. I'm not flaming on you im just curious about your spray setup and to help you set it up right. The reason why you need so much air with an HVLP (high volume low pressure) is because you want to have a large volume of air ready at your disposal for a few reasons. first is if you are waiting for a compressor tank to refill itself you will get a ****ty paint job (the paint wont blend properly and will come out splotched or dusted on) second is you will have inconsistent air pressure while the compressor is running on it's duty cycle (paint will burst, splatter, other inconsistencies) again ****ty paint job and third that i can think of now is if the compressor is constantly on it's duty cycle because there is a constant demand greater than your tanks it will need constant lubrication. With this comes another problem, even with the best filter setup you will get oil in your line which will come out at the gun maybe not a lot but it will come out. also with all of that heat from the compressor you will also get water vapor in the line. those two things will produce fish eyes in your paint again a ****ty paint job. that's about the best advice i can give you so definitely take the time a make sure you have a good air supply and paint system. This step is a crucial part of preparation, and when it comes to paint jobs it is all in the prep work. practice on an old fender or hood, etc if you dont have one pick one up from the junk yard. THIS IS A MUST. black is one of the harder paints to lay right so practice first. I keep an old fender around before every paint job i start. I take a few passes first to dial in the gun so i get the best results. dialing in on the vehicle is a big mistake and beginners will freak and only compound the screw up. best of luck
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Unread 10-05-2009, 07:28 AM   #11
Ironworker709
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You need more than 14 CFM @ 90 spraying with an HVLP?..most HVLP i use and see are at most a required 30 PSI..my SATA jet 3000 only needs about 15 PSI.My devilbiss finishline II at maybe 20-25 only because i like the way it atomises at a higher pressure(depending on the paint).Cheap HVLP's seem to spray better towards 30(like the harbor freight 41430)
I use a 60 gallon Ingersol Rand compressor with a rated 12.3 @ 90..never even come close to it's limits runnin 15-20 PSI runnin spray guns,but do have to wait at times when using DA's and long bourds and air ratchets..etc.
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Unread 10-05-2009, 09:23 AM   #12
BULLITTBUilder
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Yeah but you might want to check that again. The 90 PSI is at the compressor not at the cap, at the line you drop it to 30 psi and there is an internal regulator in the gun that drops it down to around 10 psi. If you set the compressor to 30 psi you would barely be spraying paint, if you were even able to atomize the paint it would look orange peeled and rough as hell. There are at least 3 regulators in a paint system, and all 3 are required regardless of what gun you have. THere is one at the compressor, one AT the gun and there is the one inside the gun. All three are adjustable and the first 2 should always be filtered.
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Unread 10-05-2009, 05:02 PM   #13
KJFactor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BULLITTBUilder View Post
Co2 bottles? how big are those babies. quite inventive but what does it put out? spray guns use a lot of air. I run a 60 gal compressor putting out 14cfm at 90 psi, which to be quite honest is on the small side. I'm not flaming on you im just curious about your spray setup and to help you set it up right. The reason why you need so much air with an HVLP (high volume low pressure) is because you want to have a large volume of air ready at your disposal for a few reasons. first is if you are waiting for a compressor tank to refill itself you will get a ****ty paint job (the paint wont blend properly and will come out splotched or dusted on) second is you will have inconsistent air pressure while the compressor is running on it's duty cycle (paint will burst, splatter, other inconsistencies) again ****ty paint job and third that i can think of now is if the compressor is constantly on it's duty cycle because there is a constant demand greater than your tanks it will need constant lubrication. With this comes another problem, even with the best filter setup you will get oil in your line which will come out at the gun maybe not a lot but it will come out. also with all of that heat from the compressor you will also get water vapor in the line. those two things will produce fish eyes in your paint again a ****ty paint job. that's about the best advice i can give you so definitely take the time a make sure you have a good air supply and paint system. This step is a crucial part of preparation, and when it comes to paint jobs it is all in the prep work. practice on an old fender or hood, etc if you dont have one pick one up from the junk yard. THIS IS A MUST. black is one of the harder paints to lay right so practice first. I keep an old fender around before every paint job i start. I take a few passes first to dial in the gun so i get the best results. dialing in on the vehicle is a big mistake and beginners will freak and only compound the screw up. best of luck
I had two 20lb CO2 bottles and a small air compressor for airing up tires. I never entended for it to be anything but an experiment to see if I could do it. Over all I want to find a small electric or gas powered compressor. Well, in the end I did get it to work and now that there is all this talk on painting, it really makes me want to do it. But sadly I do not have a garage to keep all the outside dust off.
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'94 Wrangler on 37" SOLD. I hate I don't have a Jeep
GOD WILL JUDGE OUR ENEMIES...WE'LL ARRANGE THE MEETING
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Unread 10-05-2009, 05:07 PM   #14
BULLITTBUilder
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Garage? you dont actually need a garage. You can make an outdoor spray booth using lumber and vapor barrier plastic. It has been done before just google home made outdoor spray booths. the plastic will help keep overspray to a minimum. Some daredevils actually spray out in the open but i wouldnt recommend it.
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Unread 10-05-2009, 06:21 PM   #15
KJFactor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BULLITTBUilder View Post
Garage? you dont actually need a garage. You can make an outdoor spray booth using lumber and vapor barrier plastic. It has been done before just google home made outdoor spray booths. the plastic will help keep overspray to a minimum. Some daredevils actually spray out in the open but i wouldnt recommend it.
When painting, is their an outdoor temperature that someone should paint? (provided this is done outdoors instead of inside the garage where it can be climate controlled).
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'94 Wrangler on 37" SOLD. I hate I don't have a Jeep
GOD WILL JUDGE OUR ENEMIES...WE'LL ARRANGE THE MEETING
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