Bought a YJ with unfinished what? -
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-09-2010, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 172
Bought a YJ with unfinished what?

Hi all! Newbie here with my first post. I bought a 93 YJ as a project that didn't run, the paint job wasn't completed, and all interior parts and most external are in milk crates/coffee cans. I'm flying on this project!

Sunday-Looked at truck, made offer.
Monday (After work)-Trailered it home.
Tuesday (After work)-Got it running.
Wednesday (After work)- 1st coat of Herculiner to tub.
Thursday (After work)- 2nd & 3rd coat of Herculiner to tub.
Friday (today, after work)- I'll be reassembling the interior.

So I'm making great progress and though it would be longer until I had to figure out what to do with the paint. I know NOTHING about auto paint and have exactly 0 experience with it. The prior owner said he put 4 coats of Duplicolor on it, and all it needs is wet sanding and clearcoat. I knodded knowingly and thought to myself, "What the hell is wet sanding?"

Is this something I can do myself? What tools do I need? Will a paintshop just clearcoat it for cheap? And whats a fair price? Some of the hinges were removed and are developing rust.

I'm not looking to make this truck the Belle of the Ball, I just want it to look OK. I am also well known as a cheap-***. Here is my plan, and please give me your advice:

1. Grind down, prime and paint the hinges with Duplicolor spray cans.

2. Wet sand the body (whatever that is)

3. Take it to Maaco or some other dump for a clearcoat.

Or I could clearcoat it myself with rattle cans. Please advise!

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post #2 of 6 Old 04-09-2010, 12:34 PM
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1994 ZJ 
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do you have any pics?
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-09-2010, 01:15 PM
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
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Location: Reno
Posts: 309
jumping right in, aren't ya!

Ok, call around to several body shops. One of them might be needing the business and give you a better job than Maaco.

If he used "rattle can" paint, most shops will just laugh and walk away from it. They will not risk their rep on a "spray can base-coat". But you never know.

wet sanding involves wet-or-dry sand paper, water (duh) and lots of elbow grease.
You will be sanding out all the runs , drips, and "orange-peel" areas. trying to make it smooooooooooth as possible. Depending on how many coats the PO applied, you may need to go back and touch up the "thin spots". If it was a single stage paint, you could then use rubbing compound, then polishing compound, to rub it out to a shine.

Clearcoat will give it a "deeper" look, but involves alot of the same work on the clear.

That's why in the long run, shopping around for a shop to do it is often worth the extra $$$

just my 2 cents

Last edited by shadowulf; 04-09-2010 at 01:27 PM.
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-09-2010, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 172
Thanks! I will call around to a few different places. Maybe I can use this garbage Michigan economy to my advantage. Heck, maybe monday I'll even register it, put some insurance on it and the tail lights back on and take it to the shops for evaluation with $50 sticking out of my pocket! I'll also get some pics up here.
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-10-2010, 02:57 AM
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1983 CJ7 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Edgewater Fl.
Posts: 9
The second DVD in this set tells you how to fix paint to make it look great even with boo-boos in it. Everything you ever wanted to know about painting..

Let's paint your car!

I chose "fishtank" for a username because all the other JEEP type usernames were taken!
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-13-2010, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 172
Thank for all the input. I've decided to go the el-cheapo route on the paint and finish it myself with clearcoat rattle cans. That'll leave more money for parts. I'd rather look shabby going down the road than look good on the side of it!
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