[magnetman]

Originally Posted by roklok

I have a 1995 YJ that is in excellent condition with 61,000 miles on it. I really don't need or want to line my entire tub. Just the area from the rear seat forward. I do have some minor surface rust to take care of with the chassis saver. Maybe it would just be better and cheaper if I ordered 2 quarts of Monstaliner and a quart of chassis saver. Thanks

That's pushing the cost of a 1 gallon kit with ship chgs.
With the free ship promo on a 1 gal kit and free qt of CS you'd be overspending and not getting as much material but then if you don't need the extra it's silly to waste it so I understand

Why not coat the back while you're already going to get dirty, remove seats, etc?
Were you going to leave the carpet in back?

[RJMICP]

take it from me who used Monstaliner.... get the whole 1 gallon kit... prep good, and coat the ENTIRE tub... it is an absolutely wonderful product...

[D3f4ult]

Originally Posted by magnetman

No one ever said Raptor was not a good product but for people that don't have a compressor or a place to spray Monstaliner is the only roll on product available that looks sprayed when it was rolled.

Honestly, how long did it take you to mask the vehicle before you could begin to spray the Raptor?

AND WHY DID THAT TAKE SO LONG TO CURE???

I did it in two days. It took a while to cure because it was still kinda cold out (around 50 degrees on average). The prep and mask I did just as I would for roll on. The only difference it where I masked the tub I used plastic and I overlaid placstic on the dash/windshield.
Spraying took me 2 hours. 30 minutes to spray, one hour flash, 30 minutes to spray.


In hindsight, I should've been patient and and waited until it warmed up outside....but it is what it is.

[roklok]

Originally Posted by magnetman

That's pushing the cost of a 1 gallon kit with ship chgs.
With the free ship promo on a 1 gal kit and free qt of CS you'd be overspending and not getting as much material but then if you don't need the extra it's silly to waste it so I understand

Why not coat the back while you're already going to get dirty, remove seats, etc?
Were you going to leave the carpet in back?

The rear is like new and I will be leaving the carpeting in. The area in front of the rear seat and of course in front of the driver and passenger seat shows some wear with some minor surface rust in spots and I wanted clean all of that up and then put the carpeting and floor mats back in. I didn't want to order the gallon kit and waste about half of the Monstaliner, but if the price is the same, I might as well order the gallon kit. Who knows, maybe I will change my mind about the rear once I see how nice it looks. I thought about just using the chassis saver by itself, but thought putting the Monstaliner over it would make it a lot more durable. I do very little off roading as this is mainly a street vehicle. I am making this one as near to factory new as possible, and don't want to beat on the trail. To nice for that. I will post a few pictures next week. I plan on keeping this Jeep forever and leaving it to my son. Thanks again.

[roklok]

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by roklok

Attachment 239849

Attachment 239851

Sweet!

[Silverjk12]

By far it would be the Dupli-color spray . I did my fender wells and as we speak my custom light bar. Make sure you let it sit before you tough it

[roklok]

Originally Posted by magnetman

Sweet!

Thanks Magnetman. Can you please answer a question comparing Chassis Saver vs KBS Rust Seal. They both appear to be the same except KBS Rust Seal comes in many different colors and smaller 8 oz containers. Do you know of any differences, advantages/dis-advantages. Thanks

http://www.kbs-coatings.com

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by roklok

Thanks Magnetman. Can you please answer a question comparing Chassis Saver vs KBS Rust Seal. They both appear to be the same except KBS Rust Seal comes in many different colors and smaller 8 oz containers. Do you know of any differences, advantages/dis-advantages. Thanks

http://www.kbs-coatings.com

Chassis Saver, KBS and POR15 are all the same chemistry and I've worked with both competitive products and they all give similar results. Neither KBS or POR manufacture their own products.

The KBS colors in my opinion are BS because the stuff still is not UV stable and it changes dramatically in appearance on exposure to direct sunlight. Direct means facing the sky where under a vehicle is indirect exposure.

The greatest advantage to using CS over the other 2..... Who answers your tech questions within 15 minutes?

[roklok]

Thanks for the quick response. I have never intended to use POR15 because of the prep required. Heard too many horror stories of POR15 peeling off, but was curious about the comparison of Chassis Saver vs KBS.

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by roklok

Thanks for the quick response. I have never intended to use POR15 because of the prep required. Heard too many horror stories of POR15 peeling off, but was curious about the comparison of Chassis Saver vs KBS.

Like I said they are all chemically the same, moisture cure urethanes

Urethanes in general have poor adhesion and surface conditions, either tight rust or mechanical abrasion is necessary for them to stick to roughness rather than a smooth surface

[studer21]

Magnet, I think i am set on purchasing the black gallon kit. I do have a few questions about the application. My 85 CJ looks to have a lousy liner on the tub already from the previous owner. There are a few rust spots here and there but nothing major. Should I completely remove the old liner? If so, how? Would you recommend getting the CS as well. Also it is 85-95 degrees and very humid here in NC. Would you recommend doing this inside or will the humidity and temperature only affect the curing time? Any other info would help, I hope to hear back from you soon! Thanks!

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by studer21

Magnet, I think i am set on purchasing the black gallon kit. I do have a few questions about the application. My 85 CJ looks to have a lousy liner on the tub already from the previous owner. There are a few rust spots here and there but nothing major. Should I completely remove the old liner? If so, how? Would you recommend getting the CS as well. Also it is 85-95 degrees and very humid here in NC. Would you recommend doing this inside or will the humidity and temperature only affect the curing time? Any other info would help, I hope to hear back from you soon! Thanks!

Hi

Humidity and temp really only affects cure time. The only thing to be real cautious about in summer months is not to leave the gallon of mixed/catalyzed material open for any longer than it takes to pour more material into your roller tray and to do a "solvent float" over the unused material in the can between coats. Just pour 3 - 4 oz of MEK over surface and close can tight, then just mix that solvent into coating when beginning 2nd coat. I would always do application indoors out of sunlight after doing prep outside

Prob not necessary to remove old liner and the promo includes a free qt of CS to at least spot prime rusted areas.

Is the old liner in poor condition, peeling, flaking, etc?

Any idea what liner it is? Is it rough like Herculiner?

[studer21]

Thanks for the quick response! The old liner was just done very poorly, there is no texture to it really. It is very shallow in some spots where the rust is. Would you recommend plugging the holes on the floor or just leaving them open? Also what does a "solvent float" mean. Thank you Magnet, would you recommend using this stuff on the hardtop, mine is also in need of some paint! Thanks a bunch!

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by studer21

Thanks for the quick response! The old liner was just done very poorly, there is no texture to it really. It is very shallow in some spots where the rust is. Would you recommend plugging the holes on the floor or just leaving them open? Also what does a "solvent float" mean. Thank you Magnet, would you recommend using this stuff on the hardtop, mine is also in need of some paint! Thanks a bunch!

Just scuff the old liner well with 80 -100 grit.
Some people plug holes before coating with tape
I don't bother and just take an Xacto knife and clean them out after

Read again below, I explained the solvent float. It prevents the leftover material from skinning in can between coats

Works very well on hardtops. Just scuff first and solvent wipe with MEK or Acetone same as tub