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Best "Over the Counter" Spray Undercoat or Bedliner

120K views 56 replies 23 participants last post by  GRYDE001 
#1 ·
There are about a zillion threads on here about the different available methods and types of spray on Bedliner and Undercoatings available from Rhinoliner to Line X to Herculiner to Rustoleum spray and everyone says the same thing. If you have the money, great spend it on Rhinoliner, if not Herculiner works just as well if not better for a lot less money.

Thats all fine and dandy, except I don't have access to a decent air compressor right now, and I need to spray the inside of my tub. I like the idea of it being REALLY CHEAP. As in less than 100 dollars, which less face it, if you want to buy herculiner your gonna spend at least that.

I can go to Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace Hardware/Wal-Mart and buy about 30 different kinds of undercoat or bedliner but I have NO IDEA what I'm buying, other than, its cheap, it comes out of a rattle can, and it looks like rubbery paint.

What kind is going to give me good value?

Are any of them going to work/look/last better than the others?

Is there less prep required? (I doubt it but hey who knows)

If you've done it before and have experience using the low end stuff please share!!!
 
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#2 ·
I'm not big into the rattle can stuff for actual lining the tub, but have used it on my sliders with some success. I used Rustoleum bed liner in a can. Prep is prep. The better you do it the better the final product will turn out. Don't know if you know this, but Herculiner has a $30 rebate going right now through WalMart. http://www.herculiner.com/walmart_store_list.html
 
#4 ·
The link for Herculiner comes back as saying only valid "June 1-July 31, 2006" Not a typo. 2006 LOL. Not so sure about that one, and it does look a little bit on the rough side when rolled on. Maybe I'll look into it though. Thanks for the thoughts. Any suggestions other than Rustoleum? ValSpar makes a similar product, and theres a couple different brands available at the Auto Parts stores too.
 
#11 ·
used Herculiner in my previous YJ, and would NEVER use it again!!! it doesn't hold up, fades to a dark gray(I used black), and could be scratched off with my fingernail... and trust me, I prepped REALLY good!!! the YJ I'm getting ready to do, I'm really considering the Monstaliner... any deals/rebates goin on with them?
 
#18 ·
No offense to anyone here, and I have limited experience.....however, I LOVE my U-POL Raptor Liner.

Key notes.

Order: BLACK, if it doesn't say black it is clear....lesson learned lol
After Spraying: LOOOOOONG time to cure. Probably 3 weeks. Once cured it is rock hard.
Prep: Crucial
Application: Too easy, it is aerosol

DO IT

edit:


PM with any questions....
 
#19 ·
No offense to anyone here, and I have limited experience.....however, I LOVE my U-POL Raptor Liner.

Key notes.

Order: BLACK, if it doesn't say black it is clear....lesson learned lol
After Spraying: LOOOOOONG time to cure. Probably 3 weeks. Once cured it is rock hard.
Prep: Crucial
Application: Too easy, it is aerosol

DO IT

edit:

PM with any questions....
No one ever said Raptor was not a good product but for people that don't have a compressor or a place to spray Monstaliner is the only roll on product available that looks sprayed when it was rolled.

Honestly, how long did it take you to mask the vehicle before you could begin to spray the Raptor?

AND WHY DID THAT TAKE SO LONG TO CURE???
 
#23 ·
You can and should as long as the surface you apply Chassis Saver to is correct for adhesion. CS sticks to tight rust after wire brushing/scraping to remove loose material. In the case of smooth/clean metal you need to coarse it up by scuffing with 60 grit abrasive. Sand blasting also works using coarse abrasive, no media blasting with glass or walnut shells.

CS can be topcoated after 6 hours and before 24 hrs. After 24, scuffing is needed to help adhesion of topcoats either paint or bedliner

With Monstaliner: In situations where smooth metal can't be roughened using a 2 part epoxy primer is what we recommend. This works as well for CS
 
#22 ·
I'll be sure and post pics after I apply the Monstaliner... it might take a little time as I have some work to do on the floor pans and rocker panel, but from everything I've read, it sounds like this is the BEST product on the market right now in regards to quality and ease of application... thanks again magnetman!!
 
#27 ·
Well, I ended up going with Rustoleum Bedliner in a can, mostly because i could buy it in whatever quantity i need, and the spray on ease factor. Another good point to mention is when it gets wore out, i can just scrub it with soap and water, let it dry and spray on another coat. It came out A LOT smoother and cleaner then what the roll on pics look like and has GREAT texture. looks awesome!!!! I'm going to do a write up and then i'll post a link to it.
 
#30 ·
I have a 1995 YJ that is in excellent condition with 61,000 miles on it. I really don't need or want to line my entire tub. Just the area from the rear seat forward. I do have some minor surface rust to take care of with the chassis saver. Maybe it would just be better and cheaper if I ordered 2 quarts of Monstaliner and a quart of chassis saver. Thanks
 
#31 ·
That's pushing the cost of a 1 gallon kit with ship chgs.
With the free ship promo on a 1 gal kit and free qt of CS you'd be overspending and not getting as much material but then if you don't need the extra it's silly to waste it so I understand

Why not coat the back while you're already going to get dirty, remove seats, etc?
Were you going to leave the carpet in back?
 
#40 ·
Thanks for the quick response. I have never intended to use POR15 because of the prep required. Heard too many horror stories of POR15 peeling off, but was curious about the comparison of Chassis Saver vs KBS. :thumbsup:
 
#42 ·
Magnet, I think i am set on purchasing the black gallon kit. I do have a few questions about the application. My 85 CJ looks to have a lousy liner on the tub already from the previous owner. There are a few rust spots here and there but nothing major. Should I completely remove the old liner? If so, how? Would you recommend getting the CS as well. Also it is 85-95 degrees and very humid here in NC. Would you recommend doing this inside or will the humidity and temperature only affect the curing time? Any other info would help, I hope to hear back from you soon! Thanks!
 
#43 ·
Hi

Humidity and temp really only affects cure time. The only thing to be real cautious about in summer months is not to leave the gallon of mixed/catalyzed material open for any longer than it takes to pour more material into your roller tray and to do a "solvent float" over the unused material in the can between coats. Just pour 3 - 4 oz of MEK over surface and close can tight, then just mix that solvent into coating when beginning 2nd coat. I would always do application indoors out of sunlight after doing prep outside

Prob not necessary to remove old liner and the promo includes a free qt of CS to at least spot prime rusted areas.

Is the old liner in poor condition, peeling, flaking, etc?

Any idea what liner it is? Is it rough like Herculiner?
 
#44 ·
Thanks for the quick response! The old liner was just done very poorly, there is no texture to it really. It is very shallow in some spots where the rust is. Would you recommend plugging the holes on the floor or just leaving them open? Also what does a "solvent float" mean. Thank you Magnet, would you recommend using this stuff on the hardtop, mine is also in need of some paint! Thanks a bunch!
 
#45 ·
Just scuff the old liner well with 80 -100 grit.
Some people plug holes before coating with tape
I don't bother and just take an Xacto knife and clean them out after

Read again below, I explained the solvent float. It prevents the leftover material from skinning in can between coats

Works very well on hardtops. Just scuff first and solvent wipe with MEK or Acetone same as tub
 
#46 ·
I used the rustoleum bed liner i picked up from walmart for 45 bucks. I used a siphon feed gun and shot it while my paint restoration was/ still is under place. Looks awesome to me, and was way worth the money. I put a lot more on the drive floor pan just to help the extra scrub
 
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