Well this was one of the easier installs I have done, but any mirror movers that claim to be no drill are counting on the fact that the bolts will not work free of the junk holding them in place
which is not likely in an older vehicle such as what I have ('91 Wrangler).
What is worse is that the place the mirror mounts is the on the top windshield hinge, at the side. Why is this worse? Because if you have to put in new bolts as I did, you will need hands the size of a three year old and be at least triple jointed with the ability to dislocate your thumbe at will.
I figured out a few tricks for this one though. Here are the tools you will need:
Torx socket and a breaker bar (T35 or 40?)
Other impliments of destruction geared to getting the bolts out (Use your imagination)
and here is what I ended up using:
1 piece of 12 guage electrical wire about 2 feet long
1 Hot Glue Gun
4 Hex head replacement bolts, automotive grade (5 or higher) or Cromed bolts 5/16" 18tpi by 1 inch. (Have 1.5" and 2.0" ready just in case, they are cheap so don't be silly, you may need them for the top bolts)
5/16" Cobolt drill bits and a few smaller bits
Hex bits for the replacement bolts to tighten them down
1: Try to get the bolts out with the breaker bar
2: Buy replacement Torx bits after I twisted the old ones
3: Try to get the torx bolts out and twist another one
5: Use an impact driver to "losen" the bolts (Actually I was just taking out my frustrations.)
7: Repeat step 3 & 4
8: Break out the drill with Cobolt bits
9: Take about two minutes and drill out the bolts, and nuts
The bottom bolt on both sides can be accessed with a little effort, the drivers side being a little more difficult then the passanger side because of the emergency brake assembly. The top bolt was near impossibe for me because I have large hands. Unless you have a second person helping, do the bottom bolt first, tightenning it down well, it will hold the bracket in place for you when you do the top.
Okay, here is the trick I used for the top bolt:
I took the nut and the 2 feet of 12 guage electrical wire and glued it to the end of the wire. I then fished the wire up until I saw it through the hole and then put the bolt through the bracket and tightened it down. The driver's side is still a little worse to do then the passanger side, but is not bad at all to do if you fish it up.
If you have the dash opened, like to replace the speakers, it might be easily doable to put in the top nut, but I did not want to do that as the fishing trick was a lot faster then taking the dash down.
The final step is to take off the mirrors from the doors, mirrors from the brackets and then brackets from the door. Doing it in this order will let you take advantage of the door as a brace to hold the mirror as you work to remove it.
When you put the mirrors on do not tighten them until you test the maximum swing of the door so they are not hit when the door open up.
EDITED TO ADD:
The only reason I gave it a 9 was because I had to go to the effort of drilling out the bolts, and because having an instruction with some ideas of how to access the top nut would have been nice, even if it was not doable at all.
EDITED 9/20/06 TO ADD:
I already made a modification to these brackets. I found that when I used any kind of bolt that sat proud of the surface of the mirror movers that they impeded the removal of the doors. My solution was to countersink a machine screws (1 inch by 5/16th, 18TPI?) at least in the top hole. That way when the top part of the door hinge lifts up and past it will clear it with no issues.