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Unread 08-18-2012, 10:20 PM   #61
CDW_327
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Commerce MI/Traverse city MI, Michigan
Posts: 1,969
I didn't like the silver so I sprayed it black. Got the winch all bolted up and looking good!




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Unread 08-23-2012, 06:57 PM   #62
CDW_327
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Commerce MI/Traverse city MI, Michigan
Posts: 1,969
Ive been putting together a parts list for this build, trying to mainly buy things that i really need to make it drive better on road and most importantly offroad

Parts list:
1. Goodridge braided front brake lines
2. Rugged ridge SYE, Tattons CV drive shaft
3. CD player/new speakers
4. New working gauges, fuel/temp/volt
5. OME 36R springs front/rear
6. Good set of shocks
7. M.O.R.E Front shock hoops
9. 4:10 D30 with Aussie locker
10. 4:10 Ford 8.8 with Aussie locker
11. GPF rear bumper w/t swing out tire carrier
12. AtoZ sliders
13. TJ flares
14. Rough Country MML
15. 35's

I'm sure theirs a lot more but that's what i can think of right now.
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Unread 09-05-2012, 05:21 PM   #63
CDW_327
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Commerce MI/Traverse city MI, Michigan
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Memorial day weekend!

Took a trip up to Traverse City to do some wheeling over Memorial day weekend. Ran Townline Rd trail, all sand and crazy steep hill climbs, lots of technical tight stuff too. Didn't get too many pictures of some of the more challenging parts of the trail b/c we were wheeling alone but we got some.

On our way, crusin up US 23.


Made a stop at Unlimited Offroad in Fenton to pick up a few things, they have a few nice rigs


After 250 miles, we made it to the house we will probably call home in a year or two.


Made it to the trail




More posers





Townline trail Runs down the power lines in parts and in some areas theirs some nice views of Elk and Torch lake.






And we made it to my top secret trail side lake, only the local's know about it



More wheelin





Videos to come
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Unread 09-05-2012, 05:47 PM   #64
CDW_327
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Some videos from Townline Trail.

Ehh sand
Nope still didn't make it, just way to much sandy, steep and not enough gearing going into the turn

Thought this was going to be harder then it turned out to be and the cam really did not do it justice but it is what it is.

Wish i would have taken videos of the actual technical wheeling but it was too hard for someone to get in and out of the jeep to video, next time for sure!
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Unread 09-05-2012, 09:31 PM   #65
owtcast
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That little honey in the back is WAAAY to photogenic not to have her riding shotgun with you. Nice work on the Jeep too.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 05:55 AM   #66
CDW_327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owtcast
That little honey in the back is WAAAY to photogenic not to have her riding shotgun with you. Nice work on the Jeep too.
Ha, well she's actually my sister so I have no problem throwing her in the back lol.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 02:57 PM   #67
sxi4evr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDW_327 View Post
Ha, well she's actually my sister so I have no problem throwing her in the back lol.
hahahahahahahah
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Unread 09-07-2012, 01:19 PM   #68
CDW_327
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Picked up a factory soft top for free off a local forum. The actual top itself is in decent condition it's kinda old but at least it doesn't have any holes and especially none right above the drivers seat! The windows are in worse shape and have a couple tears in the bottom of the fabric and by the zippers but they will work until I can afford a new replacement top.
Window before buffing with machine glaze
image-2609363513.jpg
After
image-3015745744.jpg

Rip in the zipper seam
image-1146592340.jpg

image-864765113.jpg


Tinted windows look nice
image-2332798926.jpg

image-955517227.jpg

At least it will keep with rain out and look decent.

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Unread 09-10-2012, 08:31 PM   #69
CDW_327
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Made a write up in the YJ technical section on how to drain and clean the inside of your frame to prevent rust so im just going to copy and paste it here. This is a good "mod" for anyone living in the rust belt or does a lot of driving in the mud.

Why: Why would you drill holes in your frame you ask? Well b/c your Jeep came from the factory with a bunch of holes cut out in your frame for access to bolts and what not. Over time mud, dirt, salt water and what ever else your tires kick up end up flying into those holes and finding a resting place in your frame. The mud and dirt will get packed into the flat spots and crevasses of the frame then when it rains or you drive your jeep through water, the water gets trapped in the the dirt and mud that is sitting in your frame. Now that you have a frame packed with mud and I mean packed, There's no way for that water to escape therefor rotting your frame out. The drain holes allow you to wash out that mud and water by sticking a hose or pressure washer through the factory frame holes and allowing drainage to occur out of the newly drilled drain holes.

Tools:
1. Drill
2. 1/4" or similar sized drill bit
3. Step drill bit or tapered bit
4. chassis paint of some sort
5. Hose or best, Pressure washer
6. Air compressor


Step 1:
Locate where you will be drilling your holes. I found that the best places to drill holes are in the flat areas of the frame, where grim can get trapped.

Start with your 1/4" or like Drill bit, this way you have a good guide hole and wont risk wrecking your pricy step bit.


Start your first hole at the very back of your frame behind the shackles. Drill the hole about an half inch From the rear cross member.

Once you have your guide hole drilled, switch to your step bit and drill the hole out to 3/4"-1" hole. Once you have a nice 3/4"-1" hole repeat the process on the other frame rail.




Now move up on the frame some to just in behind of the rear spring hanger. Repeat the same process as you did at the rear shackles, Start with small guide drill bit then use the step bit to make the 1" hole.


Now your on to your last two holes, one on each side of the frame. These will be drilled just behind the front spring hanger in the same spot as you did to the rear, just up front.



Now as you were drilling I'm sure you noticed that there was about an 1" thick of mud and dirt packed onto the bottom of your frame, now you finally get to get that crap out!

By using the factory holes in the sides and tops of your frame rails you are going to spray water into the frame, its best to use a power washer or a high pressure hose and start from the front and move toward the back. Once you start spraying water into your frame you will notice your newly drilled drained holes will start spewing nasty brown water, this is good and means you are getting the gunk out. If you don't see any water coming from the drain holes or very little this means you have a major plug and need more water pressure or need to stick something up into the frame to get the water flowing through.




You can also spray water up through the drain holes which works well for getting the mud that pack in the flat spots of the frame.


Once you get to the back of the frame and around the rear shackles, you really need to wash that area out well. The rear shackle area of the frame is most prone to rot and holds the most mud and water. You will probably have to poke a screw driver or like object up through the drain hole to get the mud loose and use a lot of water pressure. It took me a good 20 min of spraying and poking to get the shackle area of the frame clean.


Once you no longer see dirty water flowing from the drain holes and the water is clear you can stop spraying. Now, take your air compressor and spray out any loose crap that didn't get washed out with the water. You might also have to re rinse your frame out with the hose after spraying with the air. Repeat the washing process until you are happy with how clean the frame is.


This is what came out of my frame, about 50 pounds of dirt and mud, mouse nests, leafs and some other unknown stuff, well worth drilling six holes in my frame if you ask me!


Make sure once the frame is dry that you paint the bare metal holes with a good chassis paint to prevent any rust. Now that your frame is clear and water flows out the drain holes well you can stick a hose in the frame once or twice a month or every time you wash your jeep to keep the frame clean and rot free!
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Unread 09-11-2012, 10:45 AM   #70
JEEP_Nut1218
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It's worth it...trust him lol

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Unread 09-12-2012, 06:41 AM   #71
CDW_327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEP_Nut1218
It's worth it...trust him lol
Ouch man. Is there a welder up at school you can use?

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Unread 09-13-2012, 01:57 PM   #72
JEEP_Nut1218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDW_327 View Post
Ouch man. Is there a welder up at school you can use?

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Its all fixed already lol. Did it before I left

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Unread 09-13-2012, 04:44 PM   #73
WidowYj91
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Gibsonville NC
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What lift are you running?
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'91 YJ,2.5L, 5spd, 3"BL (P.O's mistake), O.M.E 36r springs, Bilstien 5100's, 10,000lb chicago winch, 32x11.50 km2's, Family roll bar swap, Bunch of L.E.D stuff
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Unread 09-13-2012, 05:15 PM   #74
sxi4evr
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i think its rough country? ^^^

hey what'd you use to cut the flares?
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Unread 09-13-2012, 05:24 PM   #75
CDW_327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WidowYj91
What lift are you running?
Rough country 4" crap lift with 1/2" booms. Front is already sagged an inch with my winch and bumper on there, rides ok and flexes ok, too much lift for me though, will be going with OME 2.5" springs and 35s when money allows!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sxi4evr
i think its rough country? ^^^

hey what'd you use to cut the flares?
Just a pair of nice sharp scissors! Then rounded edges with a file/sand paper.

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