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XJ Rail Sale!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!Vanco Big Brake Kit Promotion!

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Unread 07-24-2012, 02:34 PM   #1
Beast88
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 25
Beast88's: YJ Hybrid Build

The Beast



We bought this 1988 YJ hybrid (parts from many different vehicles) about 4 years ago from some guy out in the middle of nowhere. This is quite the backyard beast. It has a SBC 350 with a 3 speed top loader out of a 60s GTO/Lemans and a Dana 20. It sits on 3/4 ton Chevy axles and 39" IROCs. The wife fell in love with it the moment she saw the big tires and heard the rumble of the engine. I was doomed from that point on. LOL

Anyway, we drove it home. Everything seemed fine. A couple days later I drove her to work in it. Dropped her off and broke down (stuck in 3rd gear) about 2 blocks from her work. Had to have it towed back to the house. I crawled under and re-aligned the shift levers and was back on the road. So I drove across town to a reputable 4wd shop to have them give it a once over. Looked good according to them. On my way home I had to stop a few different times because I was blowing coolant out of the radiator. I finally got home.

I spent a couple weeks trying everything (big aluminum radiator, thermostat, electric cooling fans, aluminum water pump, etc, etc.) under the sun to cool it down but just could not get it. I eventually decided to just do a complete top end rebuild. So I tore it down to the block. At that time I decided to coat the engine compartment with a polyurethane coating. I then purchased new heads, intake, carb, dist, basically everything new. I got it kinda back together and then it sat. It sat for 4 years. Now I have finally decided it was time to get it back on the road.

The good thing is that is seems to stay cool now :-D

Here are the pics of the engine/engine compartment project. Sorry some of the pics are not that good. Damn cell phones!

Teardown
























Prepping for coating






Sprayed










Assembly










Completely so far






While I had the engine compartment gutted I took the opportunity to upgrade the brake system since it sucked BAD with the 39" tires. The stock setup just was not enough to power the 3/4 ton brakes. So I added a master cylinder from a 1 ton ford van and a Wilwood Proportioning Valve. I also ran all new brake lines throughout. I still need to re-bleed the system again but they seem to work better.


I think the next project is to coat the exterior either a olive green or a medium gray polyurethane.


Last edited by Beast88; 07-24-2012 at 02:45 PM.. Reason: Titled it wrong
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Unread 07-24-2012, 03:08 PM   #2
stump1
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: farmington, ct
Posts: 461
simply beautiful
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MY RIG: http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j87/ramburger/a0fcb769-5e55-4a62-8426-cb7cce41c0c2_zpsccea3c78.jpg
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Unread 07-24-2012, 03:25 PM   #3
1SASjeepster
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Smith,TN, Tennessee
Posts: 720
Guy,

Your build looks fanstastic!! It really looks like you took your time and planned it well. What kinds of heads have you put on the 350? What Holley are you running? What kind of line are your running with your hydraulic clutch master cylinder? It looks unusual. Would you mind taking a close up photo for me? I haven't completed my rebuild yet and I am always looking for ideas to compare to mine. If you want an olive drab paint job, I can give you a source for super tough enamel that runs $30 a gallon. It has a 30 day curing time, but that only means don't take it in the field in the first 30 days... street riding is OK, rain is OK. Anyway I did mine in a Marine Corps Olive Drab which is really a "forest green/olive drab". I have enclosed a photo. Oh, the reason the paint is so cheap is because the manufacturer makes it for the military in the 100,000 gallon batches. The savings is passed on to you PLUS they sell rattle spray cans in the exact color for touch ups. It really works well for jeepers but not too many concern themselves with it except WWII vehicle restorers. Also, they have the WWII olive drab (Army), Air Force Gray, White, Safety red, Deep Air Force Blue, etc. They really have a good selection that I think you might like.

I have enclosed photos of my jeep that I have just painted the front clip and inside engine compartment. I will do the body when I repair the tailgate section. I have not finished the engine compartment and some pieces that are shown are pieces that I already had, not necessarily what will stay on the vehicle.

Take care,
100_6302.jpg   100_6303.jpg   100_6308.jpg   100_6312.jpg  
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Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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Unread 07-25-2012, 10:54 AM   #4
Beast88
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 25
Thanks Guys! It has been a long road to get here.

1SASjeepster, I cannot recall the specifics on the heads. I bought them 4 years ago from a shop here in PDX. As for the clutch hose, I am thinking it must be a Wilwood hose because the clutch master, slave and pedal are Wilwood. Here is a close-up of it.



The carb is a Holley Truck Avenger.

Thanks for the info on the coating. I will have to keep that in mind. Can you send me the info on where I can get it? I was actually planning to do the exterior in a polyurethane coating like the engine compartment. One of the colors I have is the olive and the other is the gray. I can actually mix any paint color with the coating if I like but I like those two standard colors.

Your build is coming along very nice as well. Very clean!
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Unread 07-25-2012, 12:41 PM   #5
1SASjeepster
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Smith,TN, Tennessee
Posts: 720
You can find the paint at "www.armyjeepparts.com/order_page/paint_bottom_1.htm#gillispie_paint". It has a lot of information and you can see the colors they offer. They are also too happy to send you some color swatches of the actual paint, since the internet can distort accurate colors.

Thanks for the photo of the clutch master cylinder line. Would you take a photo of the top of it for me? I need to see how the fitting is "modified" if in fact it is. The fitting on my master cylinder pressed in and is held in with a roll pin. Your looks awesome and I may want to go with one like that. It looks custom. Let me know. Also, thanks for the nice words about my rebuild. It meant a lot.

Take care,
__________________
Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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Unread 07-25-2012, 02:33 PM   #6
Beast88
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 25
Thanks for the link. I will check it out. I will try to get a pic for you tonight of the top. I do not recall exactly how it is plumbed but I believe it has a 3/8"-24 fitting on the top of the master cylinder unit. I think there are a couple fittings that basically turn it 180 degrees so it is facing down. I think it is exactly (if not the same unit) like the unit in this image.



I will definitely be watching your progress on your build. You have done an awesome job. In fact I had a couple questions about your build. Was that dash made special for you or is it available on their site? I love that one.

Also where did you find the 24 gallon tank. I have only seen the 15 and 20 gallon ones. We don't get too far on 15 gallons with a SBC 350/3 speed/39" tires. LOL I need as big as I can get.

I also need to consider the new wiring harness. Your idea is ingenious. As long as it is water tight. I have been tracking down electrical problems left and right. Just when I think I have them all figured out, something new pops up. I am down to one last problem that I cannot figure out. For some reason when I press the brake pedal the brake light on the dash comes on. It is strange. I am thinking it may have something to do with the aftermarket proportioning valve but not sure. I am going to re-bleed the brakes one more time and see if that helps. If not then I guess I may need to take it in. Otherwise just pull the bulb :-)
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Unread 07-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #7
1SASjeepster
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Smith,TN, Tennessee
Posts: 720
Beast88,

The dashboard was custom fabricated for me to my specs. But he will make the same dash for you without any problems. Double "D" Fabrication is the same and he does excellent work. He will email you until the design is just what you want AND he has a lot of experience jeeping. He advised me and gave me some fantastic ideas, once I told him what I wanted and didn't want. He did a design for my approval... I guess we went through four designs before we had what I wanted. I think the dash was around $250 plus shipping rwo years ago. The only problem I had was the small gauges have factory mounts that needed to be slightly modified to put them in those tubes... so they would lock down in the back of the dash plate. I wanted my dashboard to be "maintenance friendly" so if I needed to fix a gauge, all I had to do is sit in my front seat (no getting under the dash) and unscrew the plate. Now all of my gauges come out in a cluster to be repaired as needed. Similar to what was on later military jeeps.

My jeep was wrecked and the gas tank was punctured. At that time, they wanted $700 for a new fuel tank. There was no way I was paying that for a plastic tank. I found a steel one on the market... "aerospace" or "areotech" something or other out of California. I am not sure of the name, it was a while ago. They made fuel tanks. Now today, the fuel tanks are a lot cheaper and for the YJ, Jeep uses the same size fuel tank for both the 15 AND 20 gallon tanks. The fuel tank internal vent line is the only difference AND the sending unit. If you search on this forum for that topic, you will find out how to do it. Basically, you have the 15 gallon tank. You drop it. Cut a hose down to length. Reinsert it and now you can put in 20 gallons of gas in the same tank. (The volume of both tanks is the exact same.) The only difference is your gas gauge will now read "full" for a while longer until you use up those first five gallons, then it registers as normal. If I needed to increase my capacity today, I would do that because the price of plastic replacement tanks has dropped down considerably. I am not sure what that company would charge today to make the same steel tank...

When I began my restoration, I decided on a new wire harness from Painless. We don't think of our jeeps as "old" but they are. My jeep is twenty years old! That electrical system has seen its day just by the abuse my little brother put it through. His big neanderthal self used to take it "coast fishing" in the salt water, into the woods "mud hunting" and everything wild thing you can imagine. When I got that puppy, I looked at the engine running one night and it was a "little lightning show of electrical arcing". Well, I did what I could, which was splicing in a bunch of new wires (and it lasted me for the last twelve years) but I always knew when it was time to rebuild the jeep that I was going with a brand new electrical system. Wire insulation has greatly improved and who doesn't want a brand new fuse box with brand new wires going to everything, covered in nice wire looms? It just makes the jeep look clean and sharp when everything is done... like it drove off the showroom floor.

About your brake light, on the 92 YJ, the brake trouble light is operated from the switch in the OEM proportion valve under the brake master cylinder. It is my understanding that if pressure is low in the lines, it lights the light on your dash. Is that still hooked up? I wouldn't rebleed the brakes unless you felt a problem with applying your brakes. If the brake pedal is fine, your fluid is fine... meaning no air in lines. You would feel that way before the brake light comes on as soon as you apply the brakes in your drive way to start your vehicle if the switch is operating as it should.

Take care and keep posting. I can't wait to see your finished.
__________________
Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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Unread 07-27-2012, 11:22 AM   #8
Beast88
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 25
Thanks for the info. I will definitely be calling and getting one of those dashes. The wife loves it. So that is a plus

Yeah I have read all the posts on the gas tank mods. I was planning to do that. I just thought if I could find one bigger than 20 gallons then that would be even better. But if the cost is crazy then I will just do the mod.

My Jeep has been hacked to pieces. The wiring is a nightmare under the dashes. Most of the original wiring is gone or spliced. I am in the middle of trying to clean up the mess. I have a feeling the we may end up doing the harness at some point down the road.

As for my brakes, they were spongy from the start. Even after the new master cylinder and proportioning valve they still feel soft. I have yet to dig into the actual brakes and see what is going on. I am thinking I should just do a fresh rebuild on them and bleed them real good. With all that said I have a feeling that may be the problem. The pressure is not good enough in the system causing the light.

Before I do new brakes though I am probably going to replace the the rear-end because the previous owner welded the diff. This is fine if it is trailered to the mud but running around town with a locked diff on 39s can get kind of expensive.

Here is a crappy pic of the clutch master plumbing you asked for. Just as I suspected it has a couple of 90 degree fittings so it is facing down.

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Unread 07-27-2012, 02:02 PM   #9
1SASjeepster
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Smith,TN, Tennessee
Posts: 720
If your brake pedal is spongy, that indicates air in your system. Now if air comes in, when at rest AND in use, brake fluid flows out. This is seen in the driveway. Wheel cylinders are notorious for this and they are cheap to replace. Since you didn't mention about any brake fluid puddles, I am going to assume it is your master cylinder. You mentioned the brakes were always like this. Many people forget to "bench bleed" the master cylinder before they put it on the vehicle. If the master cylinder is not bench bled, it will have soggy brakes. The cure it to remove the master cylinder or replace it. Put it in a bench vice. Modify two brake lines (all you need to do is to buy one small brake line from auto parts and cut the line in half.) Now screw in the new modify brake lines and have them both dump into the bottom of their respective reservoirs. Now fill master cylinder with new brake fluid. Get a socket extension and press down on the rear of the master cylinder, just like the brake pedal push rod would do. Now let the extension come back. Repeat. The idea is to keep "pushing and relaxing" until no more air bubbles are visible through the modified brake lines in the master cylinder. When there is no more bubbles, it is "bench bled" correctly. Now mount it to your brake booster.

Thanks for the photo of the clutch master cylinder. The photo was fine. You see that particular master cylinder that jeeps use requires a fitting that goes into the unit and holds in with a roll pin the fits into a groove on the fitting. The OEM unit has a heat shrunk line on it and that goes to a "quick change" coupling nearer to your bellhousing. In drivetrains like ours, the fitting has to be modified to accept another custom fabbed line because we don't have the OEM heat shrunk tube available for our application. That is what I was concerned about. I have a few ways to do it, but I was looking at your unit to see if I could learn something that may help me later.

I am glad your wife is backing you up on the jeep build. It is ALWAYS better when husband and wife are in unison. It goes by much smoother and quicker. My wife is behind my build too. I used to let her drive it to work all the time and she just loved it. I guess it brings out that "wild side" in our sweet, innocent wives... doesn't it?

Take care,
__________________
Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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Unread 07-27-2012, 06:08 PM   #10
Beast88
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 25
Yeah I bench bled the new master before installing it. I think part of the problem is the front bleeder valves I think were the wrong ones because after I bled them they leaked for a while. So I think air got in there.

Actually the Jeep is the wife's rig. She just lets me do all the work. LMAO

I have to get her rig back on the road before I can work on mine.
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Unread 07-27-2012, 07:31 PM   #11
1SASjeepster
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Smith,TN, Tennessee
Posts: 720
Beast88,

Yeah, wives do that... but they make it worthwhile later, don't they? I have been married for 24 years and I have six children. My lady is still "my lady" and she is a pretty awesome one at that.

Take care,
__________________
Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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