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Unread 01-08-2014, 05:17 PM   #826
Randonexplosion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyj View Post
If you took geometry in high school you will be able to figure it out, most guys on pirate lead you to believe you need a degree in astrophysics and know the properties of dark matter, and dark energy to be able to link your jeep. Now I have never done link suspension but I do know it doesn't take rocket science to figure it out.
Well I only finished my sophomore year so I'm screwed
I did get my GED but no geometry. I'm sure I can figure it out but some tips from guys that have set up a custom 4 link would be helpful

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Unread 01-08-2014, 07:50 PM   #827
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R link calculator will draw a damn good picture bud! Personally i still stand by double triangulated if your going to do it.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:23 PM   #828
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What advantages would a double triangulated have over single? I think the biggest problem I'd have is mounting the triangulated arms by the t case output. I saw that Ripper bent his using .25" wall tubing.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:26 PM   #829
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Search rear steer witch a single triangulated. Id say its also stronger and more stable as well as possibly keeping your roll center lower than a single triangulated...i think pirate had a link to a good writeup last i looked. Single would prolly be fine, but if your making all the stuff id rather do it double triangulated. Youll have to beef up all the mounts pretty good and if your running low seperation theyll have to be even stronger...
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Unread 01-08-2014, 09:54 PM   #830
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I was just talking to an aquaintence at the bar tonight that welds chassis for a local 4x4 shop (Google it) and he said he would help me with the 4 link as soon as he slows down early summer. Pretty psyched for the help but he keeps wanting to build some crazy buggy ****.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 02:40 AM   #831
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Seeing that your not full width axles I would second the double tri set up. If u were running full widths a single tri approach would handle different- as you could get a few more degrees outward on the lower links.

Anyways double tri isn't that hard. Don't be scu'rd bout it... You can always pick up a Genright double triangulated crossmember and fab everything from there. It's not rocket science. Like they have said, basic geometry. There's only so many places to put things. Learn from others. See what works and do that.

In the rear you can always go with fox air shocks-smaller profile, easy to adjust ride height etc ... Cheaper too.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 07:39 AM   #832
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X2 on air, especially if your buddies shop can fill them...
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Unread 01-09-2014, 09:18 AM   #833
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Download the 4link calculator and start plugging your ballpark numbers to see how the single vs double tri would work for you. I'm single tri with no rear steer or squat/jacking it simply sits there and goes. The prob with double tri on a low jeep is keeping some frame separation when most people don't want to drop their belly skid 2". Don't let the internet overthink it on you its easy to get a capable link suspension right out of the box. You just have todo some measuring

After seeing seals blow out of a few sets of name brand air shocks and the lack of fine tuning I wouldnt suggest them. Coilovers are tried/true easily adjusted for weight or tuning. When you need to figure rates let me know I've done alot of trail and error with mine. Make sure to call vendors to get prices on everything or you could pick up a used set easily.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 09:37 AM   #834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssyj94 View Post
Download the 4link calculator and start plugging your ballpark numbers to see how the single vs double tri would work for you. I'm single tri with no rear steer or squat/jacking it simply sits there and goes. The prob with double tri on a low jeep is keeping some frame separation when most people don't want to drop their belly skid 2". Don't let the internet overthink it on you its easy to get a capable link suspension right out of the box. You just have todo some measuring

After seeing seals blow out of a few sets of name brand air shocks and the lack of fine tuning I wouldnt suggest them. Coilovers are tried/true easily adjusted for weight or tuning. When you need to figure rates let me know I've done alot of trail and error with mine. Make sure to call vendors to get prices on everything or you could pick up a used set easily.
I agree air shocks have some downfalls but cost wise they make sense. Id think most people would prefer coilovers but there costs can be high. That 4 link calculator will show everything you need and give yoi a good understanding all in it self. Ive got my 4 link with pan hard in there and have ran the 3 link numbers and double triangulated. It will really help you decide i think.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 11:33 AM   #835
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Thanks for the advice guys. Lots of things to consider.

I don't think I could get my "local shop" to touch air shocks for me. They build buggys and that's about all they do. I've tried to deal with them before and they don't give a **** about Jeeps.

SS I'll definitely take you up on your offer. I've been wondering how to figure out my jeep weight and spring rates. There are a couple of local places that have scales that I could probably use.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 11:46 AM   #836
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Anybody got a link to a good 4 link calculator? I looked around a bit yesterday and the ones that I found the sites were down. And do you need excel to run it? I thought I saw that somewhere.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 12:16 PM   #837
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...uest-help.html

You need excel to open it or it may also work on Openoffice (free download)
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Unread 01-09-2014, 12:20 PM   #838
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Thanks Clint you the man!
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Unread 01-10-2014, 08:14 AM   #839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randonexplosion
Anybody got a link to a good 4 link calculator? I looked around a bit yesterday and the ones that I found the sites were down. And do you need excel to run it? I thought I saw that somewhere.
I had zero experience with links when I started mine and I hadn't heard about this forum yet. I did a single tri 4 link in the rear. I drive mine on the street so I wanted it stable. Rear axle is 63" WMS to WMS. I can get you link lengths and angles if you like. I have CO in the front and 14" Fox air shocks in the rear. I'll sell them to you. Why, because they have little rebound dampening and they like to unload in the corners. I could probably control that w an anti sway bar, we'll see. PM me if you have any questions.
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Unread 01-10-2014, 08:49 AM   #840
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Feel free to post up a couple of pics and some measurements. Did you move the rear axle back any?
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