The yet unnamed Cherokee build thread - Page 2 -
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post #16 of 21 Old 08-27-2010, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
Haven't had a lot of time/money for Jeep upgrades, but have made a few small ones. I ordered quick fists over a month ago (found them through JF and they seem to have 1000 uses), but just got around to buying an ax and installing them. They seem pretty sturdy, but I haven't driven with them very much, yet. They were super easy to mount to pre-existing holes in my trocko rack, just had to by a couple short bolts and fender washers.
Shovel on the left side:

Ax on the right side:

I've also ordered new links for my front discos, but they haven't come in yet. As soon as I have some time, I'm going to start working on my SYE.

99 XJ 3.5" RE w/ BDS shocks, cragar soft 8s w/ 31" Pro Comp xtreme A/Ts.
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post #17 of 21 Old 09-20-2010, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
Small update on the Jeep front (no pun intended). I cleaned up the appearance of my front end by doing the air dam removal. The center portion had already been cut and came out easily enough by removing three bolts. I used a dremel to cut the bumper end caps even with the lines from the stock fog light cut outs. I think everything came out pretty clean. I removed the license plate mount a while ago.



I ordered the IRO SYE last week and should have it here by Wednesday. Hopefully, I'll have it installed by the end of the week.

99 XJ 3.5" RE w/ BDS shocks, cragar soft 8s w/ 31" Pro Comp xtreme A/Ts.
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post #18 of 21 Old 09-20-2010, 10:49 PM
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: chicago
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post #19 of 21 Old 09-23-2010, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
Got a little present in the mail today. The Fedex guy delivered it to me in a Penske truck!?
I haven't found much info on the IRO SYE on this forum, so I'll post as much as I can about it.

I ordered the package that came with the refurbished DS, the fixed yoke, and the drill bits and tap, all for $220 plus shipping. One reason that I like this kit is that it is a very complete SYE. They even include the necessary bolts to remove your TC drop, a small inclusion, but one I appreciate, because I will be utilizing them.

The weather is crappy here right now, so I'll have to wait for a drier day to start the install, since all I have is a rocky driveway to do the work in. I'll post more pictures and details of the install when I get it finished.

99 XJ 3.5" RE w/ BDS shocks, cragar soft 8s w/ 31" Pro Comp xtreme A/Ts.
My build thread:
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post #20 of 21 Old 10-26-2010, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
Finally getting around to writing up my SYE install. IROR has great instructions on their website. I did call them a couple of times with questions, and their customer service was great each time. I got to talk to their actual technicians that do installs there.

One question I asked was about cutting oil for the drilling and tapping portion. One of the techs told me they now use an expensive Mobil 1 cutting oil for all their work, but that they used to use regular motor oil. So, I used some old Mobil 1 oil left over from an oil change.

On to the work. I did all of this in my rocky, un-level driveway, with a minimum amount of tools. For all the work, all I used was the bottle jack that comes standard with the Jeep to do all the lifting (stacked on several blocks of wood).

First, the before picture of the DS:

The IROR kit came with the bolts necessary to remove my TC drop, which was super convenient. For anyone wondering, they are M10 x 40 hex bolts.
All the old bolts came out pretty well, except one, which I used PB Blaster and a little heat from a torch to remove. I followed IROR's suggestion and used anti-sieze on the new bolts I put in.

Next, I removed the old DS. The bolts on the rear pinion yoke came out pretty easily, after I used a little PB blaster. The hardest part was rotating the shaft to get acces to all the bolts (had to roll the Jeep forward a bit). I measured the distanced spec'd by IROR, then put blue tape around the output shaft and started to cut using a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 1/8" thick cutoff wheel.

I rotated the shaft by hand every few seconds to help make the cut more uniform. I also went very slowly (removed the cutting wheel every few seconds) and took a break half way through to keep the shaft from heating up too much. I was worried about overheating the seals (though I don't know if that is a legitimate concern).

In hindsight, I wish I had just made the cut with the Jeep running in reverse, so that the output shaft was spinning. I ended up doing this anyway, and using a grinding wheel to smooth and straighten my cut. The shaft spun a lot slower than I thought it would, so it wouldn't have been very hard to make the cut with the shaft spinning.

On to the drilling and tapping. I used an old windex bottle to spray the motor oil into the hole while I was drilling. I marked the center of the shaft by sliding the new yoke on, then pushing a permanent marker through the center hole. It would've been better to use a large drill bit that just barely fit through the hole in the yoke to start a small hole in the center of the shaft, but I didn't have one available. My hole was slightly off, but everything bolted up just fine.

I backed the drill bits (first drilled a small hole, then the larger one) out every few seconds to clear chips and keep the drill bit from overheating. The drill bits supplied by IROR worked just fine for this process, and didn't seem to get dull. I also used the tap from the IROR kit. The kit didn't come with a tap handle, which I was disappointed with at first (since I don't have one). After getting under the Jeep, though, I realized that a tap handle probably wouldn't have fit in the drive train tunnel. I ended up using a small #10 box wrench to turn the tap and that worked perfectly.

I was too oily to take pictures after all this, so all I have are pictures of the new yoke and shaft installed.




The whole installation took me about 3.5 - 4 hours to do by myself, including a break to eat and take pictures part way through cutting the shaft. I'm very happy with the kit so far.

99 XJ 3.5" RE w/ BDS shocks, cragar soft 8s w/ 31" Pro Comp xtreme A/Ts.
My build thread:
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post #21 of 21 Old 06-26-2011, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 44
IRO HD Track Bar Install

My Jeep started making a new noise (that's never good) a few weeks ago. Whenever I turned, the front end popped and the angle of the turn would change slightly. For a while, I couldn't figure out what was going on, but I finally asked someone to look under my front end while I turned the wheel to see where the noise was coming from. By that time, it had gotten so bad that I could feel the pop when I turned the wheel. It turns out the culprit was a worn track bar relocation bracket. I looked around on JF and found out that that was a common problem with lifted Jeeps. When people go the cheap route and use the stock track bar with a relocation bracket, instead of getting an adjustable track bar, the stock one often wears out. Here's a picture of the stock track bar and relocation bracket.

This is a close up of the relocation bracket. It moved a little each time I turned the wheel, causing the popping in the steering.

I did a little more research and settled on replacing my stock track bar with an Iron Rock Off Road Heavy Duty Adjustable Double Shear Track Bar. Iron Rock Off Road is the same company that I bought my slip yoke eliminator kit from. It's a really great company that makes quality products and has great customer service (that influenced my decision).

The new track bar required that I also change the bracket that mounts to the frame rail on the driver's side. This picture shows the original frame side track bar bracket.

Overall, the installation was straight forward because all the new parts were bolt on. Of course, doing the work in a slanted driveway added a bit of a challenge, because the track bar had a lot of pressure on it keeping the body from shifting over the axle. I had to lift and support the front frame rails and lift and support the front axle with blocks of wood to keep the body and axle from moving with respect to each other when I removed the track bar.

As soon as I decided I was going to replace the track bar, I started PB Blasting all the bolts twice a day. Most of the bolts and nuts broke loose with a wrench and a BFH. There were two bolts that were a challenge to remove. They were both very rusty and threatened to break. Luckily, after a generous treatment with a propane torch on both nuts, both bolts broke lose with little fuss. After examining one of the bolts, I realized I was pretty lucky to get it out without breaking it. I think the only reason it didn't break was because it was a high strength, 10.9 metric bolt. You can see how corroded it was near the head.

I replaced those two bolts temporarily with 8.8 bolts available at the local hardware store, while my 10.9s are on order.

After the stock track bar was removed, installing the new one consisted of bolting on the new frame-side bracket then adjusting the length and installing the new track bar, which went smoothly. This picture shows the new frame side bracket and heavy duty track bar.

This picture shows the axle side of the new track bar, sans relocation bracket.

After I installed the new track bar, I went for a short test drive. The steering felt great and tight, compared to being loose and "floaty" before. I parked the Jeep on the only level piece of concrete in town and measured to make sure the axle was centered under the body. I had to lengthen the track bar 1/8th of an inch to get centered, but now my Jeep handles great. The new frame side track bar bracket lowers the track bar mounting location 3/4", which has pretty much eliminated my bumpsteer, too. I do have to get an alignment done now, because the old track bar didn't have the axle centered, so my steering geometry is a little bit off.

99 XJ 3.5" RE w/ BDS shocks, cragar soft 8s w/ 31" Pro Comp xtreme A/Ts.
My build thread:
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