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The ULTIMATE "Selectable" Locker System! BroughRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits WJ Modular Recovery & Bull Bar Relocation Packages

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Unread 12-21-2013, 04:30 PM   #1981
sjones26573
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More wiring today.

Got the harness wired up to the M8000 control box. I didn't like the way the harness was designed to splice into the existing wiring, and I didn't have any male spade disconnects on hand so I cut the males off of the end of the harness, broke the shields off, and rewired it so I could use the In-Cab or remote without damaging the existing wiring.



I ran as much wire between the switch panel and fuse block as I could before it got dark. Labeled both ends so I'll know how to reattach everything when the panel is ready to be permanently installed (waiting to get back to shop and bend shifter). There will be loom on most of it and zip ties on the rest when all the wires are run.




And here's the mess that was once the cab.



I really underestimated how much work this takes. Get a lot less done in a day than I would have thought.

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Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson - Top Gear Botswana Special
Why don't all cars have no doors? When I come to power I'm going to make it a rule because this is just better.
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Unread 12-21-2013, 10:40 PM   #1982
rt4422
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Why don't you just replace the CV ball centering yoke? I had the exact same problem last spring and it turned out to be the ball in the yoke. They are only $50 off amazon and you probably need to replace if anyway. And I'm now having to replace the front one.
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Unread 12-21-2013, 10:41 PM   #1983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rt4422 View Post
Why don't you just replace the CV ball centering yoke? I had the exact same problem last spring and it turned out to be the ball in the yoke. They are only $50 off amazon and you probably need to replace if anyway. And I'm now having to replace the front one.
I just really doubt thats what it is. Shafts like not even a year old.
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The Yellowtail Build
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Quote:
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Why don't all cars have no doors? When I come to power I'm going to make it a rule because this is just better.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 05:15 AM   #1984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjones26573 View Post

I just really doubt thats what it is. Shafts like not even a year old.
I'm with him actually. Repeatedly maxing out the driveshaft could have worn out the cv joint. That or the driveshaft could be severely out of balance. Chances are the problem is pretty obvious, you just haven't seen it yet.

Try putting the driveshaft back in and put the jeep on jack stands so that all 4 tires are off the ground. Then have someone get in the jeep and spin the back tires while you get under the jeep and inspect things. Obviously be very careful doing this, it can be dangerous. If something is wrong with the driveshaft, even if it doesn't make the noise under those circumstances, you should be able to tell visually if that is where the problem lies.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 09:53 AM   #1985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid
I'm with him actually. Repeatedly maxing out the driveway could have worn out the cv joint. That or the driveshaft could be severely out of balance. Chances are the problem is pretty obvious, you just haven't seen it yet. Try putting the driveshaft back in and put the jeep on jack stands so that all 4 tires are off the ground. Then have someone get in the jeep and spin the back tires while you get under the jeep and inspect things. Obviously be very careful doing this, it can be dangerous. If something is wrong with the driveshaft, even if it doesn't make the noise under those circumstances, you should be able to tell visually if that is where the problem lies.
Do exactly that. That's how I figured mine out. It's not same same listening from inside. If it's a clunking/clicking noise when rolling and gets worse with speed to a certain point, I'd be willing to bet money it's the cv joint.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 06:25 PM   #1986
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I had a few requests for a write up on my panel and fuse block, so here's what I've got so far:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/w...block-1914898/
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The Yellowtail Build
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NIB HiLift HL-484 48" Cast/Steel Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson - Top Gear Botswana Special
Why don't all cars have no doors? When I come to power I'm going to make it a rule because this is just better.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 10:46 PM   #1987
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Does anybody have a solid recommendation for some coils about 2.5"-3" in lift? I still plan to test the driveshaft but I'm sure a lower lift would help out everything regardless. I honestly don't know why I haven't changed it sooner. I guess it's one of those "I already have it, don't spend more money on it" deals, but 4" is a headache and more than I need anyways. I believe the MC 3.5" coils will end up netting no difference since they're based off of one of MC's armor laden rigs. I would go straight for the 3" Currie coils but they're a Savvy exclusive and I just don't care to deal with them.
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The Yellowtail Build
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NIB HiLift HL-484 48" Cast/Steel Jack
4" Fabtech Coils/Shocks (TJ/LJ)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson - Top Gear Botswana Special
Why don't all cars have no doors? When I come to power I'm going to make it a rule because this is just better.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 10:56 PM   #1988
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You're right abt the MC coils. They gave me just over 4 inches in the rear. If savvy have the currie stuff in stock it may be a painless transaction... I've had good luck with them and I think it's because I called to verify stock in advance.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 11:01 PM   #1989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeMasterGT View Post
You're right abt the MC coils. They gave me just over 4 inches in the rear. If savvy have the currie stuff in stock it may be a painless transaction... I've had good luck with them and I think it's because I called to verify stock in advance.
It's not just stocking, management as well.

I've seen Synergy has a range of coil options but the fronts are crossmatched with the JK so it seems the lift numbers couldn't be very accurate, since the same coil in a TJ and JK ain't gonna net the same lift. Not many reviews out there either. I think Jankoid bought some.

EDIT: Synergy only has 4" for the rear.
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The Yellowtail Build
FOR SALE
NIB HiLift HL-484 48" Cast/Steel Jack
4" Fabtech Coils/Shocks (TJ/LJ)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson - Top Gear Botswana Special
Why don't all cars have no doors? When I come to power I'm going to make it a rule because this is just better.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 03:55 AM   #1990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeMasterGT
You're right abt the MC coils. They gave me just over 4 inches in the rear. If savvy have the currie stuff in stock it may be a painless transaction... I've had good luck with them and I think it's because I called to verify stock in advance.
This= Painless, I have never had issues with Savvy and he ships my stuff right out. I love my Currie springs, very nice ride, JF2013 is the discount code.

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Unread 12-23-2013, 04:38 AM   #1991
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BDS has 3" coils. And with the weight you have back their I don't think you'll get over 3.5".
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Unread 12-23-2013, 05:36 AM   #1992
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Originally Posted by tyvanwie View Post
BDS has 3" coils. And with the weight you have back their I don't think you'll get over 3.5".
That's what I was going to say.... BDS coils have a good reputation too!
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Unread 12-23-2013, 05:57 AM   #1993
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Might try Zone as well. They are the BDS budget line. I don't know if they sell the rear 3" coils separately though.

Fwiw, I'm a big fan of the RC 2.5" rear coils. You might need a 3/4" spacer or so once they settle, but they have an awesome unloaded length.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 06:11 AM   #1994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid
Might try Zone as well. They are the BDS budget line. I don't know if they sell the rear 3" coils separately though.

Fwiw, I'm a big fan of the RC 2.5" rear coils. You might need a 3/4" spacer or so once they settle, but they have an awesome unloaded length.
Just quickly looking at their site, I don't see zone selling just coils? Maybe I missed it?
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Unread 12-23-2013, 06:25 AM   #1995
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Just quickly looking at their site, I don't see zone selling just coils? Maybe I missed it?
You'd have to call.
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