post #1921 of Old 12-02-2013, 08:07 AM
Jankoid
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Originally Posted by sjones26573 View Post

Always game to work on electrical. Probably need to study some diagrams before I dive into that.
The stuff I need done is easy compared to what you are doing.

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post #1922 of Old 12-02-2013, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
sjones26573
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Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
The stuff I need done is easy compared to what you are doing.
Ok cool. Sounds fun

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post #1923 of Old 12-03-2013, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm... I seem to have run into a problem I didn't expect. I recently discovered these Fuel wheels are double drilled for 5x5, not 5x5.5 like I thought (which makes perfect f'n sense now that I actually think about it). The problem is that should I magically get the 44 swapped in in this lifetime, I wouldn't be able to do so without changing up the wheels. Apparently nobody makes a 5x5.5 to 5x5 or 5x4.5 adapter. Which means my install would be further pushed off until I could afford my beadlocks. Damn that's disappointing.

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post #1924 of Old 12-03-2013, 05:56 PM
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Just get some cheap used 35s and some used rims to run until you can afford the 37s/beadlocks. Then sell them once you are done with them and recoup the majority of what you spent on them. For example, stock f150 rims that can be found used for dirt cheap:



Same solution as your current front axle. It's what I would do.
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post #1925 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
Just get some cheap used 35s and some used rims to run until you can afford the 37s/beadlocks. Then sell them once you are done with them and recoup the majority of what you spent on them. For example, stock f150 rims that can be found used for dirt cheap:



Same solution as your current front axle. It's what I would do.
I would most definitely have to paint those before they came within 20 feet of my rig. But I do believe my next tire (for now) will be a 35 regardless so that probably isn't a bad idea. I hate buying things that I know I'll end up selling but obviously, as you said, I'm already doing that. Another thing keeping me from getting the 44 in is I'm pretty sure the ratio is not 4.10 so I will have to regear when I put it in, and I really don't want to regear the 8.8 and install the Super kit without putting a locker back there. I'd like to have an OX installed. But who knows, maybe I can afford that by the end of next summer. Do the install next winter break.

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post #1926 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:12 PM
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Was just posting it as an example of a cheap alloy rim, steelies would be even cheaper. I have a couple sets of 4.10 gears for a d44 if you want one (from when I regeared my LJ). You are wanting to do your own gear work right? Would make for good practice. Oh, and confirm what the gear ratio is in that 44 because 4.10 was a factory ratio for a waggy.
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post #1927 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Was just posting it as an example of a cheap alloy rim, steelies would be even cheaper. I have a couple sets of 4.10 gears for a d44 if you want one (from when I regeared my LJ). You are wanting to do your own gear work right? Would make for good practice. Oh, and confirm what the gear ratio is in that 44 because 4.10 was a factory ratio for a waggy.
That's always an option I suppose. Again with the "do it twice" method but whatever works. I'd certainly prefer to do the gear work myself but I need a good teacher (IIRC you have someone do your gears right?). I neglected to check the gear ratio when I bought it because he included the 4.88 gears, which is what I was going for anyways, plus I don't think he really knew, for the same reason.

That would cut me down to:

3-link materials (Duroflex)
All 6 mounts
Ruffstuff steering
Rotors
Spindles & Bearings
Wheels/Tires

I'd have to also get a mini install kit for the 4.88s. I need to figure out the steering so I can decide if I need to get a knuckle and arms or not. Also would have to install the Super 88 without the regear, which isn't a big deal.

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post #1928 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:37 PM
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I've got a dude for gears up by the lake, he did mine for $350.

My Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/back-black-2000-tj-build-1237980/
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post #1929 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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I've got a dude for gears up by the lake, he did mine for $350.
Well, like he said, I would rather try it myself with help. Since the 44's sitting in a garage right now and not under my Jeep it's not a major issue if I **** up.

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post #1930 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sjones26573 View Post

That's always an option I suppose. Again with the "do it twice" method but whatever works. I'd certainly prefer to do the gear work myself but I need a good teacher (IIRC you have someone do your gears right?). I neglected to check the gear ratio when I bought it because he included the 4.88 gears, which is what I was going for anyways, plus I don't think he really knew, for the same reason.

That would cut me down to:

3-link materials (Duroflex)
All 6 mounts
Ruffstuff steering
Rotors
Spindles & Bearings
Wheels/Tires

I'd have to also get a mini install kit for the 4.88s. I need to figure out the steering so I can decide if I need to get a knuckle and arms or not. Also would have to install the Super 88 without the regear, which isn't a big deal.
Yeah, I get my gear work done cheap by a friend. If you are doing heim steering this is how I would do it:

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post #1931 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I get my gear work done cheap by a friend. If you are doing heim steering this is how I would do it:

I figure I'll have to do something like that to avoid frame interference, although I was thinking tie rod above the arm. And I'll have to mod the TNT truss, since I ordered it with crossover TB mount.

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post #1932 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by sjones26573 View Post
I figure I'll have to do something like that to avoid frame interference, although I was thinking tie rod above the arm. And I'll have to mod the TNT truss, since I ordered it with crossover TB mount.
That setup doesn't use a high steer knuckle. To mount the tie rod over the knuckle safely would require inverted T steering, which blows. You can still use the crossover bracket for the strack bar with that setup, you just have to compensate with the frame-side mount and the pitman arm.
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post #1933 of Old 12-03-2013, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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That setup doesn't use a high steer knuckle. To mount the tie rod over the knuckle safely would require inverted T steering, which blows. You can still use the crossover bracket for the strack bar with that setup, you just have to compensate with the frame-side mount and the pitman arm.
Right. So you're saying you can't do this safely:



Which I would have to agree it seems like that puts a hell of a lot of shear force on the bolt.

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post #1934 of Old 12-03-2013, 07:00 PM
Jankoid
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Right. So you're saying you can't do this safely:



Which I would have to agree it seems like that puts a hell of a lot of shear force on the bolt.
People have done it but that just looks scary to me. I wouldn't trust that bolt to keep my tires pointing down the road.
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post #1935 of Old 12-03-2013, 07:02 PM
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He also welded this to his knuckle to put the drag link in double sheer:

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