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Unread 02-01-2013, 10:53 PM   #76
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJdualsport View Post
A true truss goes hub to hub. Everything else I would consider a bridge. The goal is to disperse the stress as much as possible Incorperating the center section. A prerunner axle sees a ton of different stress then a rock crawler. Best route is a 9" since the center section is not cast.
My last truss front axle we built.
I'm aware of that. this truss will go all the way to the flange. but I havent mounted the spring perches yet. the perches will go on, then the truss will be built around them all the way to the flange.

also I sleeved the tube with .120 chromo flange to flange

and as far as the forces a pre-runner or rockcrawler sees... we have to run through the desert too .. and we don't have the luxury of running truss under the tube, since we play in the rocks too.

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Unread 02-01-2013, 11:12 PM   #77
TJdualsport
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Right on! Please don't ever take my posts the wrong way. I'm not into showing people up and being a jerk just given out info I've learned from hands on experience. Post up pics as you build that axle. I'd love to keep staring at it. I've done a lot of crawling in years past and have been doing a lot of high speed dirt the last few years. I've never seen more carnage with hd parts when pushing vehicles at speed. It's a blast goin slow and haulin buns
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Unread 02-01-2013, 11:40 PM   #78
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJdualsport View Post
Right on! Please don't ever take my posts the wrong way. I'm not into showing people up and being a jerk just given out info I've learned from hands on experience. Post up pics as you build that axle. I'd love to keep staring at it. I've done a lot of crawling in years past and have been doing a lot of high speed dirt the last few years. I've never seen more carnage with hd parts when pushing vehicles at speed. It's a blast goin slow and haulin buns
thanks. no offense taken... I'm a bigger dick on the intardnet than most. it takes a thick skin to deal with me

I'm working on getting it built... counter sunk the ruffstuff cover today. I'm gonna be working and out of town the next couple of weekends, but when I get back I'll swap it in, get the perches and shock mounts on, then finish out the truss.






and I don't feel like this is a thread hijack since I bought it from the OP
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Unread 02-01-2013, 11:47 PM   #79
TJdualsport
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Cool man myself and a friend have a full service fab shop here in Fullerton here's one of our current builds.
image-2184375218.jpg  
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Unread 02-02-2013, 12:10 AM   #80
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJdualsport View Post
Cool man myself and a friend have a full service fab shop here in Fullerton here's one of our current builds.
I'm confused... where's the axle tube?
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Unread 02-02-2013, 12:16 AM   #81
TJdualsport
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Lol it's in the back
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Unread 02-02-2013, 07:32 AM   #82
WJDesertRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJdualsport View Post
A true truss goes hub to hub. Everything else I would consider a bridge. The goal is to disperse the stress as much as possible Incorperating the center section. A prerunner axle sees a ton of different stress then a rock crawler. Best route is a 9" since the center section is not cast.
My last truss front axle we built.
How would you build a truss, not bridge with coil spring seats? Also, I was planning on just building my truss/bridge to the coils. Should I look into extending it past the coil springs.

I wish I was going with coilovers in the rear, would be so much simpler, just run a tube end to end, then mount the coils to that.
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Unread 02-02-2013, 07:49 AM   #83
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJDesertRacer

How would you build a truss, not bridge with coil spring seats? Also, I was planning on just building my truss/bridge to the coils. Should I look into extending it past the coil springs.

I wish I was going with coilovers in the rear, would be so much simpler, just run a tube end to end, then mount the coils to that.
Build them into the truss. You could make the truss really low profile, and make it flat where the coil buckets Will be and put them on the truss. You'll just have to trim or get different coils.

Or do a truss underneath if you aren't worried about ground clearance.

A sleeve will help you too.
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Unread 02-02-2013, 08:25 AM   #84
WJDesertRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit View Post

Build them into the truss. You could make the truss really low profile, and make it flat where the coil buckets Will be and put them on the truss. You'll just have to trim or get different coils.

Or do a truss underneath if you aren't worried about ground clearance.

A sleeve will help you too.
I'd like to believe I'm building a hammers rig (it will never see the JV). A good go fast crawler. My 8.8 is out of a bronco. You thought the axle I sold you was heavy, this one is worse. If the funding can come through I'm still not against coilovers so we will see. How did you cut your plate out, and what thickness did you use.
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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wj-west-coast-style-1172706/[/url]
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Unread 02-02-2013, 01:38 PM   #85
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJDesertRacer

I'd like to believe I'm building a hammers rig (it will never see the JV). A good go fast crawler. My 8.8 is out of a bronco. You thought the axle I sold you was heavy, this one is worse. If the funding can come through I'm still not against coilovers so we will see. How did you cut your plate out, and what thickness did you use.
3/16". I made cardboard templates, traced them and used a plasma cutter. They came out pretty good, did it freehand, so they aren't perfect, but nothing I'm worried about.

I thought that axle was heavy before I added an extra 40lbs... Now I can barely carry it unloaded by myself.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 09:28 AM   #86
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Weight is another reason I like using tube instead of plate. I wonder what the differince would be With a tube with .120 plate to box it in vs a .188 or .25 all plate truss would be. And yes weight does matter. Unsprung weight is harder to control.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 09:29 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJdualsport
Weight is another reason I like using tube instead of plate. I wonder what the differince would be With a tube with .120 plate to box it in vs a .188 or .25 all plate truss would be. And yes weight does matter. Unsprung weight is harder to control.
I totally agree, I would've done a tube truss, but I can't bend tube...




Yet.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 10:13 AM   #88
WJDesertRacer
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I was going to make a bridge out of .188 1-1/2x3 square stock. Thinkin bout switching to ..025 1-3/4 tube. Save a little weight.

Taylor, I have a bender, but only have 1-3/4 die. Let me know if you wanna come use it.
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Your WJ is cool but mines faster in the dirt

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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wj-west-coast-style-1172706/[/url]
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Unread 02-05-2013, 10:27 AM   #89
TJdualsport
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The square tube will make it easier to mount your coils and such and be plenty strong. The more design and time you can put into it the better off you will be. You can even cut circles and dimple dye material to save weight and keep strength. Both of you guys have a good handle on fab either which way you go you will be fine.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 10:53 PM   #90
WJDesertRacer
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With TDS approaching I decided it would be a good time to finish up some loose ends on the jeep. When I parted out the bronco I kept the fuel tank and rear axle. Now it was time to get those in the jeep. I tackled the tank first.
Here is the jeep before



I started playing around with fuel lines and found that I could just switch the lines on the jeep tank to the bronco tank. I had to change which line was return and supply but after that the jeep fired right up and ran with the bigger tank and ford sending unit. After some careful plasma cutting I took out the floor and fit the tank. I decided it was easier to run tubes under tank for support rather than make ford skid plate fit.

The tubes run under the tank to protect from large objects and the tank is steel so any small rocks will just decrease the 32 gallon capacity. I move the filter/regulator up to be more at tank level and hooked up the wiring.


I spent the majority of the weekend built the axle truss, regearing axle and fitting it into jeep. I replaced the weak upper Y-link with a new tube piece and heims. I want it to be longer but given the time constraints I had to keep it short. I figure it will just be the jeep geometry but work better.

Finially with the floor cut and tank raised I figured for safety Id put some steel between me and the fuel. I firewall is crude but it should keep most of the dust out and keep the driver compartment from the outside.


Still to do are coilover mounts, driveshafts, brakes, final axle assembly and prep. Should have it all done in 10 days. Gonna be a lot of late nights.
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Your WJ is cool but mines faster in the dirt

IFS WJ dual sport
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wj-west-coast-style-1172706/[/url]
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