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Unread 08-18-2014, 07:57 PM   #1
Showjyr
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Winter Build

I've done a lot to the ol Golden Eagle since I bought it last year but I want to do some serious upgrades this winter. I've looked through lots of build threads and while the ideas might be there the funds may not so I'm going to plan on taking a good portion of our wonderful New England winter to do a full drivetrain and suspension swap. I might be crazy but this Jeep thing is like sickness.

Current setup-
Stock 4.0
Stock 6 spd
Stock NP231 with JB conversion SSYE
Tom woods rear shaft
Stock Dana 44 rear with 4:88's and Yukon Grizzly locker
Dana HP 30 front with 4:88's, Yukon Grizzly Locker, Yukon chromo shafts, Iron Rock off-road truss, C gussets, coil spring retainers, and heavy duty control arm mounts
Superlift 6" springs and shocks
UCF long arm kit
Currie Currectlynk with tie rod flip
Currie trac bar
Savvy Off-road TT/ modular under armor
Novak cable shifter
35's

Plans
GM 5.3 Gen III (lower mileage salvage, cam, and a few other goodies)
SM465 GM 4 spd (I love my 6spd but it's not going to handle the V8, 465 is easy to find, nearly bulletproof, and super low first gear)
NP205 (mates to SM465, nearly bulletproof, short, lots of upgrade options)
GM 1 ton axles (need to look into exactly what I want)
ORI struts/King coil overs
Rear stretch
Triangulated rear arms
3 link front arms
1 ton steering & PSC hydro assist
Going to shoot for at least 38's

Any input is welcome

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Unread 08-19-2014, 12:40 PM   #2
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I've been searching around and the GM Dana 60 front and 14 bolt Corporate rear seem to be plentiful and cheap. I'm limited to 5:38 gears but that should be plenty low with 38's and low gearing of the SM 465 trans.

Thoughts?
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Unread 08-24-2014, 03:35 PM   #3
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No input yet but I'll post again with a couple questions in hopes of some replies. I realize there's a lot of builds threads and while I've skimmed a lot many of them have sooo many posts it's hard to pick out relevant info.

I've decided on my axles based on a lot of reading and I'll definitely be going Dana 60/14 bolt.

I need some thoughts on my suspension....
I'm going to shoot for stretching the front at least a couple inches. What's the best way to go about this? Just move the box forward and lengthen the shaft? I read about a van steering box that was 4" shorter and supposed to be a correct fit but can't find the info again. It would allow me to move the box forward without pushing the front too far towards the bumper.

Also up front- 3 links with a trac bar or since I'm starting from scratch is it worth the hassle of trying to get the geometry right and triangulate to ditch the trac bar?

In the rear- I know I'm going to need to address the gas tank to stretch. I'm keeping the back seat so a pricey stretch tank will likely be in the future. I need some input on figuring out my geometry though...I'm going to double triangulate and try to tuck my frame side brackets up level with the frame. I need to figure out lengths though...calculator or are there basic guidelines I can go by to get my lengths right? Same applies to the front I suppose.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 06:59 PM   #4
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Really not one reply? Do I need to post pics or something to make things more interesting?

Seems like an exercise in futility to try and get any input here...
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Unread 08-26-2014, 07:24 PM   #5
'92 vegas YJ
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I'm subscribed. Waiting on pics
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~'92 YJ with many upgrades and many more calling my name..... it never ends
~'07.5 Dodge Ram Megacab 2500, 6.7L Cummins turbo diesel

April 2012, May 2013, May 2014 YJ of the month
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Unread 08-27-2014, 10:15 AM   #6
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Haha...great.

Well I'm picking up a Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear tomorrow night...they're out of an '84 srw with 65,000 on them for $600!

I'll post some pics
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Unread 08-27-2014, 03:51 PM   #7
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I like the 3 linked front in a jeep based rig only cause a true crossed 4 link gets busy with the oil pan and front drive shaft. Plus if your sticking with a steering box and no full hydro then the drag link bar might pull on the steering unless you run a track bar which your right back to a 3 link design anyways with less effort into the upper link.

Tank in the rear I'm really no help with other than to say I would run some type of cell behind the pass seat, a custom one built to fit or a off the shelf made to fit.

Steering, you will need a power steering cooler regardless if your going with assist or not, look into a stack style trans cooler, the can be fitted in front of the radiator, not the round style coolers, I'm not big fan of those not as much surface area to suck cool air over.

205, since its a Chevy 205 they all use the smaller 30 spline front output. This needs to be upgraded to a ford, dodge, or IH 205 32 spline output to really survive years of abuse. But its an easy swap and while you have the case apart grind the shift rails for a twin stick to do front digs.

Lockers, well you know how I stand. I would lock the rear in your case but weld the front till you have the cash for a full case or air locker. Are these the 373 geared axles you texted me about?

Jason.
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Unread 08-27-2014, 07:14 PM   #8
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I've got to get on figuring out my 3 link setup...I've not read much into proper geometry but understand all the basic principals and how it works.

I not only want to but need to run a stock location tank. There's already so little room that I want to keep everything out of the passenger compartment. I know Genright makes an awesome tank designed for stretches...pretty sure you even gain ground clearance over stock.

I actually have a brand new Derale ps cooler sitting in the box

Yes they are the 3.73 set...I'll be looking into what I want to do there. It needs to keep a little road manners so I'm going to look into selectable for at least the rear.
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Unread 08-28-2014, 03:16 PM   #9
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Old iron on it's way to a new home...got some work ahead of me.

image-1188840957.jpg
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Unread 08-28-2014, 04:07 PM   #10
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I see a good start!

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-28-2014, 06:09 PM   #11
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I'm hoping so. They're gonna need a serious overhaul but the new Superwinch hubs he put in have about 30 miles on them lol
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Unread 09-02-2014, 09:25 AM   #12
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I've been weighing options for my shock/spring setup and would like some opinions.

I want a compact long travel setup in one unit...of course I first looked at King and ORI. Both outstanding products from everything I've read but the ORI seem like they're fairly complicated to set up and get tuned correctly...and they are big money. The Kings seem a little more simple set up wise and the price is less of a shock.

What else is out there? I'd like to be somewhere in the 12" or maybe 14" travel range if I can get away with it not setting my ride height too high.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 10:30 AM   #13
84jeepcj7rock
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I love my King c/o's. I thought they were easy to set up and I had zero experience with them. Set them at 150 psi and then play with spring rates and preload. King will swap out the first set of springs at no charge.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 10:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84jeepcj7rock
I love my King c/o's. I thought they were easy to set up and I had zero experience with them. Set them at 150 psi and then play with spring rates and preload. King will swap out the first set of springs at no charge.
Did you go with the dual rate springs? And what length shock?
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Unread 09-09-2014, 03:18 PM   #15
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I just discovered the 205 transfer I'll be using is the 1970 and later 30 spline front output shaft...not the 10 spline. With a little modification to the flange I can use the newer 3r CV with1350 joints.

I'm also trying to work out a deal for a wrecked 2000 Chevy pickup with a 5.3 liter and 112k miles...that would complete the major parts of my drivetrain including computer!
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