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XJ Rail Sale!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!Vanco Big Brake Kit Promotion!

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Unread 11-30-2013, 08:59 PM   #16
01LimitedXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix View Post
Make sure you anti-seize on those threads, RK rod ends tend to lock on to the treads of there arms and never let go.
Yea...i antiseize everything i install...

Upper arms are in:


Dropped the skid and transfercase, im working on the SYE:


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Unread 12-02-2013, 10:40 AM   #17
01LimitedXJ
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alright...here is a basic run through of the SYE install:

a good quality set of snap ring pliers is a MUST, also rtv sealant, and a basic socket set, plus torque wrench, and i think 1 1/8th socket for the yokes.

i cut the boot on the driveshaft, and slit it off. Then took a hammer and screw driver to the outer seal:





After that, there is a snap ring seen below that will need to come off:



at this point you can remove all of the bolts holding the 2 case halfs together, and pry in two specific locations....there is an indent that is supposed to be used to help you open the case, but dont force it:




Here is what it will look like split open:
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Unread 12-02-2013, 10:45 AM   #18
01LimitedXJ
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I busted the front yoke loose at this point with my impact, and removed the shafts/chain as one:


on the bottom of the stock main shaft, there is 1 big snap ring you need to remove:


once removed, you can swap the parts over to the new shaft, and use NEW snap ring:


Then you reinstall as one with the new shaft:


clean the magnet:


clean the case halfs real well with brake parts cleaner, and remove old rtv sealant:


Then put RTV on one half, and reinstall the case half, oil pick up/oiler as one piece:
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Unread 12-02-2013, 10:53 AM   #19
01LimitedXJ
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In the above pic, a snap ring goes on after oiler, then the speedo gear, then another snap ring.

once installed like this, its a good idea to tighten up all the bolts to proper 20-25 lbs/ft holding the case halfs together. i also like to pour a tiny bit of ATF on the main shaft, so its not dry on reinstall.

Then you are ready to install the outer housing (the cover that goes over the shaft sticking up), make sure to wet the seal before you install over the shaft....

Reinstall speedometer sensor, and the two yokes. These need to be torqued to around 150 ft/lbs. I like to put a big pipe wrench on the yoke against the ground, this holds it pretty well so you get really torque it down. This is final product.... give the RTV at least a few hours before filling up the transfercase:



Sorry if i forgot anything, but hopefully that helps some other guys out...its really not bad to do by yourself, except for the whole benchpressing it in and out of the vehicle part ha.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 12:01 PM   #20
jeepwrangler97
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What kind of soft top is that?

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Unread 12-02-2013, 12:14 PM   #21
01LimitedXJ
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Bestop Trektop...only thing i dont like, is it does not have removable side windows
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Unread 12-02-2013, 12:42 PM   #22
jeepwrangler97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01LimitedXJ View Post
Bestop Trektop...only thing i dont like, is it does not have removable side windows
Gotcha, I forgot about the original trektop.

I like your build btw

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Unread 12-02-2013, 09:00 PM   #23
01LimitedXJ
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Thanks man!
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Unread 12-16-2013, 02:20 PM   #24
01LimitedXJ
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Currie front lower control arms and a HD tie rod are ordered!
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Unread 12-16-2013, 02:22 PM   #25
Hendrix
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You about to get it drivable again?
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Unread 12-16-2013, 03:21 PM   #26
01LimitedXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix View Post
You about to get it drivable again?
Yep...working on getting new cv rear driveshaft, and i need those new arms to get more caster. I have the uppers adjusted all the way in, still not enough.

I also have a random clunk coming from the front, once i figure that out ill be good ha.
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Unread 12-26-2013, 06:23 PM   #27
01LimitedXJ
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i got the currie lower fronts installed yesterday.


compared to stock:


stock bushing condition:



still trying to track to down a noise, and get a rear driveshaft made.
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Unread 01-04-2014, 09:00 PM   #28
01LimitedXJ
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knocked out a few things today...

cut up stock XJ front driveshaft:


took a piece of tubing...made it an internal sleeve. if you look close, you can see i used a grinder to make a flat spot on the tube. this is so it will clear the weld seam on the driveshaft. (you can see a little bump if you look close)

This flat spot is also key to realigning both ends of the driveshaft...


At this point i tacked the sleeve to the driveshaft, so it wouldnt slide in any more...then i slid (hammered) the other end onto the sleeve...with the weld seams lined up on that flat spot i made.


Left enough room to weld it real good:





All welded up, and while it cooled, i installed my double adjustable RK upper arms in the rear. This is so i can point the pinion up towards the transfercase...now that it has an SYE installed.




Need to double check my pinion angle tomorrow, but its all together. Test drive tomorrow.

This will get my by til i have another XJ shaft retubed (professionally)...and will be a good trail spare.
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Unread 02-14-2014, 09:15 AM   #29
01LimitedXJ
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few more updates...

installed rough country hd tie rod, and did a DIY alignment, set toe in to 1/16" of an inch.



I wasnt really getting much heat, which is a clear indication that something is wrong, since the 4.0's run pretty warm...changed out my thermostat...yep it was needed:

I used a stant 195 degree, and it runs perfect now.

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Unread 02-16-2014, 06:02 PM   #30
01LimitedXJ
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Putting my tax return to good use...picked up a dynomax cat back exhaust, and magnaflow universal cat. I went with the universal because its 89 dollars, whereas the bolt in version is a few hundred bux.



The new cat is quite a bit slimmer, and lighter:




I need the clean the end of the pipe, but its fully installed:


muffler is just a hair smaller than stock one:



Here you can see ive gained some room under the skid:


I am very happy with this exhaust. At lower rpms, it is just a bit louder than stock, with a slightly deeper note. At highway speeds i dont notice it over the wind noise. And now i will be able to pass emissions, as my stock muffler had a hole in it. Everything clears great, it just required a bit of welding to get the universal cat to fit.

Now...the extra room will come in handy when i install this:


rokmen high clearance skid, this thing is beefy, all 1/4 inch steel:

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