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Unread 05-13-2012, 01:12 AM   #796
lildutchboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
The Saga of The Problematic Rear Shock...Concluded.


Or we'll just go all Muppet Labs on it and find out, ourselves...
Nice forearms! I'll add just one more small quote from the book of Luke*:

"I don't care if it rains or freezes I have got my plastic Jesus** sittin' on the dashboard of my car..."

*that would be the one with the cool hand, not the one that would violate one of the four cardinal rules of The Republic of Dave.

** pronounced "Hay-soose" for reasons quoted above.

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Unread 05-13-2012, 01:42 AM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lildutchboy View Post
Nice forearms! I'll add just one more small quote from the book of Luke*:

"I don't care if it rains or freezes I have got my plastic Jesus** sittin' on the dashboard of my car..."

*that would be the one with the cool hand, not the one that would violate one of the four cardinal rules of The Republic of Dave.

** pronounced "Hay-soose" for reasons quoted above.
for some reason, that reminds me of this:

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CRAWLEY'S STORY <3 (sort of a build thread)
FOR SALE: SOFT TOP WITH FRAME FROM A 99
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Unread 05-13-2012, 02:44 PM   #798
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The man in that video, when talking, he kinda sounds like the joker in the dark knight rises..
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Unread 05-13-2012, 05:16 PM   #799
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Worries...

Condensed Version: I tried to tell myself that it wasn't happening but the unavoidable truth is that Greta is burning nearly a quart of oil between changes...and her oil is changed like clockwork every three months. Compounding this problem is the fact that she often doesn't see three thousand miles in those three-month periods: most of the time it's less than two thousand. I momentarily thought that this might be due to oil infiltration in the fresh air return line, but I don't see any evidence of anything like that, and I do see 109,000 miles on the odometer. So, I think we all know where this is heading.

Actually, that's a total lie. Some of us know where this is heading. Others of us don't have a clue. Allow me to digress...

Where This Is Heading - An Overly-Long Explanation: All engines burn a bit of oil, and losing a quart every three thousand miles is really nothing to worry about...pending that you live in 1955. For those of us that either do not or did not live in 1955, the following must be understood: sixty years ago the machining tolerances, seals, rings, bearings and oils of the time allowed a quart of oil to be burned between changes with no real ill effects. In fact, this was often expected...the cars of the time required moderate service after approximately three-thousand miles of driving, and if you didn't check out your oil, filters, points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, carb jets, chokes on or about that specific mileage interval...well, your car would start to run really badly. That's where the whole concept of the "tune up" came from...cars actually needed tuning up...but this isn't as true, anymore. Engines made in the modern age - even our antiquated 4.0's - are built to tighter tolerances and have better systems at their disposal. Between the advances in distributorless ignitions and our vastly improved filtration and petroleum technologies, we're not as subject to the "every three months or three thousand miles" rule. Engines just don't fall out of tune or wear like they used to, and that's a great thing...and it also tells us that when you start seeing moderate oil consumption, it is likely that you've got a problem somewhere.

Finding the exact source of this kind of problem is usually either very easy or very difficult because excess oil consumption usually comes from a limited number of sources. The easily found ones are - naturally - leaks...and I'm talking to you, here, Rear Main Seal. Leaks are usually easy to find and easy to repair: the oil pan, valve cover and main seals are the traditional culprits, and while none are really fun to fix they're also not disastrous. The disastrous part comes when you're losing oil and have no evidence of its passage...because this can mean that it's seeping through into the combustion chambers. It usually does this by working its way through valve seats and guides, or by seeping its way around the piston rings. In either case you won't be able to tell until you pull the engine apart.

Pictured: Unless, of course, there's obvious evidence at the tailpipe.




That, my darlings, is a ring of discoloration provided by soot...and it's a direct result of overly-large amounts of oil being burned in the combustion chambers. When it was dry there was a nice, powdery, caked-on layer in residence...but the rain washed most of it off.

Since there's no oil being sucked through the fresh air return line it had to bei either coming up from the crankcase or down from above...and in each instance, well, it really doesn't matter...there's still oil being burned and that's a big indicator for excess wear on the internals. What's worse is that this kind of excess wear is progressive...it doesn't just randomly stop and no longer get worse. When you see signs of burning oil you're usually headed to one highly specific end...and this highly-specific end also happens to be the long-delayed answer to the "Where This Is Headed" statement above.

Eventually, I'm going to build an engine.

Hmm...

Post-Script: Carbon fouling is not always an indication of excess oil being burned...sometimes it just builds up over time. However, it's building up QUICKLY on Greta's tailpipe, and there are signs of it on the spark plugs, too. Taken together with her sudden increase in oil use and a lack of other evidence...it's a logical conclusion. Don't assume that - just because you see soot - your engine is about to die. That's likely not the case...and Greta's engine isn't likely to die, either, anytime soon. But there will come a time when a rebuild/replacement is necessary, and this post reflects my understanding of such an eventuality...and hopefully piques some reader interest, here and there.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 05:42 PM   #800
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4.6 stroker?
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Unread 05-13-2012, 05:46 PM   #801
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so is that excitement or trepidation i see in your resolution?
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CRAWLEY'S STORY <3 (sort of a build thread)
FOR SALE: SOFT TOP WITH FRAME FROM A 99
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Unread 05-13-2012, 07:06 PM   #802
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Originally Posted by misterpookie View Post
so is that excitement or trepidation i see in your resolution?
Perhaps both? Excitement at the number of sammies needed to finish the job; trepidation at having to do the job in the first place.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 07:21 PM   #803
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so is that excitement or trepidation i see in your resolution?
Bemusement. I'd not planned on building an engine and - independently of the sheer fun of taking on such a project - I really don't care for the prospect of doing so, as it will put other projects on hold. But, my existent plans may have to change...one cannot know what the Jeep Gods and the Wasteland have in store for them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unholycowgod View Post
Perhaps both? Excitement at the number of sammies needed to finish the job; trepidation at having to do the job in the first place.
You got it backwards, actually. Sammiches are a highly-accurate measure of both the time and funding required to finish any given project. Most of what I've done so far have been two-sammich jobs at the most. An engine build...yowza. That's a twenty-sammicher if I've ever seen one. But there's nothing difficult about it...thus, the trepidation relates to the sammiches and the excitement to the task itself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwbrown View Post
4.6 stroker?
You got the "stroker" part correct, but you were a bit off on the "4.6" portion. Since anything that's worth doing is worth overdoing, I'm leaning heavily towards a full five-liter displacement. If I have to go through the trouble of pulling and replacing an engine, I'm going to build one that's hellishly mean.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 07:49 PM   #804
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Well, if its worth overdoing, scratch stroking it. Treat it like a good woman would treat you; Stroked and blown. Supercharge that ****.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 08:06 PM   #805
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Well, if its worth overdoing, scratch stroking it. Treat it like a good woman would treat you; Stroked and blown. Supercharge that ****.
I suppose I could, as long as I've got someone else around to help me pick up the pieces of my transmission when I let the clutch out the first time.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #806
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I'll volunteer!
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Unread 05-13-2012, 08:56 PM   #807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner

I suppose I could, as long as I've got someone else around to help me pick up the pieces of my transmission when I let the clutch out the first time.
Solution? Upgrade the transmission. Transfer case becomes the weak link? Put an Atlas II under there. Axles become the weak point? I hear spidertrax 9 inches are pretty cool, and beefy. Chassis can't Handel the power? Tube buggy!
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Unread 05-13-2012, 10:07 PM   #808
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Pass on the inline all together and go with a v8 in your prefered flavor.

I mean seriously the jeep 4.0 is a decent engine but it is an old design and truthfully it isnt the perfect jeep powerplant most try to claim.
For instance a rubicon comes with 4.11 gears and 31" tires and people are going down as far as 5.13 and sometimes even lower to run 35" tires.
Now a fullsize GM pickup comes with 31" tires and 3.73 gears but even when lifted and run on 35" tires they dont suffer a huge power loss like you would in a jeep. lots of people run their big tires on the stock gears and do just fine in a fullsize GM. and when they do re-gear for 35's iits usually only down to 4.11 or 4.56 gears.

Now some will say but then you need better axles and trans and transfer case. Well in my case I drive an SE with d30/d35 I would agree. But even the fairly smallish d44 in the rubicons should handle a V8 and conservitive driving. Also In my research and based on my real life experiance a GM LS engine/4L60e-GM231 or 241 should occupy the same space the current jeep drive train does. Furthermore it should weigh close to the same due to the 4.0 being a heavy pig of an engine.

In real life even going to a GM 4.3v6 will give you simular power numbers (in better RPM range) as the jeep 4.0 AND come in near 150-200lbs lighter *better power to weight ratio* There are a few different v8 options as well. Probably the most appealing GM offerings are the 4.8V8 *almost as cheap as a 4.3V6* and the 5.3V8 in either iron block or more desirable alum block.

I am convinced that any of these options would be cheaper and more bang for the buck than a high dollar stroker build. Admittedly I am a GM fan but when you really crunch numbers you will see the power output comes in the RPM range best suited to off road applications. I have looked at both mopar and ford offerings and usually their power is much higher in the rpm range than I would like. Also the aftermarket is HUGE for GM swaps and generally more cost effective than other makes.

Just food for thought. The stroker=20 samich job I think a GM swap would cut that down by 3-4 samiches and would be money better spent.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 10:12 PM   #809
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I have to agree go BIG or go home.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 10:29 PM   #810
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I'll jump in from the peanut gallery as well. While I'm not a specific GM fan, Balzer makes some very valid points. A 5.0 stroker will be powerful but also be less reliable as a factory engine. Not to mention it'll be pushed to its limit. Any V8 swap with a factory spec motor that gets you to the same power numbers is a huge bonus in my book and if you decide you want even more power, you are on a higher level to start from. Through the years at my old work, I saw everything from big strokers to California smog legal V8 swaps in just about everything. While the V8 seems like a daunting task (especially when it comes to smog laws), it just makes more sense in the long run. For a daily driven vehicle that doesn't have to abide by any spec class race rules, why not? Not really any more work than a full tilt stroker build. If anything, you could probably do more of it yourself. No custom machining you need to take the block in for, etc. You have certainly proven yourself as a meticulous/detail oriented person; you can easily complete the job and have it done right. If you have smog laws to deal with, consult your local smog referee before you do the job. Go with notes and talk to them about what they like to see when dealing with conversions. If we can stuff a 6.1L HEMI into a JK Wrangler here in smog hell California, you can do just about anything. It's all in how you go about it.

Not to mention the fact that there are so many of those V8s running around, finding parts at the local auto parts store, parts store near the trail or savaging vehicles in the Wasteland, you're more likely to find the pieces you need, in stock and ready to go.
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