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ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail ANOTHER Rockridge4wd Creation!! Spare Tire Carrier Delete

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Unread 04-02-2014, 07:21 PM   #6526
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
I believe you can put a piece of brass (I think) behind the hole & then fill it in with weld. The weld doesn't stick to the brass. Saw a video by Jody on YouTube, but that's all I know, or don't know about that subject. Lol!
Copper works too and it pulls a lot of heat out .

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
I have yet to master that technique, lol!
Feed a tig filler rod in while you swirl the puddle around the perimeter of the hole . It fills in holes on trailer tubs nicely .

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Unread 04-02-2014, 07:25 PM   #6527
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CEScuzzy View Post
I'm admittedly a bit new to the 4.0L, but the 3000-odd miles I've put on my last WIX filter have treated me right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
I run the MoPar filters on both of my rigs with very little start up noise . I also run VR1 Valvoline oil .
I figured that Wix and Mopar would get brought up; I'll look around and see what I can find. I'm more inclined to go with Wix since they probably have a Ford FL1A crossover...but if Mopar has an extra-capacity model, I'd go for that as well. I hadn't really thought about using VR1...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
I just used some scrap pieces of 1/8" flat stock behind the bumper to weld up the factory holes.
I'm going to go back through your build and look at the bumper fab; I recall some of it, but since you've been there and done that I think I'd benefit from another perusal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LA-Sahara View Post
I got lucky with my HId retrofit and did it for cheap only because I got the Projectors, bulbs, and ballasts for free from a neighbor. But it also took a lot of work getting the HUGE murano projectors in the housing. Instead of building a housing, why not just use the JK housings? TRS's mini H1 or D2S projectors bolt right to them. (Unless the BMW projectors were free?)
Let's just say that I found the BMW headlights sitting beside a dumpster and decided that I needed to take them home with me...

I didn't know that the Mini D2S directly bolted to the JK housing; that's very good information. I'll have to look up some pictures or tutorials on it. Also, as for the "why build a housing" question...well, I really don't have a reason for that other than wanting to practice composite work and to do something to get this projector project on the road. I mean, for reals, we gots faces to melt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CEScuzzy View Post
I took an autobody repair course a few years ago, and there is a way to fill in holes in sheet metal using only a MIG welder. You basically deposit small amounts of weld bead to the edges of the hole and fill it in gradually. I'm not saying I was ever Good at it, but it can be done with enough patience and practice.
Oh, man...if it takes Welding Skillz to do that, I'm out of luck. I'm also out of luck with Today's Jeeping: the power steering pump replacement was easy as pie, but it also didn't get rid of The Elusive Accessory Drive Noise. While I was messing around with getting the new pump installed I swapped serpentine belts with Annabelle's LJ just to make sure that the belt itself wasn't a factor...and it wasn't; there was no change at all. In fact, things may be a bit noisier now than they were because I probably don't have all of the air out of the power steering system and the pump is whining a bit...so after all of my efforts today I've only succeeded in making things marginally worse.

After the new pump was installed my dad and I listened to the engine for awhile...and although he couldn't decisively pinpoint the location of The Noise, he seemed to think that it was coming from the water pump/fan clutch area. The one thing that points me in the direction of a fan clutch being the issue is the fact that The Noise doesn't show up until the 1500 RPM area and - here's the critical part - it doesn't get proportionately louder after about 2300 RPM. I gave the clutch a good look-see and didn't see any fluid, and I also tried to rock it back and forth on its bearing...but there was only the acceptable amount of play present. It's also not free-spinning when the engine is at temperature and shut down, so that's not really indicating a bad clutch either...but the lack of those symptoms also doesn't rule it out. So, I guess I'm going to try to pop it loose this weekend and see if I have any luck with it...and the clutch turns out to be the source of The Elusive Accessory Drive Noise I'll have to send a sixer of booze to whomsoever posited that suggestion a few days ago.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 07:48 PM   #6528
LA-Sahara
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Not sure how much you've looked into the mini H1 or D2S projectors, but they have a threaded shaft on the back of them so they can be bolted through the stock headlight hole (that's why they are supposed to be a quick retrofit projector) and they just happen to fit in the JK housings nicely since they have the bubbled out lense.

Ideas:http://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-el...ofit-228305/#b
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Unread 04-02-2014, 08:02 PM   #6529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
A bit of catch-up, here...

The housings should fit anything that takes a 7" round fixture, providing that you have enough room behind the mounting/alignment ring to clear the full depth of the housing itself; on a TJ, there's a healthy amount of extra space. However, there's an unrelated problem: I got word today that there's an indefinite delay on the release of the Sealed7's due to some manufacturing issues with the material...so there's no telling when they will actually become available. For this reason, I'm very, very close to laying up my own housings; I can't see why I wouldn't be able to manufacture something equal or superior to the TRS offering. It may take some time to get them "right" and up to my own personal standards, but that's just the way things are; if TRS can build them, so can I.

Right now, my plan is to cut it to about 38" and use part of the leftover ends to make a nice, clean closure on the ends of the cut bumper. I do like the idea of frenching in some lights, but according to the rough calculations I did yesterday there's only a little more than 1" separating the face of the factory bumper from the crossmember tube...so that makes a frenched-in light somewhat problematic.

Aside from that, I have two more problems: I need to come up with a way to cleanly weld the factory-drilled holes in the bumper closed, and I need to find a way to tie recovery points into the bumper. Normally, the recovery-point issue isn't an issue at all because steel bumpers are at least 3/16" thick...so welding a shackle mount into place isn't a big deal. The factory bumper is about half of that thickness, though - hell, it may be even thinner - so on first inspection it doesn't seem to be thick enough to take the strain that a recovery point could put on it. I'm thinking that I could either mount something back into the top of the frame - which would make a winch hoop a lot more difficult later on - or find a way to strengthen the bumper. Input is appreciated on either subject.

It's starting to look like my housings are going to cost more than $100 and take a lot of work...

That's basically how I'm looking at it; hopefully I won't mess up too many of them before I'm happy.

I might just take you up on that offer.

I remember something like that as well, now that you mention it.

Going by the measurements, they won't hit on their way up and the angle seems relatively inversion-proof...so I can probably save the caps that I would have spent on those shorter links. Thanks for the input on that, guys.

The ride is still a bit harsh, but I continue to suspect the springs more than the tires; I've ridden in several trucks that are running the AT01 and none of them are as harsh as Greta. However, the ride quality is much improved due to a better swaybar being in place, and in addition to the improvements that the swaybar itself added I'm thinking that having lost somewhere around 55 lbs. off the front end has made a difference, as well. Of course, I'll gain that weight right back when the winch gets added, but that's not what we're talking about, right now...

Knowing that I can point Greta's nose at a trail and just go is immensely satisfactory. I'd like to see how the rear changes with an Antirock in place, too...but I've got a few projects that are ahead of that one, yet. I'd like to get the outboard, track bars, steering and axle shafts taken care of, first...and the tummy and gas tank tucks, as well.

Damn...I just spent a lot of money in that sentence...

I'm thinking that I can still keep a stock-ish look while getting rid of the extra metal; that's the goal, anyway.

Hmm...I kind of like the Vault-Tec idea, myself; I might have to look into that.

Most of my plans have equal degrees of congealment and unraveling...and since I haven't yet gotten around to Today's Jeeping I'm not sure as to whether things are coming together or coming apart; I'll have to wait and examine some Brown Santa Goodness that I found just a few minutes ago, and then I'll know. Clint sent me a stock power steering pump that wasn't doing anything productive with its life, so I'm going to see what the install will require and probably go pick up some power steering fluid; with any luck, I can get the thing in place today and The Elusive Accessory Drive Noise will be a thing of the past.

Also, I'm getting a LOT of lifter tapping and lower-end knocks at startup since I changed my oil; the lower end was actually quieter right after the change, but that improvement has now vanished. I'm thinking that I might just need to go with a different oil filter; anyone have suggestions on brands with which they've had a good experience?
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Unread 04-02-2014, 08:54 PM   #6530
84jeepcj7rock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03

I have yet to master that technique, lol!
I did this to fill in some holes in my windshield frame and also the antenna holes on the side of my tub. Larger holes can be filed with a washer welded in. Take your time and turn down the amps a little. If it gets too hot you'll blow holes. It also helps to angle the tip of the gun towards the edge you are filling.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 09:18 PM   #6531
Zjones1994
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Place some copper behind it and just make a nice little circle and fill it in the. Grind smooth and apply your cpc of choice. Most likely rustoleum satin black. Worked for me on every project.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 10:49 PM   #6532
awinski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
I have yet to master that technique, lol!
thats actually what i usually do when we have small rust holes.

that antirock looks nice. id love to acquire one in the future
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Unread 04-03-2014, 04:54 AM   #6533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84jeepcj7rock View Post
If it gets too hot you'll blow holes.
Phrasing!
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Unread 04-03-2014, 06:58 AM   #6534
jrallen
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Originally Posted by redrelyt12 View Post

Phrasing!
Oh, we're still doing this? C'mon, guys!
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Unread 04-03-2014, 07:53 PM   #6535
Melissas6570
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Did you ever find out why your OME suspension or shocks became stiff? Mine has started doing the same. You hit a bumb and it feels like the suspension is solid and not moving now.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 07:57 PM   #6536
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Well, Today's Jeeping was non-existent; I worked about 14 hours and missed out on a couple of good deals on parts in the process...so that totally blows. Also, I didn't get any further with uncovering The Elusive Accessory Drive Noise, but it managed to make itself sound a bit worse, nonetheless. Finally, I noticed that the lifter tap and lower end knock were both more pronounced, too. So it's safe to say that whatever caps I earned today are pretty much already spent.

On the upside, I had a few good thoughts on how to modify a JK housing to accept the projectors I want to use, and I also appreciate all of the input on the oil and filters and methods of hole-closing. I think I'm going to give the VR1 a shot and also do a bit more research on using a copper backer to help close the holes in the bumper; I'd heard of that method before but I've never really looked into it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissas6570 View Post
Did you ever find out why your OME suspension or shocks became stiff? Mine has started doing the same. You hit a bumb and it feels like the suspension is solid and not moving now.
I haven't figured it out. All I know at this point is that the suspension is palpably stiffer than it was when I started, and that the stiffness is somehow related to the springs; those are the only piece on the suspension that hasn't been either thoroughly examined or changed out entirely. You're exactly right when you say that it feels like the suspension isn't moving at all when you hit a bump or pothole...but if you drive with your head out the window, looking at the tires and body, you can see the suspension move in response to the road. The only thing I know to do is swap the springs and see what happens...and to check the spring rates on the OME's while I have them off.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 08:53 PM   #6537
Melissas6570
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Did you change the shocks out with new ones?
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Unread 04-03-2014, 09:08 PM   #6538
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Originally Posted by Melissas6570 View Post
Did you change the shocks out with new ones?
I did, yes, and I didn't really notice much improvement. Also, barring physical damage to the shock that would prevent it from moving properly, there should be no way for the shock to cause stiffness; that was the word that came directly from OME.

I know it's a dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyway: have you checked everything that could restrict axle movement? Control arms, track bar, driveshaft, etc?
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Unread 04-03-2014, 09:42 PM   #6539
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General ride stiffness is usually caused my a mismatch of springs and dampers. I would look into getting the 3" Savvy springs with whatever shocks he recommends to you. At this point, I believe he is still recommeding the Bilsteins.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 11:04 PM   #6540
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I've noticed the same with my rk lift. Since I still have the stock springs. And plenty of clearance I might try putting them on after this weekend to see if it helps.
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