A bit of catch-up, here...
The housings should fit anything that takes a 7" round fixture, providing that you have enough room behind the mounting/alignment ring to clear the full depth of the housing itself; on a TJ, there's a healthy amount of extra space. However, there's an unrelated problem: I got word today that there's an indefinite delay on the release of the Sealed7's due to some manufacturing issues with the material...so there's no telling when they will actually become available. For this reason, I'm very, very close to laying up my own housings; I can't see why I wouldn't be able to manufacture something equal or superior to the TRS offering. It may take some time to get them "right" and up to my own personal standards, but that's just the way things are; if TRS can build them, so can I.
Right now, my plan is to cut it to about 38" and use part of the leftover ends to make a nice, clean closure on the ends of the cut bumper. I do like the idea of frenching in some lights, but according to the rough calculations I did yesterday there's only a little more than 1" separating the face of the factory bumper from the crossmember tube...so that makes a frenched-in light somewhat problematic.
Aside from that, I have two more problems: I need to come up with a way to cleanly weld the factory-drilled holes in the bumper closed, and I need to find a way to tie recovery points into the bumper. Normally, the recovery-point issue isn't an issue at all because steel bumpers are at least 3/16" thick...so welding a shackle mount into place isn't a big deal. The factory bumper is about half of that thickness, though - hell, it may be even thinner - so on first inspection it doesn't seem to be thick enough to take the strain that a recovery point could put on it. I'm thinking that I could either mount something back into the top of the frame - which would make a winch hoop a lot more difficult later on - or find a way to strengthen the bumper. Input is appreciated on either subject.
It's starting to look like my housings are going to cost more than $100 and take a lot of work...
That's basically how I'm looking at it; hopefully I won't mess up too many of them before I'm happy.
I might just take you up on that offer.
I remember something like that as well, now that you mention it.
Going by the measurements, they won't hit on their way up and the angle seems relatively inversion-proof...so I can probably save the caps that I would have spent on those shorter links. Thanks for the input on that, guys.
The ride is still a bit harsh, but I continue to suspect the springs more than the tires; I've ridden in several trucks that are running the AT01 and none of them are as harsh as Greta. However, the ride quality is much improved due to a better swaybar being in place, and in addition to the improvements that the swaybar itself added I'm thinking that having lost somewhere around 55 lbs. off the front end has made a difference, as well. Of course, I'll gain that weight right back when the winch gets added, but that's not what we're talking about, right now...
Knowing that I can point Greta's nose at a trail and just go is immensely satisfactory. I'd like to see how the rear changes with an Antirock in place, too...but I've got a few projects that are ahead of that one, yet. I'd like to get the outboard, track bars, steering and axle shafts taken care of, first...and the tummy and gas tank tucks, as well.
Damn...I just spent a lot of money in that sentence...
I'm thinking that I can still keep a stock-ish look while getting rid of the extra metal; that's the goal, anyway.
Hmm...I kind of like the Vault-Tec idea, myself; I might have to look into that.
Most of my plans have equal degrees of congealment and unraveling...and since I haven't yet gotten around to Today's Jeeping I'm not sure as to whether things are coming together or coming apart; I'll have to wait and examine some Brown Santa Goodness that I found just a few minutes ago, and then I'll know. Clint sent me a stock power steering pump that wasn't doing anything productive with its life, so I'm going to see what the install will require and probably go pick up some power steering fluid; with any luck, I can get the thing in place today and The Elusive Accessory Drive Noise will be a thing of the past.
Also, I'm getting a LOT of lifter tapping and lower-end knocks at startup since I changed my oil; the lower end was actually quieter right after the change, but that improvement has now vanished. I'm thinking that I might just need to go with a different oil filter; anyone have suggestions on brands with which they've had a good experience?