The Wasteland Survival Guide: Engineering Greta - Page 389 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #5821 of 8099 Old 11-17-2013, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuder View Post
Just knock off most of the rust with a wire wheel and use Chassis Saver or POR-15. Also, tell Annabelle that we miss her.
You may revamp part of that post when you see how bad it is.


If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #5822 of 8099 Old 11-17-2013, 09:57 PM
clintrivera
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[QUOTE=Sundowner;17792033
For the truly dense among us, I'll spell it out: those are .500" thick tubes that indicate a 3/4-ton front. Now, I'm a bit confused because I thought that the 3/4 ton axles were eight-lug and this one is a five-lug...but there's no arguing with that tube thickness. I'm not complaining...even if I do have to buy a set of inner C's. I'm sure Poly or somebody has them. [/QUOTE]

I think the older drum brake F100 axles were 1/2" thick.
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post #5823 of 8099 Old 11-17-2013, 11:57 PM
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I think you're a rust-ophob. That's just wrong. I was waiting for a response to the pic of my frame I posted but I assume you were avoiding it like the plague. There's a lot of discrimination in the Republic of Dave. I wish to go ahead and nominate the evil monkey from Family Guy for Governor. Just kidding. Please don't make me return my sticker.
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post #5824 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
I think the older drum brake F100 axles were 1/2" thick.
I kind of remember something about that, too, but I don't recall whether or not they were high-pinion units. I did some searching just now and it seems that the 3/4-ton HP44's were 2.75" tubes with .500"-thick walls...but I didn't find anything about the lug count, yet. I suppose it doesn't matter because I was going to a different knuckle, anyway, and after discovering the issue with the inner C's - admittedly one that's probably less severe than it appears - I may swap them as well. As expected, Poly has these available for a not-unfair price, and they're already machined for the proper tube size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric2000TJ View Post
I think you're a rust-ophob. That's just wrong. I was waiting for a response to the pic of my frame I posted but I assume you were avoiding it like the plague. There's a lot of discrimination in the Republic of Dave. I wish to go ahead and nominate the evil monkey from Family Guy for Governor. Just kidding. Please don't make me return my sticker.
I do recall that picture now, man...and it wasn't that I was avoiding it like the plague - although it IS a very scary picture to me and I'll have nightmares after looking at it again, thanks - but that I was covered up with Chicago-ing myself at the time it got posted. I wasn't ignoring it...it just slipped my mind in all that's been going on, lately. I also remember something about a chainsaw-equipped firearm that was pretty awesome; my sincerest apologies on failing to comment on both. My official statement is that you should use the chainsaw to fix your frame.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #5825 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 06:26 AM
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3/4 ton hp44s had 3" tubes and were leaf sprung. The knuckles were flat tops and didn't have the cutout for 1/2 ton breaks like yours, plus they were 8 lug. No chance of that axle being from a 3/4 ton. Ford has always been all over the place with axle tubes. It is not unusual to find one with a different tube thickness. Just count yourself as lucky that it is thicker than normal and stop fretting.
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post #5826 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
3/4 ton hp44s had 3" tubes and were leaf sprung. The knuckles were flat tops and didn't have the cutout for 1/2 ton breaks like yours, plus they were 8 lug. No chance of that axle being from a 3/4 ton. Ford has always been all over the place with axle tubes. It is not unusual to find one with a different tube thickness. Just count yourself as lucky that it is thicker than normal and stop fretting.
Oh, I'm not fretting at all... the .500" tubes are a huge bonus. I'm just confused on the tube size, because I recall you saying that the 3/4-ton stuff had the thicker 3" tubes... yet the only charts I found said that the 3/4-ton tubes are 2.75" and the 1/2-ton tubes are 3.00"... which makes very little sense to me.

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post #5827 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post

Oh, I'm not fretting at all... the .500" tubes are a huge bonus. I'm just confused on the tube size, because I recall you saying that the 3/4-ton stuff had the thicker 3" tubes... yet the only charts I found said that the 3/4-ton tubes are 2.75" and the 1/2-ton tubes are 3.00"... which makes very little sense to me.
The chart you found is wrong then.
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post #5828 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post

The chart you found is wrong then.
Simple answer, that.

Edit: Evidently, the chart was wrong; Ford used not only .500" tubes in a few HP44's, but also .250" and .375" tubes. I looked up a few Hybrid 44 builds and found some evidence that corroborates what Jankoid was saying. With that in mind...

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #5829 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Tonight's Jeeping: 60 outers on an HP44 housing. Discuss.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #5830 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 04:20 PM
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If you try to polish that axle too much you'll find out in the end that you should've just gone straight to a hp60.
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post #5831 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
If you try to polish that axle too much you'll find out in the end that you should've just gone straight to a hp60.
I'm with this guy. I would keep the stock inners and outers, run some alloy axles, and some sort of higher strength U joint if you run 37's.
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post #5832 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
If you try to polish that axle too much you'll find out in the end that you should've just gone straight to a hp60.
x3!

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post #5833 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
Tonight's Jeeping: 60 outers on an HP44 housing. Discuss.
Didn't Petersen's Four Wheel and Offroad or Four Wheeler do that a year or so ago? Are you supposed to put titles in italics or underlined? I hated English class. Anyways, I seem to remember them saying it was good, but not a full D60. I think...maybe...I don't remember...
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post #5834 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 06:21 PM
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I run with a guy who did that, actually on a dynatrac 44 center section. Let's you run the bigger splined Dana 60 stub shafts. You can also bore the 44 spindles & run 30 spline Dana 44 stub shafts if I'm not mistaken.

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post #5835 of 8099 Old 11-18-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
You can also bore the 44 spindles & run 30 spline Dana 44 stub shafts if I'm not mistaken.
Correct, but the problem is that you can't find 30 spline stubs anywhere anymore. Warn used to make them, but they no longer make shafts. RCV uses 30 spline stubs with their CV shafts, but those are expensive. Breaking a 19 spline chromo is gonna be a tough task on 35s/37s anyway, they are still bigger than a 27 spline d30 stub.
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