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Unread 07-30-2013, 02:07 PM   #5221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder6 View Post
Avoid sealed. Trust me - my jeeps driveline exploded because of waterlogged sealed spocers not being tended to properly
if he sees no water than what's the point....if you're going to get a ujoint with a zerk fitting in it make sure its in the end of the cap and not the body of the joint itself.....

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Unread 07-30-2013, 02:22 PM   #5222
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Isn't the whole point of traversing the wasteland to expect the unexpected?
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Unread 07-30-2013, 02:51 PM   #5223
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Originally Posted by spyder6 View Post
Isn't the whole point of traversing the wasteland to expect the unexpected?
That's my line of thinking; I really don't cross a lot of water or get into much mud - I hate mud like I hate rust and monkeys - but I also didn't expect to be looking around for a replacement u-joint this afternoon...so, lesson learned. In searching for Spicer joints - the local parts stores don't seem to have any, incidentally - I've halfway answered my own question about the part numbers; the 793x and 212x joints are both 1330-to-S44 joints, which is what I need. They have the exact same dimensions - source - and the only difference is that the 793x is a sealed joint while the 212x is greasable with a zerk in the body. If someone can confirm this, I'd be appreciative. In the meantime, I'm going to work on getting the nylon-filled factory joint out of the picture; hopefully, my oxy-acetylene microtorch will be up to the task. I'm thinking that I can get the factory joint removed by applying some heat to the joint caps and applying pressure with a ball joint press, or something similar. Thoughts? Tips? Tricks?
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Unread 07-30-2013, 02:57 PM   #5224
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Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
That's my line of thinking; I really don't cross a lot of water or get into much mud - I hate mud like I hate rust and monkeys - but I also didn't expect to be looking around for a replacement u-joint this afternoon...so, lesson learned. In searching for Spicer joints - the local parts stores don't seem to have any, incidentally - I've halfway answered my own question about the part numbers; the 793x and 212x joints are both 1330-to-S44 joints, which is what I need. They have the exact same dimensions - source - and the only difference is that the 793x is a sealed joint while the 212x is greasable with a zerk in the body. If someone can confirm this, I'd be appreciative. In the meantime, I'm going to work on getting the nylon-filled factory joint out of the picture; hopefully, my oxy-acetylene microtorch will be up to the task. I'm thinking that I can get the factory joint removed by applying some heat to the joint caps and applying pressure with a ball joint press, or something similar. Thoughts? Tips? Tricks?
just the "TIP": make sure you have all of the c-clips out before attempting to remove the old joint....and a balljoint press should work just fine....not sure you need to apply any heat......
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Unread 07-30-2013, 05:40 PM   #5225
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Tonight's Jeeping: I found a 793x joint for $22, including shipping...so I'm going with that. It's not greasable, but it'll work just fine for now and it will also function as a spare when I have the change to order myself a 212x. Question: is there any way to swap to a straight 1330 joint? I may have to look that up.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 10:11 PM   #5226
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Can you borrow a Gopro from somebody. Or go redneck and tape a video camera to a broomstick or go jack arse style and lye on a skate board next to the jeep of corse travelling at a safe speed,,,,,
You need Keanu Reaves, remember the movie "speed" . Yeah that will work. Lol. I hope find a solution.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 10:42 PM   #5227
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Did you torque the control arms down at ride height?
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Unread 07-31-2013, 07:29 AM   #5228
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Originally Posted by YjStrangler92 View Post
You need Keanu Reaves, remember the movie "speed" . Yeah that will work. Lol. I hope find a solution.
Do I remember that movie? I lost most of the latter half of 1994 to that film! My only complaint is that Ally Sheedy turned down the role of Annie; had she accepted, I fully believe that Speed would have been the greatest cinematic event since Wargames in 1983.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Did you torque the control arms down at ride height?
Yes, twice; once while I was installing them, and once a week or so ago just to make sure that I hadn't somehow overlooked or overtorqued something. Greta never left her normal ride height in either instance. I also took another close look at the springs; I can't see anything wrong with any of them, and that statement is made after I went so far as to check them with a micrometer to make sure that none of the coils were collapsing or showing signs of being broken. So I'm now back to having to run 20 PSI in the tires, which is only masking the problem...or at least it will be, once I pull the front driveshaft completely out. The replacement u-joint won't be here for a few days, yet, so I might as well pull the shaft out and drive without it.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 09:00 AM   #5229
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OK, I think it's time to support the frame by jack stands, pull the tires, springs and unbolt the sway bar and cycle the suspension.

On the topic of u-joints, I prefer Spicer greasable. I grease my drive shafts fairly often--after every wheeling trip and/or every ~3-4k miles.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 09:34 AM   #5230
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
OK, I think it's time to support the frame by jack stands, pull the tires, springs and unbolt the sway bar and cycle the suspension.
I'm about at that point. It's uber-frustrating to have to do so when I'm dealing with a daily driver - there's always pressure to hurry up and get her back together - but I can't seem to make any progress with this, otherwise. Maybe when I start working on the compressor re-install I can do a full cycling - I also need to fine-tune my axle location, while I'm at it - and hopefully keep my down-time to a minimum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
On the topic of u-joints, I prefer Spicer greasable. I grease my drive shafts fairly often--after every wheeling trip and/or every ~3-4k miles.
I want the 212x greasables as well, but I couldn't seem to come up with any that were 1) in stock, and 2) economical to ship. So, I figured that the 793x joint will work for now, and I'll pick up a 212x when I have some extra funding. For now, I just pulled the driveshaft so that I could still get around town; that took all of five minutes and it was impossible to photograph until it was lying on the ground.

Pictured: Which is NOT where a driveshaft is supposed to be at any point in time.




I'm still just totally befuddled by how quickly that cap came off. I literally tapped the yoke with a small hammer and the joint popped loose, and as soon as it was loose the cap just slid sideways and aimed itself straight for the floor. Thanks, gravity. I could understand this a bit easier if the cap had been pointing straight downwards, but it was facing horizontally to prevent exactly what ended up happening, anyway; I didn't even had time to grab the roll of tape I had sitting at hand, ready to wrap the joint and hold the caps in place. Now, I've started wondering whether or not there was something amiss with the joint itself...and although I'm not the world's leading expert on the internals of universal joints I can tell that there are a couple of slight differences between the contents of the two caps shown below.

Pictured: Ummm...



These are pictured exactly as they were when they came off; the one on the left is the one that swan-dived itself floorwards and consequently spilled its bearings everywhere, and it's missing two things that the right-hand cap is displaying...namely, one needle bearing and a shim of some sort. Now, normally I would say that I'd simply misplaced these very tiny parts when they hit the ground, but in this case it's really not very possible; the cap hit my hand before it hit the ground - softer, slower impact - and as it did I actually watched the bearings get gently ejected in the immediate area...and the immediate area just happened to be freshly-swept and exceptionally clean. When I got everything picked up and placed back in the cap and came up one bearing short and had found no shim I checked the joint body and the surrounding area to see if they'd stuck somewhere and never fallen to the floor; nothing to be found. So, something isn't right, here - all the more reason to replace the joint - and I kind of wonder if someone didn't have this thing apart at some point in time and accidentally lose some parts, or if it was assembled this way at the factory. There's no telling...but it's damned sure not okay, now. I'm sort of glad this happened, in a sick way.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 09:48 AM   #5231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
I'm about at that point. It's uber-frustrating to have to do so when I'm dealing with a daily driver - there's always pressure to hurry up and get her back together - but I can't seem to make any progress with this, otherwise. Maybe when I start working on the compressor re-install I can do a full cycling - I also need to fine-tune my axle location, while I'm at it - and hopefully keep my down-time to a minimum.



I want the 212x greasables as well, but I couldn't seem to come up with any that were 1) in stock, and 2) economical to ship. So, I figured that the 793x joint will work for now, and I'll pick up a 212x when I have some extra funding. For now, I just pulled the driveshaft so that I could still get around town; that took all of five minutes and it was impossible to photograph until it was lying on the ground.

Pictured: Which is NOT where a driveshaft is supposed to be at any point in time.




I'm still just totally befuddled by how quickly that cap came off. I literally tapped the yoke with a small hammer and the joint popped loose, and as soon as it was loose the cap just slid sideways and aimed itself straight for the floor. Thanks, gravity. I could understand this a bit easier if the cap had been pointing straight downwards, but it was facing horizontally to prevent exactly what ended up happening, anyway; I didn't even had time to grab the roll of tape I had sitting at hand, ready to wrap the joint and hold the caps in place. Now, I've started wondering whether or not there was something amiss with the joint itself...and although I'm not the world's leading expert on the internals of universal joints I can tell that there are a couple of slight differences between the contents of the two caps shown below.

Pictured: Ummm...



These are pictured exactly as they were when they came off; the one on the left is the one that swan-dived itself floorwards and consequently spilled its bearings everywhere, and it's missing two things that the right-hand cap is displaying...namely, one needle bearing and a shim of some sort. Now, normally I would say that I'd simply misplaced these very tiny parts when they hit the ground, but in this case it's really not very possible; the cap hit my hand before it hit the ground - softer, slower impact - and as it did I actually watched the bearings get gently ejected in the immediate area...and the immediate area just happened to be freshly-swept and exceptionally clean. When I got everything picked up and placed back in the cap and came up one bearing short and had found no shim I checked the joint body and the surrounding area to see if they'd stuck somewhere and never fallen to the floor; nothing to be found. So, something isn't right, here - all the more reason to replace the joint - and I kind of wonder if someone didn't have this thing apart at some point in time and accidentally lose some parts, or if it was assembled this way at the factory. There's no telling...but it's damned sure not okay, now. I'm sort of glad this happened, in a sick way.
I certainly agree with this statement...ask me how i know:

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Unread 07-31-2013, 09:54 AM   #5232
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I'm thinking now would be a good time to try and get some grease in that cv yoke if possible. Angry sparrows are no fun at all!
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Unread 07-31-2013, 10:00 AM   #5233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
Do I remember that movie? I lost most of the latter half of 1994 to that film! My only complaint is that Ally Sheedy turned down the role of Annie; had she accepted, I fully believe that Speed would have been the greatest cinematic event since Wargames in 1983.

Ok, this is the one place in this thread I will have to "strenuously object!". Althoug Allie sheedy would have made the movie better, and for as much as I think keano was meant to play neo, I think he would have had to be replaced too to put this movie at the level of Wargames... But I digress...
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Unread 07-31-2013, 10:12 AM   #5234
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Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
I'm thinking now would be a good time to try and get some grease in that cv yoke if possible. Angry sparrows are no fun at all!
Agreed... The shaft is already out. Rebuild it and clean up/ grease the centering ball yoke. Then it's one less thing you need to think about. I just went through this myself last week.


Also... not sure if it's because of differences with the rubicon, but on my X all three u-joints were the same. I replaced them all with the greaseable spicer 5-153x as seen in Stu's writeup on the matter.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 10:25 AM   #5235
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Looks like the caps are missing the seals too.
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