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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:17 AM   #5101
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When setting the axle's position, note that arm length really doesn't matter. The axles being 1) square to the frame, 2) square to each other and with 3) proper pinion angle and caster 4) while being laterally centered at ride height is what matters. And at full bump, you want the upper and lower coil buckets to be concentric fore-aft. They won't be centered side to side due to the track bars' influence on that axis of travel.

More times than not, the frame and axle brackets aren't perfectly symmetrical so in order to achieve the above, pairs of arms (uppers/lowers) will need to differ in respective lengths a bit. This is normal. With the jack supporting the pinion in your desired position, you should be able to adjust the arms so that the bolt floats right through. If you have to use a ratchet strap, you're forcing things and are creating unnecessary bind.....Clevite bushings really don't like that.

I think you already know this but I just want to make sure you get that thing setup perfectly.

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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:30 AM   #5102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Do you have an air hammer? They make removing stubborn bolts easy.
I wish I had one of those.

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Originally Posted by WranglerRouser View Post
Very Insightful!
Thank you! I hope it helps!

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Originally Posted by StuddMuffinz View Post
Just replaced my uppers as well, and the best method I could deduce for removing those obtrusive brake-line brackets was to use two sets of vice-grips (one on the flat "tab" and one on the outer edge of the rounded "tube" itself) to –little-by-little– peel the bracket away from the line itself. Requires some elbow-grease, but leaves the lines clean and intact.
They're that soft? Sweet! I have LOTS of Vise Grips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
When setting the axle's position, note that arm length really doesn't matter. The axles being 1) square to the frame, 2) square to each other and with 3) proper pinion angle and caster 4) while being laterally centered at ride height is what matters. And at full bump, you want the upper and lower coil buckets to be concentric fore-aft. They won't be centered side to side due to the track bars' influence on that axis of travel.

More times than not, the frame and axle brackets aren't perfectly symmetrical so in order to achieve the above, pairs of arms (uppers/lowers) will need to differ in respective lengths a bit. This is normal. With the jack supporting the pinion in your desired position, you should be able to adjust the arms so that the bolt floats right through. If you have to use a ratchet strap, you're forcing things and are creating unnecessary bind.....Clevite bushings really don't like that.

I think you already know this but I just want to make sure you get that thing setup perfectly.
I agree 100%, which is why I stopped sweating the arm length. I need to go back through that post - I was REALLY TIRED when I finished it - and clarify these points. Also, I need to clarify that while some of the bolts were a pain to remove, they pushed back in with nothing more than gentle pressure, and that I used the strap on the front to simply hold the axle in place.

Thanks again for clearly pointing this stuff out; I'll go back through the post in a bit and may just retroactively quote you.

Edit: Post updated in a most ninja-esque fashion.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:55 AM   #5103
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No mention of the Sundowner Punk'd text ?

Nice write up , hopefully your shocks will come in soon and take care of the last bit of harshness . My wrist has recovered from your suspension test , it was touch and go for a bit but the doc says I can keep it now .
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Unread 07-11-2013, 08:15 AM   #5104
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No mention of the Sundowner Punk'd text ?
I wasn't sure how to include "Oh, about this time, Beasley started f****** with me" into the mix, but since you bring it up...

Just as I was getting the front end buttoned up I get a text from Beasley, asking if I've gotten everything done yet. Now, this was asinine enough because he damned well KNEW that I wasn't done, but that's not the funny part. The funny part is that the response I get back from sending "Just got the front back together" is "Nice. Bad news is I sold the arms."

At this point, some of you are already laughing. Others of you will have to wait to laugh, because you're not aware that Beasley literally GAVE me these arms to use until 1) I get some custom stuff built, 2) I decide I want to keep them and give him a few caps for them, or 3) He decides he wants to sell them.

So there I am, standing in the garage with an impact wrench in one hand and my phone in the other, and I'm staring at this "Bad news is I sold the arms" text...and Jen is standing there asking me why we're not yet starting on the rear set and FJ Ryan is on his way over to lend some additional help and to eat cookies when I'm not looking. I replied to Beasley with "Okay, tell me that you're kidding...because I'm not going to tear into the rear if I have to pull everything out and get these back to you" and ten or fifteen minutes later I get the following response.

"Bwahahaha!"

All of the rest of you can start laughing now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
Nice write up , hopefully your shocks will come in soon and take care of the last bit of harshness . My wrist has recovered from your suspension test , it was touch and go for a bit but the doc says I can keep it now .
I'm really glad that you're okay. Really. I am. I wouldn't lie about this.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 08:53 AM   #5105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
When setting the axle's position, note that arm length really doesn't matter. The axles being 1) square to the frame, 2) square to each other and with 3) proper pinion angle and caster 4) while being laterally centered at ride height is what matters.
Just out of curiosity, what do you measure from to square an axle to the frame. I've noticed inconsistencies pertaining to location of body mounts compared to holes in the frame rails, so that also makes me question the consistency of those holes in the frame rails.

I would assume square the rear axle first, then measure up to the front on each side to get them parallel.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 08:59 AM   #5106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
Just out of curiosity, what do you measure from to square an axle to the frame. I've noticed inconsistencies pertaining to location of body mounts compared to holes in the frame rails, so that also makes me question the consistency of those holes in the frame rails.

I would assume square the rear axle first, then measure up to the front on each side to get them parallel.
Most people use the skid plate mounting bolts. They seem to be pretty consistent.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 09:06 AM   #5107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
Just out of curiosity, what do you measure from to square an axle to the frame. I've noticed inconsistencies pertaining to location of body mounts compared to holes in the frame rails, so that also makes me question the consistency of those holes in the frame rails.

I would assume square the rear axle first, then measure up to the front on each side to get them parallel.
The center t-case skid nutsert for both the front and rear axles. Then cross-measure for axle-to-axle squareness. If the frame is straight, your axles should be square to each other once you independently square them up with the frame, at least that's what I've seen. I'm happy with results within 1/16".
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Unread 07-11-2013, 12:02 PM   #5108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post

Most people use the skid plate mounting bolts. They seem to be pretty consistent.
That's what I used; I suppose I should have gotten a picture of it. I can fix that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post

The center t-case skid nutsert for both the front and rear axles. Then cross-measure for axle-to-axle squareness. If the frame is straight, your axles should be square to each other once you independently square them up with the frame, at least that's what I've seen. I'm happy with results within 1/16".
I was somewhere around a thin 1/16", but I still don't completely trust that number because of the stock track bar racking everything sideways. I really need to get that thing replaced.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 07:47 AM   #5109
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Today's Jeeping: Greasing the new control arms and checking torque on all the bolts.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 09:05 AM   #5110
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God that thing is ****ing clean underneath. I really need to adjust my arms and pinion angle
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Unread 07-12-2013, 09:27 AM   #5111
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Thank you for the compliments, and for the first post! I'm certainly glad that you're reading, but unfortunately I can almost guarantee that you'll end up spending more money on your rig if you hang around long enough; that's what seems to happen to us all.
Yep... I have fallen victim. Its unavoidable.

Btw - I haven't had the time to catch up on your build since I have been MIA for the most part... but I am glad you like your new CAs!

I also still have your pump sitting nicely in my garage. I swear I will get it out to you soon!
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Unread 07-12-2013, 10:02 AM   #5112
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God that thing is ****ing clean underneath. I really need to adjust my arms and pinion angle
Clean?? You talkin' crazy, Willis! I was thinking I should have taken a pressure washer and some degreaser to her before I started the install!

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I also still have your pump sitting nicely in my garage. I swear I will get it out to you soon!
Yeah, I was looking at my mailbox a few minutes ago and thinking about you.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 10:04 AM   #5113
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So... is this POS ready for URE yet?
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Unread 07-12-2013, 10:07 AM   #5114
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So... is this POS ready for URE yet?
It's damned close, now. All I really need to do is steal that Currie steering that Jay is selling, and I'll feel much better about life...stiff suspension or not.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 10:10 AM   #5115
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It's damned close, now. All I really need to do is steal that Currie steering that Jay is selling, and I'll feel much better about life...stiff suspension or not.
Stock steering shouldn't stop you from going wheeling! I'll even bring a spare if it makes you feel any better.
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