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Unread 04-11-2012, 06:16 PM   #256
dongalonga
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**** is the **** too but I'm not making doors out of it

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Unread 04-11-2012, 06:32 PM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dongalonga View Post
**** is the **** too but I'm not making doors out of it
Jealous. I'm gettin' carbon fiber doors and your not..

P.S. How do you like your OX locker?
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Unread 04-11-2012, 07:38 PM   #258
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Solid questions here! Let's go one at a time:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
What gave you the idea to use aviation materials?
Well, they're not just aviation materials. Carbon and wood composites show up in diverse places...cycling, kayaks, canoes, larger watercraft, paddles, surfboards, skateboards, and yes: aircraft. Anywhere that a high strength-to-weight ratio is needed a carbon/wood composite can be a viable choice.

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Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
Or are you just that f***ing smart?
That all depends on who you ask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
What kind of resin would you use and what would you use to seal the bushings and such?
Bushings: Which ones are we talking about, here? The through-bolt sleeves I spoke of? I may not even need to include those. We'll see when the design starts to develop.

Resin: I haven't decided yet, honestly...I need to do a bit more research on what resin and fiber wraps will work best. Suggestions are most welcome if you're knowledgeable about such things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
Upon some extensive thought on this subject, I have came to the realization: Why not just buy some f***ing safari doors and wrap them in canvas?
Very, very, very smart question...and the answer is: factory mirrors and factory hinges. I want a factory mirror in the factory mirror location, d*** it. The hard part of these doors isn't the skins, though...it's the framework. Once the framework is constructed it could be skinned with anything. I've thought more than once about canvas to match Greta's deck cover. Depending on where we go with the idea I may do this down the road. Incidentally, I'm thinking that I'll use 3M 5200 to attach the aluminum door skins...I've held transducers onto boat hulls with that stuff and drug them through the water at 75 MPH, so it should work here as well. No visible fasteners! Party! Bonus!

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Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
Don't mean to undermine your ideas, just sayin... You want your Jeep to be practical right?
Undermine? Questioning an idea is not undermining it; rather, it is giving it a chance to evolve. To that end: practicality is the major concern here and the framework is the difficult part. Thus, I'm focusing most of my efforts on that particular piece. I'm making it from wood because - through my father's expertise - I have several thousand dollars of woodworking tools and sixty-plus years of knowledge at my disposal ...taken together, those are a powerful argument.

Coincidentally, your mention of aircraft materials brings up another potential candidate for the frame material: plywood! Some rough figuring showed us that a skeletonized plywood/carbon laminate would be stable, lightweight, incredibly strong and much, much faster to fabricate than a Sitka frame. It would also cost less as I have a local source for marine and aviation plywood. Using plywood would, furthermore, allow me to sandwich carbon layers between wood layers...and this would pretty much end our structural rigidity concerns.

So: the framework is the hard part and it can be skinned with anything. Why aluminum?
1. I have a local source for at-cost aluminum.
2. I work with CAD programs for a living so I can do a template of the door skins that I want and...
3. ...have a machine shop water-jet them to whatever shape I wish.
4. If you look at your factory doors you'll start to see why I want .125 aluminum on the outer layer.

Great series of questions all around, man...you guys are really helping me think through this process. Now the only real decision is if I get enough material to make more than one set of doors in the hopes that someone will buy them and help me offset my cost.
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Unread 04-11-2012, 07:48 PM   #259
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This guy is a ****ing genius
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Unread 04-12-2012, 12:34 AM   #260
dongalonga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak17 View Post
Jealous. I'm gettin' carbon fiber doors and your not..

P.S. How do you like your OX locker?
I haven't hit the trails with it yet. My spartan will be in this weekend and if all goes well should be installed next week.

I have some big news coming in my build thread so keep an eye on it.
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Unread 04-12-2012, 11:08 AM   #261
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How To Kill Your TPS and/or IAC In Ten Minutes Or Less...

Awhile back I mentioned that I had some sudden engine codes come up, and that my TPS and IAC went out within just a few minutes of each other. Sounds a bit weird, right? I thought so too. I couldn't - for the life of me - figure out how both of those units went out at the exact same time, and how they went bad without the usual symptoms. See, a TPS will usually show itself to be slowly dying for some time before you actually get a code...and even when the code itself shows up may not notice any severe issues with throttle response. The same goes for the IAC...you may get some erratic or high/low idle issues, but it's not like the engine just stops running all of the sudden.

However, that's exactly what Greta decided to do: stop running. Thankfully she did it near a parking lot. It was hard to get her back started again but when I did it was only the semblance of a steady idle and I couldn't get her to rev above 2200 RPM. Those were the conditions under which I limped home...and that's not an overstatement of the situation. Ever try to drive with a throttle that doesn't want to respond to your input? Try it sometime. It's fun. Really. I wouldn't lie to you about this.

When I got back I disconnected the negative battery cable and checked the connections...everything was secure, so I let the code clear and started her up. This time she started fine, but in about a minute or so the codes came back. So I pulled the negative cable again and took the connections loose...and this time, I found something rather interesting: water.

Study the picture below carefully, and see if you can figure out how water can get into both the TPS and IAC connections.




Got it all sorted out? No? I'm not surprised, because it doesn't make a lot of sense to me, either, except for one little tidbit of information: I had just washed and degreased Greta's engine bay.

Look again: both of those sensor connections face forwards on a horizontal plane. By my best reckoning the hose had enough pressure to force water through the seals and into the interior of those connectors, which then caused a short of some sort. I had let the engine bay dry pretty thoroughly before I turned the key but there was no way that water inside a connection was going to dry out with any rapidity.

Right about that time, I realized why I'd kept the f****** dielectric grease in the toolbag.

The fix was a new TPS...the IAC righted itself after having the water blown out of the connection and being allowed to air-dry for an hour or so. I took the opportunity to clean the carbon off of the IAC piston and bypass tunnel, and I found another tube of f****** dielectric grease and put it to good use inside the connectors for both sensors.

The Moral of The Story: be careful when you deliberately introduce water into an engine bay, and waterproof your electrical connections whenever you have the chance to do so.
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Unread 04-12-2012, 12:03 PM   #262
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That's darn good information to know! I don't know how many times I've rolled my rig into the wash bay at work and kicked on the ole pressure washer to the engine bay and not addressed those connections. Guess I will consider myself lucky that hasn't happened to me yet.
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Unread 04-12-2012, 12:26 PM   #263
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Quote:
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That's darn good information to know! I don't know how many times I've rolled my rig into the wash bay at work and kicked on the ole pressure washer to the engine bay and not addressed those connections. Guess I will consider myself lucky that hasn't happened to me yet.
I wouldn't have expected it to happen. Hell, I didn't even know that it could happen...but it did. And I'm not saying that it will happen to anyone else, but for the price of a tube of f****** dielectric grease I'd pull those connections apart and stuff some in there.
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Unread 04-12-2012, 12:29 PM   #264
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You just reminded me of what I need to add to my tool kit, ******* dielectric grease!
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Unread 04-12-2012, 04:40 PM   #265
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You just reminded me of what I need to add to my tool kit, ******* dielectric grease!
That's going in my Electrical Kit. But I have to finish the Basics article, first.
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Unread 04-12-2012, 08:07 PM   #266
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a towel (because a towel is about the most massively useful thing a Jeep driver can have) and The Mysterious and Suspiciously-Named "Girly Things" Kit...which is a LOT stranger and INFINITELY more useful than it sounds. It may even be more useful than the towel.

"Hey, I'm a guy that really knows where his towel is....
This is Amazing! a "Hitchhickers" reference in a Jeep build post. You are to be congratulated sir.
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Unread 04-12-2012, 08:12 PM   #267
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This is Amazing! a "Hitchhickers" reference in a Jeep build post. You are to be congratulated sir.
Holy f***...someone's first post is in my build thread? Official "We're Not Worthy!" smiley, inbound:

Welcome to JF. Enjoy the ride, whether you're hitching or not.
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Unread 04-12-2012, 11:42 PM   #268
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Holy f***...someone's first post is in my build thread? Official "We're Not Worthy!" smiley, inbound:

Welcome to JF. Enjoy the ride, whether you're hitching or not.
Priceless
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Unread 04-13-2012, 08:06 AM   #269
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Momentary Update: According to Brown Santa's website, the brakes are actually on the truck for delivery by the end of the day...fingers crossed...
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Unread 04-13-2012, 12:11 PM   #270
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checked JF for updates on the wasteland thread: hilarity ensues.

so what's the status on brown santa??
[hijack] I just put an order in for new rad hoses, flowkooler pump n such because as I was letting my jeep idle while taking the top/doors off to get breakfast after a night of drinking, it decided to heat up to the hash mark right before the yellow warning section and when i revved to cool it, it starting pissing from the lower rad hose [/hijack] glad things are going better with you
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