The Wasteland Survival Guide: Engineering Greta - Page 179 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #2671 of 8099 Old 11-07-2012, 04:46 PM
G Beasley
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How did it hold up ?


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post #2672 of 8099 Old 11-07-2012, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Surviving The Wasteland: The Inevitable Cracked Radiator Tank, Part 3

Pictured: How it held up.




Yep, it split...mostly because I didn't make the epoxy layer thick enough. However, it did hold up for a couple of days and over a hundred miles of driving; this tells me that it's a viable repair strategy even if it's not been executed in the best possible fashion as of yet. After seeing that it had split I took a grooving file and made a vertical cut through the epoxy and down to the surface of the radiator tank in order to check the thickness; it was probably a thin 1/16" or so, and - obviously - this is too thin. Slightly more worrisome than the thickness, though, was the fact that certain areas of the epoxy released from the plastic without an undue amount of persuasion on my part; a combination of chipping and scraping with a double-cut file had most of the stuff off in short order. As expected, though, the areas that held tighter were those that had been covered more thoroughly by my ad-hoc abrasion. So, we're going to try again with a few more pointers in mind:

- A better "roughing up" is required.
- The epoxy needs to be somewhere around 1/8" or so.
- The suggestion to use some sort of mesh matrix should be used, too.

Needless to say, I'm also adding a few items to the Repair Kit list...and if anyone has any further pointers, I'd be more than happy to hear them.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2673 of 8099 Old 11-07-2012, 05:18 PM
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One of the things to keep in mind is that over time, the plasticizers in plastic leach out and through. it may be plenty rough enough, however the chemicals in the plastics wont allow it to bond. Also being as it was covered in antifreeze, the crack itself had coolant residue in it and that would cause it to not seal. See if you can score a small amount of a vinyl ester resin and try it again.
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post #2674 of 8099 Old 11-07-2012, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
Needless to say, I'm also adding a few items to the Repair Kit list...
Will there be a "Oh, Yeah! I Forgot... Toolkit Update" post or will you make us thumb through this Godforsaken monstrocity of a thread to find it?

Or is this a separate kit entirely?

'98 Wrangler Sahara - SOLD

'91 Ranger XLT 2WD - 4.0 V6, A4"hell"D, contemplating twin turbo 5.3

'79 C10 Big Ten 2WD - 350, TH350, contemplating rebuilding to 355ci with supercharger and programmable EFI

'12 Subaru Forester (AKA: Arctic Cat) - 2.5, non-CVT, wife's, still begging her to let me get an exhaust system


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post #2675 of 8099 Old 11-07-2012, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
Will there be a "Oh, Yeah! I Forgot... Toolkit Update" post or will you make us thumb through this Godforsaken monstrocity of a thread to find it?

Or is this a separate kit entirely?
I am going to post a toolkit update when/if the TJ Toolkit changes enough to warrant it, but the Repair Kit is a separate entity that's still in-progress as my non-existant funding allows. It's funny that you mention this monstrosity of a thread no more than 24 hours after I started adding a few more links to the index at the beginning, though.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2676 of 8099 Old 11-07-2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
I am going to post a toolkit update when/if the TJ Toolkit changes enough to warrant it, but the Repair Kit is a separate entity that's still in-progress as my non-existant funding allows. It's funny that you mention this monstrosity of a thread no more than 24 hours after I started adding a few more links to the index at the beginning, though.
You're too kind. And, by the way, I appreciate your graceful way of correcting my grammar by using my mispelled word in your subsequent post spelled correctly.



For those of you that didn't catch that...

'98 Wrangler Sahara - SOLD

'91 Ranger XLT 2WD - 4.0 V6, A4"hell"D, contemplating twin turbo 5.3

'79 C10 Big Ten 2WD - 350, TH350, contemplating rebuilding to 355ci with supercharger and programmable EFI

'12 Subaru Forester (AKA: Arctic Cat) - 2.5, non-CVT, wife's, still begging her to let me get an exhaust system


'01 SV650 - snorkelectomy, ebay slip-on, cam swap and re-jet in the near future
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post #2677 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 06:42 AM
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Not sure if this is feasable but how about some sort of plastic "filler". I have seen where woodworkers have taken saw dust and mixed it with wood glue to make a paste/woodfiller.

What about some sort of ABS plastic filings mixed with an epoxy that kind of gets forced into the crack as well as the fiberglas mesh and the JB Weld?

My idea of help from the man above is a sniper on the roof.
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post #2678 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 07:19 AM
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Another option would be to do a V cut in the crack like you do on stress fractures in fiberglass. You would be assured of getting product into the area.

I DO IT WITH MY TOP OFF!
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post #2679 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 07:29 AM
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Check this link out that I found.

http://www.urethanesupply.com/radiator.php

I DO IT WITH MY TOP OFF!
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post #2680 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 07:39 AM
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^ That is a pretty neat option for the home garage, but I don't know about the waste land.... ^
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post #2681 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 07:44 AM
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If you have an inverter in the rig it could be.

I DO IT WITH MY TOP OFF!
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post #2682 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverdown87 View Post
What about some sort of ABS plastic filings mixed with an epoxy that kind of gets forced into the crack as well as the fiberglas mesh and the JB Weld?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissas6570 View Post
Another option would be to do a V cut in the crack like you do on stress fractures in fiberglass. You would be assured of getting product into the area.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissas6570 View Post
Check this link out that I found.

http://www.urethanesupply.com/radiator.php
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrows View Post
^ That is a pretty neat option for the home garage, but I don't know about the waste land.... ^
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissas6570 View Post
If you have an inverter in the rig it could be.
All excellent ideas. Now, the question becomes: "How do I formulate something like this into a repair that can be carried out in the middle of nowhere?"

Reinforcement of the repair, thickening of the epoxy and perhaps using a different type of epoxy that would have uses elsewhere...this is a solid plan. Someone has also questioned whether or not a solvent weld compound would function, and using the plastic filler rod is certainly a good way to go (I sort of wonder if you could do it with a nylon zip-tie and a torch) but it's largely dependent on taking up some precious cargo space with specialized repair equipment; that might be a nice option for a larger rig or if the same repair can be improvised from other materials. All of these notions are very helpful because the purpose of the exercise is to use whatever's on hand in order to formulate a better Repair Kit and hopefully to discover a solution that will last a few days and several hundred miles; the suggestion help to discover what needs to be on hand. If we were only concerned about a day's rock-crawling then the patch I already used would work, but since we're talking about the potential for multi-day overland travel a more durable solution is desirable. So keep those thoughts in mind and keep the suggestions coming!

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2683 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 09:51 AM
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Sundowner, I would try the Permatex the Right Stuff. I always keep a tube of it in the jeep because its resistant to just about everything, 1 minute cure time, and can withstand temperatures of -75 to 450 F with intermittent temperatures to 500f. One of the benefits to using a gasket sealer is that it will flex with the radiator. I think if you take the same meathod of prep and use it, you would have quicker and better results.
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...r-29208-detail

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-Leaf Springs that you want to get rid of.
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post #2684 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ12 View Post
Sundowner, I would try the Permatex the Right Stuff. I always keep a tube of it in the jeep because its resistant to just about everything, 1 minute cure time, and can withstand temperatures of -75 to 450 F with intermittent temperatures to 500f. One of the benefits to using a gasket sealer is that it will flex with the radiator. I think if you take the same meathod of prep and use it, you would have quicker and better results.
I've put both that and Permatex's epoxies on the list of potential candidates. The only issue I have with a flexible repair is that it may very well allow the original crack to continue expanding.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2685 of 8099 Old 11-08-2012, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
All excellent ideas. Now, the question becomes: "How do I formulate something like this into a repair that can be carried out in the middle of nowhere?"
Well as far as using plastic shavings/filings it is the wasteland after all..No one gives a hoot they all pollute so plastic is all over the place. (Of course you really don't need a huge block of plastic). You could also use some large 200# test fishing line.

The mesh could be any type fiberglas mesh, dry wall mesh, window screen, gauze from the girly kit.

Adhesive is what you already have in your kit be it the JB Weld, Gorilla Glue, or what have you.

Storage of the plastic would be kind of easy too.. You have the whole underside of the inner tub rail where your wiring for the rear lights and all reside. So even if you got a 3' piece of solid plastic you could put it up there using the clips that hold the wiring up and it will be out of the way. Also you have your roll bar padding. there is that open seam in the foam. Slide a piece in there and zip your covers back over it.

My idea of help from the man above is a sniper on the roof.
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