The Wasteland Survival Guide: Engineering Greta - Page 178 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #2656 of 8099 Old 11-03-2012, 12:34 AM
cycleguy04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misterpookie

whatchoo mean?
You roll with the rainbows and unicorns?

Comment fueled by Dos Equis.


'98 Wrangler Sahara - SOLD

'91 Ranger XLT 2WD - 4.0 V6, A4"hell"D, contemplating twin turbo 5.3

'79 C10 Big Ten 2WD - 350, TH350, contemplating rebuilding to 355ci with supercharger and programmable EFI

'12 Subaru Forester (AKA: Arctic Cat) - 2.5, non-CVT, wife's, still begging her to let me get an exhaust system


'01 SV650 - snorkelectomy, ebay slip-on, cam swap and re-jet in the near future
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post #2657 of 8099 Old 11-03-2012, 01:14 AM
misterpookie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
You roll with the rainbows and unicorns?

Comment fueled by Dos Equis.
nah. just don't care for margaritas. if i have to deal with one, i want to pretend it's lemonade.

also, i don't advocate drinking and horse-riding.

jeep-sleep: N, V,
1: (verb) to fall asleep in one's jeep, generally in the reclined position or perhaps even on top of the roof. Ex: :I think i may pull over and jeep-sleep for a bit"
2: (noun) the sleep one gets while in a jeep. Ex: "Dude, that wasn't a nap.. it was a jeep sleep."


CRAWLEY'S STORY <3 (sort of a build thread)
FOR SALE: SOFT TOP WITH FRAME FROM A 99
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post #2658 of 8099 Old 11-03-2012, 07:35 AM
Melissas6570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
And that was a Mopar radiator? At the listed price, that's not bad at all if it's a factory piece.
Yes all parts are OEM. My stock radiator lasted 133000 miles. The water pump was still going but I thought it could go at any point. So I changed it while I had it torn down.

I DO IT WITH MY TOP OFF!
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post #2659 of 8099 Old 11-03-2012, 09:16 PM
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Ok. So. After seeing mud again, I have now recalled that it is not, in fact, clear. Even a little bit. So, I am once again jealous of the inside jokes.

Holy cow, I really missed being off the normal beaten path!
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post #2660 of 8099 Old 11-04-2012, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 357transam View Post
Holy cow, I really missed being off the normal beaten path!
There are no normal, beaten paths in the Wasteland.

Today's Jeeping: Working on a radiator fix...

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2661 of 8099 Old 11-04-2012, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
There are no normal, beaten paths in the Wasteland.

Today's Jeeping: Working on a radiator fix...
I replaced my radiator at about 125k miles, same thing top and sides leaking.I put new one from jeep in was like 145 bucks, new hoses and water pump. no biggie. now thinking about going aluminum and met a guy that had a puller elec fan with shutoff switch. I like that idea better with my 4.6....Great thread btw, love my 03
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post #2662 of 8099 Old 11-05-2012, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Surviving The Wasteland: The Inevitable Cracked Radiator Tank, Part 2

A couple more days and a few more miles and Greta's still running...and not only is she running but she's doing it well within specification. Upon being reminded that most gauges in vehicles these days are dumbed down to the "as long as the needle is in the middle, everything is fine" point - thanks for that, Ryan - I decided to actually take an accurate reading of the coolant temperature at various points in the warm-up/run/idle/cool-down cycle. Normally, this is a pain in the a**, but having a cheap OBDII adapter and the Torque app on my phone made it somewhat easier. I can't take screenshots of the application, but here's the coolant temperature data that I recorded during a morning of driving:

Warm-Up: Ambient temperature to 211F
Run/Cruise: 190F to 211F
Idle: 210F
Cooling: 211F to 226F

These numbers correlated very closely to the gauge readout, except for the period where the temperature spikes after the engine is shut down and the coolant continues to absorb heat from the block. I'd guess that if the temp gauge is factory-retarded, the retardation is unfortunately on the hot side of the 210-mark...which is precisely where it needs to be anything but inaccurate. Regardless, the temps are basically what I expected, which means that a cracked top tank is still essentially functional although certainly not ideal; coolant could still be lost quite easily and that could mean the death of an engine if it gets bad enough. Thus, I'm moving ahead with the plan to attempt a trail-esque patch with nothing more than what I already had in the Jeep that might be useful.

Pictured: The sammich is only for morale, but the ketchup is actually pretty important.




Even though the picture is terrible - as are the rest, being taken at mid-day with a cell phone - you can see what I've dragged from under the oh-so-photogenic hard deck: some brake cleaner, a jug of water, the first aid kit, a roll of Gorilla tape, a couple of napkins and some J-B Weld. Lunch, naturally, was a separate purchase...but if I could install a sammich dispenser under that deck you can bet that I'd damn sure do it. For now, the order of the day is to get the crack sealed with that J-B Weld, so after a quick drive to get the top tank nice and hot to open the crack, the first step is to prep the surface by washing any newly-dried coolant off of the top of the radiator.

Pictured: Not too bad, though, for about a hundred miles of driving.




There's no point in getting everything sparkling clean just yet - we're still going to do some roughing-up of the plastic - so a napkin and some water are fine for now.

Pictured: A clean radiator is a happy radiator.




J-B Weld is a pretty good thing to have just lying around, as it's a great high-strength epoxy with a fantastic temperature rating - 550F, to be exact - which means that it'll survive under-hood environments. It bonds to most anything but the strength and permanence of that bond is completely dependent on adequate surface prep. Since the plastic is so smooth I used the file on my Leatherman to give the entire area a thorough roughing-up; this will provide the epoxy with a much better surface to grab as it cures.

Pictured: Don't be shy with the abrasion...more is better.




When the abrading is done, soak a napkin with some brake cleaner and start swabbing the entire area. There's no reason to be shy...the brake cleaner will scour the plastic and soften it just a touch on the surface, and it'll get rid of any remaining grease, oil, or newly-arrived coolant.

Pictured: It'll also leave bits of napkin everywhere. We'll get those later.




Let's pause for a second to mention a crucial point: we're patching the radiator while hot because the plastic has expanded a little and the crack is therefore open. I suppose that one could do this repair while cold, but I'd rather the epoxy be worked into the break in order to seal it that much better. Thus, the timing is kind of crucial...you want the plastic to be hot and expanded, but you don't want the coolant to still be bubbling out as it gains heat from the engine; thus, you may have to re-soak the napkin and clean up a bit more weeping coolant over the next few minutes. This is a good time to finish your fries, because the next step is to start mixing up the J-B Weld...

Pictured: ...in a ketchup container. I told you it was important. Ignore the friendly spider.




While any sort of surface or container will work, this is what I had in the glove compartment at the time. To clean out the container I sloshed some water in it to remove the ketchup and then used some alcohol-based hand cleaner (from the Girly Things kit) and more water to get rid of the oily ketchup film that was left over. When it's clean, you can dump a LOT more epoxy in there than you think you need. To mix the epoxy I made a makeshift paddle from the folded-up cardboard of the container.

Pictured: This was barely enough, as it turned out. I repeat: mix more than you think you need.




Once the epoxy was reasonably mixed I gave it a minute or so to "set" while I placed a few strips of Gorilla tape around the cracked area; this ensured that I adequately covered the damage for a good distance in all directions and allowed the mixture to thicken just a touch before it was applied. The thickening really wasn't needed but some sort of physical demarcation was very, very helpful; the last thing you want to do is go through all this trouble and have one portion of the crack marginally covered.

Pictured: The tape also helps to contain the stuff, which WILL get everywhere regardless of how careful you are.




Once the mask was in place and the epoxy was mixed and there was no more coolant seeping out, I used an alcohol prep pad from the first aid kit to give the surface a final cleaning...

Pictured: We don't want to risk it getting an infection.




...and then I basically spooned the epoxy out and spread it across the masked area. Since there were taped edges, I was able to drag some of it back up from the sides and into the middle, where it would do the most good.

Pictured: It's like gray Nutella, only much more useful.




After the mixture was applied I pulled the tape back off and used the still-damp alcohol pad to clean up the few small dribbles that got away from me. Here's the finished patch.

Pictured: Even if it doesn't work, it looks pretty awesome.




Now that the patch is in place, we're going to give this a full twenty-four hour cure and see whether or not it holds up to additional driving. I want to emphasize, here, that this is NOT a real "repair" for a damaged radiator tank...it's just a potential way to minimize coolant losses while on the trail. The real goal of this project isn't to fix Greta's radiator - that'll happen by installing a new unit - but rather to elucidate a thought process and to demonstrate the scrounging-up of materials. The Wasteland may in fact be a wasteland, but that doesn't mean that it's devoid of resources; in this case, everything I needed to take a shot at this was already on-board...and that's an ideal scenario. Self-reliance, after all, is pretty much the only thing you can count on to get you through life.


If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2663 of 8099 Old 11-05-2012, 02:48 PM
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Brilliant! One small question though, the epoxy was under the cap correct? Hard to tell from the pictures.

Oops, just remembered you can add coolant in the expansion tank.
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post #2664 of 8099 Old 11-05-2012, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 357transam View Post
Brilliant! One small question though, the epoxy was under the cap correct? Hard to tell from the pictures.
The epoxy extends from the center swell of the tank to the base of the filler neck, and across the entire width of the top. That's at least .5" from the crack in every direction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 357transam View Post
Oops, just remembered you can add coolant in the expansion tank.
Correct.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2665 of 8099 Old 11-05-2012, 04:28 PM
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Hey, I've seen people rebuild rusted out rims with JB Weld and it's held for months. This will probably hold as long as you need it to.

disclaimer: I do not recommend said method of fixing rims.
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post #2666 of 8099 Old 11-05-2012, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, I've seen people rebuild rusted out rims with JB Weld and it's held for months. This will probably hold as long as you need it to.
We're gonna find out, one way or another. I have no problems at all in sacrificing part of my rig in order to learn more about what will and will not work.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2667 of 8099 Old 11-06-2012, 12:45 AM
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A vagrant thought bubbled up...

Add a 6" (or so) square of glass fibercloth to the repair kit...wrapped around the JB package?

Still in awe of this thread (no shucks).
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post #2668 of 8099 Old 11-06-2012, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
Sundowner
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Originally Posted by lildutchboy View Post
Add a 6" (or so) square of glass fibercloth to the repair kit...wrapped around the JB package?
I thought that something along those lines would come in useful, but I didn't have any with me in the Jeep. Drywall tape or window screening would have worked as well...basically, anything that could serve as a structural reinforcement; I had all kinds of that stuff ten feet away in the house, but using any of it would have defeated the purpose of the activity. I did have the mesh portion of a wire splint with me but it was too high-profile to use and would have taken a LOT more epoxy to fill and cover. A few pieces of screening or fiber mesh would be a great lightweight addition to a kit; good thinking on your part.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

The Republic of Dave: Bringing you the finest in simian testing supplies.

The build, the gear, and the mileage: The Wasteland Survival Guide
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post #2669 of 8099 Old 11-06-2012, 09:08 AM
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Great idea!

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post #2670 of 8099 Old 11-06-2012, 09:37 PM
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I actually did the same thing with my old CJ's radiator. Apparently a radiator for a 1981 2.5L is hard to come by so I had to improvise. I did exactly what you did and it held up until I sold it years later. Great write up.

BDS - Spartan - AtoZ Fabrication - Borgeson HD - USA Standard - BFGoodrich
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