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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:52 AM   #121
Jason
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If I could find a used Miller 250, I'd already have purchased it. I just can't find them.

I doubt I would hit the duty cycle on the 190 often. I've build a few bumpers, and that's the only time I've run into issues with the duty cycle. I like the flexibility of the 210 because it can be run on 120 or 240.

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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-11-2012, 10:40 AM   #122
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If I could find a used Miller 250, I'd already have purchased it. I just can't find them.

I doubt I would hit the duty cycle on the 190 often. I've build a few bumpers, and that's the only time I've run into issues with the duty cycle. I like the flexibility of the 210 because it can be run on 120 or 240.
Is the 210 a big boy with running gear or a smaller box with a handle?

I thought it had running gear, which IMO kind of takes some of the shine off from the 110 capability...i mean it weighs a lot, its not like you could easily throw it in your truck and use it somewhere else.

Used miller 250/251s are not common, but more common than a clean frame TJ that runs! And you did find one of those! lol
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Unread 12-11-2012, 11:02 AM   #123
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Quote:
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Is the 210 a big boy with running gear or a smaller box with a handle?

I thought it had running gear, which IMO kind of takes some of the shine off from the 110 capability...i mean it weighs a lot, its not like you could easily throw it in your truck and use it somewhere else.

Used miller 250/251s are not common, but more common than a clean frame TJ that runs! And you did find one of those! lol
The 210 is the largest "portable" welder Hobart (Miller) makes. The Ironman 230 is the one with it's own wheels. (But also has a 60% duty cycle, vs. the 210s 20%, IIRC.)
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-13-2012, 06:43 PM   #124
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I went ahead and bought the aforementioned Hobart 210. Scheduled delivery is Monday.

I haven't done a whole lot until today. Mostly agonizing of the drivetrain placement. I beat down those two seams on the tub to clear the exhaust. The passenger side is beautiful; the driver side is a little tight to the cooler lines still. I popped the driveshaft on and the angle looks terrible. I may have to do the SYE sooner than I had hoped.

Either the engine mounts don't sit level on the frame, or they don't sit level on the block, or both. I don't like how the block and frame mounts are not parallel. When comparing driver to passenger side the frame mounts appear to be equally angled, but the block mounts do not. Not sure why because there are existing holes used on the block for the mount.

I'm also trying to think ahead a little bit. I'm considering building a crossmember to support the transmission separate from the skid plate. This will give me a little more freedom in designing the transmission mount and skid plates.

I'd also like to have a skid plate as flat to the frame rails as possible. I've got the transmission pushed up as tight as I can to the body and the t-case still hangs down maybe an inch when I have it pushed up into the tub. I might be able to get a few good hammer swings at it to clearance the tub, but I'm not sure that would be enough. I've never been fan of body lifts, but I think 1 or 1.25 will help a few things for me. I'll have to mull it over.

So anyways, these are the things I need to figure out before I commit to burning in the engine mounts.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:38 PM   #125
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Those weird bolts on the T-Cases are to show where the prying locations are so you don't wreck the mating surfaces. This build looks like a ton of fun.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:43 PM   #126
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The 12 point bolt, or the two with washers? The two with washers went in the holes that had sleeves in them, near the prying locations, and the 12 point one was middle center.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:54 PM   #127
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Oh well I guess I don't know I remember reading somewhere they were to show where to pry but I guess not then. It must mean something though.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:59 PM   #128
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I *think* the ones with washers are for the holes with the alignment sleeves in them. Perhaps it spreads the clamping force? The 12 point one, who knows, the Dodge case didn't have one and the Jeep case did. 12 point bolts are dumb. Lol.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 09:16 PM   #129
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Well this video at 4:00 min talks about how the 2 with washers is where to pry but it doesn't say anything about the 12 point bolt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=jTOpd_pTb3g#!
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Unread 12-14-2012, 04:03 PM   #130
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I pulled the engine back out to see about these engine mounts. By my eye, they appear fine, so I'm going to do some measuring, loosen them up on the block and see if there's any wiggle there.

I beat that seam down a little more for a little more clearance.

I'm looking at the transmission shifter while it's out as well. I got a TJ auto shifter, which is a cable. The Ram 46RE was a column shift with a crazy linkage bolted to the wheel well. So there's going to be some creativity required to make it work.

I also bought these. I have a few other trinkets that are being shipped that I couldn't resist.


My camera sucks with a bright light in a low ambient light room, but these ****ers are BRIGHT.


This one was with the light about chest level facing away.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 11:36 AM   #131
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The transmission shifter is proving to be more difficult that I had hoped. I posted a thread in the ZJ section with some questions HERE, but I'm going to cross post the problem here since this is where I'm documenting the build.

Here's what I'm dealing with:

There's not enough room to get the shifter cable supported to shift the lever on the transmission.

This is the transmission shift lever, and all the other garbage around it. Two things not mentioned earlier: The starter is on the driver side, which is the side pictured. The Jeep 46RE is on the passenger side. Also, I didn't put the exhaust down pipe on until this morning, which creates more issues.

The RED CIRCLE is the mount for the linkage that the column shift uses. The YELLOW CIRCLE is the transmission shift lever. It's currently in park, which is all the way rearward. Moving forward engages the gear ranges in order. The GREEN CIRCLE is roughly where the cable bracket should go.



Here's the TJ cable and transmission side bracket. I'd gladly buy a ZJ cable and bracket if it would work, but the more I look at it, the more I think I'm going to have to make something.

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Unread 12-15-2012, 12:57 PM   #132
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All about the stop lamp switch

Sometimes fresh eyes help see solutions to problems, I decided to step away from the transmission for a little while since it kind of has me stumped. I decided to take out the old brake and clutch combo and replace it with the brake pedal I grabbed from an automatic transmission equipped TJ that was parted out.

When I put the two switches side by side, I noticed that the manual only has 4 pins and the auto has 6. The FSM refers to this as C302 in the wiring diagrams. The pin closest to the plunger (the leftmost in the picture) is #6, the furthest from the plunger is #1.


  • Pins 1 and 2 are normally open. Depressing the plunger closes the circuit. This is used for the brake pedal sense circuit.
  • Pins 5 and 6 are normally closed. Depressing the plunger opens the circuit. This is used for the stop lamp circuit.
  • Pins 3 and 4 are normally open. Depressing the plunger closes the circuit. This is not used.
There appears to be no other difference in the circuits between auto and manual, so I decided to use the switch that came with the auto in case I need to use the extra pair of pins for some reason.

Here's another tidbit. I spent a while fiddling with the switch trying to remove it. Here it is mounted, note it is square to the bracket.



I messed with the retaining clips for a while but couldn't figure out how to remove it. Eventually, I looked in the FSM to see how you remove the thing, and it's pretty simple. Look at the switch from the back (white-ish part), and rotate it counter clockwise and it comes right out. This releases the switch. Here's a pic from above with the switch rotated and ready to be removed. (Note the black retainer is no longer inline with the white switch body.)



It took me a minute or 10 to figure this out, so hopefully someone finds it useful.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 09:18 PM   #133
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Have you considered the transmission linkage used in the durango? they were floor shifted and when was scrapping the 99 for my donor motor it seems that the linkage was definitely different from the setup you have pictured.
in the process of a similar swap, although mine is an NV 3500 and going to do a flipped dana 300. I had to do a full frame and body replacement that is taking place at the same time so needless to say I have got plenty on my plate and do not feel like I am making any progress.
Look forward to following your swap and starting a page of my own.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 09:51 PM   #134
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No, I had not. I'll look into it, thanks. I'm not sure what transmissions were available in the Durangos, but from what I can tell, the 44RE and 46RE is about the same.

I would honestly prefer a NV3500/4500, but the 46RE is what I had so I used it. There are some PCM complications when going to manual from auto as well.
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Unread 12-16-2012, 09:03 AM   #135
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Here's a pic of a Durango 46RE I found on some dude's for sale posting. (Note the cable shown is the TV cable, not the shift cable.) The shift cable bracket looks like it moves the cable to the right place for my application. I'm going to see if I can get my hands on one of these.



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