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Unread 12-07-2012, 06:32 PM   #106
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
Would appreciate it greatly. I've half talked myself into buying them anyways because they have to flow better than stock. And that can't hurt, right??


forumrunner_20121207_172803.jpg



forumrunner_20121207_172829.jpg

Here's both the passenger and driver side. There's tons of room. The bracket that attaches to the frame is different than the yj aa bracket, but the distancing should be the same because the mounts attach to the front part of the block. Let me, know if you need more pictures, as I took these while setting up my fuel lines.

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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-2-5l-jeep-wrangler-build-5-2l-swap-1210512
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Unread 12-07-2012, 07:36 PM   #107
Jason
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Thanks for the pic. I'm drinking beer in your honor right now. That answers my questions. The factory engine mounts are right in the middle, right where that center outlet dumps. The AA kit as a bracket that bolts to the engine block in front of the factory location, leaving room for the headers.

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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-07-2012, 07:40 PM   #108
Jason
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In related news, I tossed the engine in between frame rails for a test fit. I really like where I put it.



Few issues with clearance here or there, but it looks doable.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 01:56 PM   #109
Jason
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I got the old motor mounts off the block and the new on. I welded the part of the frame engine mount that AA forgot. I got them clamped to the frame roughly where they will go, and the engine back in near where it should be.

Here's the exhaust interference. Tell me why I can't just beat this seam down??

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Unread 12-08-2012, 04:36 PM   #110
--chris--
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You can't beat that seam down because your ocd.

Get your girl or a neighbor to do it for you .

Looks good man, that's a big step. Is that with the engine in a position to retain the shafts?
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Unread 12-08-2012, 06:50 PM   #111
Jason
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I got the auto bezel today -- thanks.

All progress has basically been halted since. There was a little interference with one of the tranny cooler lines. I cut it, bent a new piece to re route it, and ended up kinking all the 3/8" line I had sitting around, and I cooked my flaring tool. (This is the 3rd one I've blown up.) So, after screwing around with that for a while, I had to go get a new tool and more line.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 08:04 PM   #112
Jason
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Make that the FOURTH flaring tool I've blown up.



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Unread 12-09-2012, 04:59 PM   #113
Jason
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Alright. Today was parts gathering and tool purchase day. I bought a new, made in the USA flaring tool from Sears. Recently, I have been disappointed with most of my Craftsman tool purchases, and it's no longer convenient to run to a store to replace them (30 mile drive). It seems that in the last 10 years or so, the tool quality has declined. I still have several large sets of sockets and wrenches, when they were still made in the USA, which are second to none, but I've not been impressed with my recent purchases. However, I read a few good reviews on the Sears flaring tool, both here on JF and elsewhere, so I figured I'd give it a go. I've got my eye on a Mastercool hydraulic flare tool, but the cost is significant; about $300. But, since I'm on my 5th flaring tool, it may be a good purchase.

I also bought a cheap HPLV sprayer to attempt some paint for Betty. Some other odds and ends for the garage; gloves, air line quick connects, socket adapter that I somehow lost the other day, etc.

I picked up an auto shifter, bracket and cables. I got an auto brake pedal, dash vents and some foot well lights too. I should be able to integrate the auto shifter from the TJ to the Ram transmission. No other work today. Back at it tomorrow.
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Unread 12-10-2012, 09:45 AM   #114
--chris--
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Wonder if there is a way to use a press with a flarring tool, eliminate the weak points all together and make it easier to do...?

Buying tools is half the fun of building something.
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Unread 12-10-2012, 09:58 AM   #115
Jason
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Wonder if there is a way to use a press with a flarring tool, eliminate the weak points all together and make it easier to do...?
I never thought of that. A small arbor press would probably be the way to go, but maybe if I'm gentle with the 20 ton it could work. I still have all the old bars and adapters from my old flaring tools; it's just the yokes that broke.

This is the one I want. (71475, top of the page)
http://www.mastercool.com/pages/flaring_tools.html

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Originally Posted by --chris-- View Post
MAKING tools is half the fun of building something.
Since I had nothing to loose, I attempted to weld a nut to the top of the broken one. It worked until I tried to loosen the yoke. There wasn't enough material on the yoke and it sheared.

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Unread 12-10-2012, 09:15 PM   #116
Jason
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I worked until 8:30 tonight so I didn't have much time for Jeep work. Tonight's update brought to you by Arbor Brewing Co. Phat Abbot Ale.



As openly critical as I am about Craftsman tools, it wouldn't be fair unless I shared when the experience is positive as well. The new, made in the good ol' U.S. of A flaring tool is worlds better than my Chinese cheapies. The bar holds the line better, the yoke handle is longer, and the yoke legs are thicker. Flares were mostly trouble-free.



The other night, I bought a few 20 and 30 inch lengths of 3/8s along with the last failed flaring tool. I managed to kink all of the line I bought this weekend too.



You can see my tubing bender in the the pic above, with the red handle. It's a fixed, single die bender (for lack of a better description). It's worked fine on all the 3/16 and 1/4 I've ever needed to bend, and the few times I've needed to do 3/8. I just couldn't get it to bend well without kinking. So I got a new tool.



Now THIS thing works well. If you don't have one, go get one. Now. It works that well. I can't believe I wasted all these years bending lines with crap tools. It cost a whopping $7 at Harbor Freight. From what I can tell, other quality brand tools cost 2 or 3 times more. If I break or wear this one out, I'll buy another of this style, but a quality brand.

End result below. It took about 10 minutes with the better tools. I can't believe I screwed around with this as long as I did.

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Quote:
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We're men! We don't need no stinkin directions!
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:04 AM   #117
--chris--
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
I worked until 8:30 tonight so I didn't have much time for Jeep work. Tonight's update brought to you by Arbor Brewing Co. Phat Abbot Ale.



As openly critical as I am about Craftsman tools, it wouldn't be fair unless I shared when the experience is positive as well. The new, made in the good ol' U.S. of A flaring tool is worlds better than my Chinese cheapies. The bar holds the line better, the yoke handle is longer, and the yoke legs are thicker. Flares were mostly trouble-free.



The other night, I bought a few 20 and 30 inch lengths of 3/8s along with the last failed flaring tool. I managed to kink all of the line I bought this weekend too.

[IMG]http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv209/jason44406/100_3151.jpg[/I MG]

You can see my tubing bender in the the pic above, with the red handle. It's a fixed, single die bender (for lack of a better description). It's worked fine on all the 3/16 and 1/4 I've ever needed to bend, and the few times I've needed to do 3/8. I just couldn't get it to bend well without kinking. So I got a new tool.

[IMG]http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv209/jason44406/100_3152.jpg[/IM G]

Now THIS thing works well. If you don't have one, go get one. Now. It works that well. I can't believe I wasted all these years bending lines with crap tools. It cost a whopping $7 at Harbor Freight. From what I can tell, other quality brand tools cost 2 or 3 times more. If I break or wear this one out, I'll buy another of this style, but a quality brand.

End result below. It took about 10 minutes with the better tools. I can't believe I screwed around with this as long as I did.

[IMG]http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv209/jason44406/100_3155.jpg[/I MG]

That happens to me about twice a year. I spend all day fighting something, then buy a new tool the next day and get it done in 20 minutes. Mixed emotions every time...i still want to kill something, but at the same time im feeling better.

Got any plans for a big push during christmas week?
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:29 AM   #118
Jason
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Got any plans for a big push during christmas week?
As a matter of fact, my slavemaster has granted furlough from my daily toilings next week, so I should be able to get some work done, barring any emergencies.

Now that the tranny cooler line has been relocated, I can get back to fitting the engine and transmission in. I need to beat down that body seam to clear the exhaust a little better. A one inch body lift would probably had helped here. There, I said it.

I'm trying to plan the engine mounts around the t-case skid. I was able to bolt the skid to the frame, and the t-case was just sitting there and it looked ok. I'm going to weld the mounts in at the angle I want the drivetrain to ultimately be. That way it won't be stressed when it's all done. There's still some fussing around to do for clearance; however, front to back positioning of the drivetrain looks real good with the AA supplied locating dowels.

Speaking of welding, I'm strongly considering an upgrade to my MIG. Either the Hobart 190 or 210. I'd like the Ironman 230 because of the duty cycle, but can't drop the coin on it.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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We're men! We don't need no stinkin directions!
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:41 AM   #119
Rubicon0311
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As a matter of fact, my slavemaster has granted furlough from my daily toilings next week, so I should be able to get some work done, barring any emergencies.
A perfect chance for some Jeep/owner bonding time
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Unread 12-11-2012, 10:43 AM   #120
--chris--
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Originally Posted by Jason View Post
Speaking of welding, I'm strongly considering an upgrade to my MIG. Either the Hobart 190 or 210. I'd like the Ironman 230 because of the duty cycle, but can't drop the coin on it.
Could get a used Miller or lincoln 250 for around that price...just an idea. A little more amps, but a lot more duty cycle.

How likely do you think it would be that you would bump into the duty cycle on the 190 though? That would be some pretty serious "at home" welding i reckon.
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