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Unread 12-06-2012, 08:42 AM   #91
--chris--
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Great right up. I think its the first dodge/jeep mash up ive seen written down.

As if that wasn't enough fun, whats next? Still working on the harness in chunks?

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Unread 12-06-2012, 09:12 AM   #92
Jason
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Now that the transfer case will mate up to the transmission, I want to start mocking up where the engine / trans / transfer case will go and solve any problems that may arise. I want to decide if it makes sense to use the factory t-case mounting location and preserve the existing DS lengths, or move it all forward and inch or two. I haven't taken the emissions crap out of the Ram yet, and I need to.

And, I want to paint the frame section in the engine bay. Don't want to do that until the welding is done. And I need to do those brake lines, but they go right over where I want to weld and paint!

Factory t-case location:
- Use factory DS lengths, so I can get this heep driving with no axle / driveshaft modification, but long term the DS length is shorter.
- Requires Electric fan conversion. More wiring, albeit minor. Probably less expensive than two new driveshafts.
- Potentially need new headers.

Forward t-case location:
- New DS required before I can run this. Doesn't make sense to financially to buy new DS for the 30/35; I have to go right into axle swap and fab. Doesn't make sense to keep the 2 joint rear, which means I'm getting into the SYE install and 2LO kit I had planned. I knew I'd have to open the T-case again after the input gear install, but I want to do 2LO at the same time as the SYE.
- But long term, this can give me an inch or two longer DS, which will be nice.
- Mechanical fan retained, need 4.0 fan shroud.
- Possible shifter location issues?
- Skid plate modification / fabrication. Again something on the long term list that I didn't want to get into until this thing is running.
- Factory exhaust manifolds will likely work.

Anyways, that's my thought process. I'm leaning toward keeping the stock t-case location, but once this engine is positioned, it's not going anywhere. I know you want to see the wiring, but I keep putting it off. I've been studying, but that's about it. The harnesses are still in a pile in the garage. Maybe if I leave them long enough, they'll just mate themselves.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Last edited by Jason; 12-06-2012 at 10:30 AM.. Reason: Added headers
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Unread 12-06-2012, 09:51 AM   #93
--chris--
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
I've been studying, but that's about it. The harnesses are still in a pile in the garage. Maybe if I leave them long enough, they'll just mate themselves.
LMAO

Worth a shot anyways.

If you changed the t-case position, and had to go SYE right off the bat could you get different flange adapters for different axles...IE not have to buy DS's twice?


I gotta ask because i dont know. Why would one want 2LO? Ive been trying to figure that out, but me being a mall crawler...i just cant figure it out.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 10:02 AM   #94
greenmachine99
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Don't forget block hugger headers if you're keeping your trans in the stock location.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 10:14 AM   #95
Jason
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It's not the flange adapters that's an issue, but rather the driveshaft length that is a concern to me. I don't want to have to buy them twice.

2LO would be useful with a locked front and/or when you want to turn but remain in low range. Obviously with selectable lockers, the advantage is debatable. There have been a few times where I've felt that 2 high was too fast, but 4WD wasn't necessary. I've never had one, and they aren't that expensive, so I figure why not install one the next time the case is open.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 10:29 AM   #96
Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmachine99 View Post
Don't forget block hugger headers if you're keeping your trans in the stock location.
Truck manifolds dump down, but at the rear of the manifold. I believe there is an issue with other engines where the manifold exits behind.

However, that is my understanding of it, which may be incorrect, and headers should be on the list above of potential issues. I have picked out these headers if I do have any issues with clearance.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 11:17 AM   #97
--chris--
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
It's not the flange adapters that's an issue, but rather the driveshaft length that is a concern to me. I don't want to have to buy them twice.

2LO would be useful with a locked front and/or when you want to turn but remain in low range. Obviously with selectable lockers, the advantage is debatable. There have been a few times where I've felt that 2 high was too fast, but 4WD wasn't necessary. I've never had one, and they aren't that expensive, so I figure why not install one the next time the case is open.
Makes sense, had to ask.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 03:09 PM   #98
Rynfw100
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I'm doing basically the same swap, I'm just a bit further than you... but mine has slowed down since the funds have been drained. But I would recommend placing the engine where you want, and worry about drivelines later. I have my engine with the transmission in the stock placement, which gives me (hopefully) just enough room with the stock clutch fan with the radiator, which I also got from Oconee. I used block hugging headers from Summit that fit the 318/360, and they have a nice center dump. I'll grab the P/Ns when I get home because I'm in class right now. Good luck and I'll be following this.
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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Unread 12-06-2012, 03:18 PM   #99
Jason
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Thanks, I'll go read your build. I was worried that center dump might interfere with the engine mounts? I haven't done anything except look at it across the room, so I may be wrong. I don't have a fan shroud, so I was thinking I needed to get one from a 4.0.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 06:15 PM   #100
Rynfw100
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I've got the AA mounts for the YJ, and they clear the Summit Headers fine. Here's the part number I got : SUM-G9064. They should work for you better than for me, since you are going without EGR. Darn OBD1

In regards to the Fan, my original plan was to use an electric fan and do away with the Clutch Fan, but because funds ran low, I just want to see if I can get the beast to fire up. So I'll use that for now, I haven't put my radiator on yet, but I'm hoping that my stock 2.5L fan shroud will work, albeit a little tweaking.
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-2-5l-jeep-wrangler-build-5-2l-swap-1210512
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Unread 12-06-2012, 06:37 PM   #101
Jason
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That's the same part number I linked above. Thanks for clarifying that they work well.

Do you happen to have any pics of the clearance between the mounts and headers?
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Unread 12-06-2012, 08:45 PM   #102
Rynfw100
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Not any good ones, but I'll get some in the next day or so when I work on the fuel lines.
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-2-5l-jeep-wrangler-build-5-2l-swap-1210512
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Unread 12-06-2012, 08:52 PM   #103
Jason
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Would appreciate it greatly. I've half talked myself into buying them anyways because they have to flow better than stock. And that can't hurt, right??
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Unread 12-07-2012, 09:01 AM   #104
--chris--
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Justifying excesses this early in the build Jason? Thats how they all start....


Kidding, kind of. I want some wiring work, they aint gonna mate them selves.
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Unread 12-07-2012, 10:17 AM   #105
Jason
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Yeah yeah. I want to mock up the engine placement first.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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