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Unread 12-02-2012, 04:14 PM   #76
chriswj
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hey good luck with the build

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Unread 12-02-2012, 06:27 PM   #77
Jason
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hey good luck with the build
Thanks Chris! I know I'm going to need a little luck to get this done.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-02-2012, 10:17 PM   #78
Jason
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Much accomplished today. As reported earlier, the 4 cylinder is removed from Betty.

Advice: drain the transmission fluid before pulling engines. I thought I could get away with pulling the engines without draining them. When you pull the t-case, and tilt the engine to remove it, all of the fluid will drain out the output shaft seal. All. Over. The. Floor. The worse part is I didn't learn my lesson the first time when I pulled the Ram engine and it drained all over the floor; I did the same with the 4 cylinder. So, yeah, don't try it.

I rolled the Jeep out of the garage after I pulled the motor and hosed it off. Inside and out.

I also shuffled the engines around in the garage to get ready to send the V8 home.

Next on the list is outfitting the t-case with the new input gear. I found a couple 231s with the right input gear for less than $100 that I might buy just to save the hassle. I'm also going to clean up anything in the engine bay that needs it and paint it.

I'm starting to plan my other projects with this Jeep too. Should be fun.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-03-2012, 08:08 PM   #79
Jason
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I got looking at the brake line that runs from the master cylinder to the passenger side front wheel, and it was looking pretty rough. It wasn't bad, but it was kinda flaky rusty looking. I'm not going to turn this into a repair mission, because it would just turn into a frame off rebuild, and that's not the goal. However, since the entire front is removed, there won't be a better time to replace it. I noticed the rear brake line was in about the same condition. I went to the parts store and got a roll of brake line and some fittings. I'm going to replace them all. It shouldn't be much of a derailment.

My Advance Adapter engine mounts came in today. Good looking units, but they forgot to weld the inside of one. I'll just run a quick bead across it when I have time.

The weather is ridiculous for December in Michigan; sixty degrees today. So I opened the garage door and I decided to cut the 4 cylinder mounts out. It's a good thing I got new brake line because I nicked the passenger side and it's now leaking.

I cleaned up the welds and what rust I could. There are a few spots I cut a little deep and into the frame, so I'll just run a little weld over it to clean it up. Won't hurt the structure as it is right now, but I want to even it out.

I held up the AA mounts and they look good. Back in the box and on the shelf for now. Won't need them for a while.


^^^ Old mounts removed ^^^
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-04-2012, 09:15 AM   #80
--chris--
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post

I'm starting to plan my other projects with this Jeep too. Should be fun.
Go on....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
I got looking at the brake line that runs from the master cylinder to the passenger side front wheel, and it was looking pretty rough. It wasn't bad, but it was kinda flaky rusty looking. I'm not going to turn this into a repair mission, because it would just turn into a frame off rebuild, and that's not the goal. However, since the entire front is removed, there won't be a better time to replace it. I noticed the rear brake line was in about the same condition. I went to the parts store and got a roll of brake line and some fittings. I'm going to replace them all. It shouldn't be much a derailment.

My Advance Adapter engine mounts came in today. Good looking units, but they forgot to weld the inside of one. I'll just run a quick bead across it when I have time.

The weather is ridiculous for December in Michigan; sixty degrees today. So I opened the garage door and I decided to cut the 4 cylinder mounts out. It's a good thing I got new brake line because I nicked the passenger side and it's now leaking.

I cleaned up the welds and what rust I could. There are a few spots I cut a little deep and into the frame, so I'll just run a little weld over it to clean it up. Won't hurt the structure as it is right now, but I want to even it out.

I held up the AA mounts and they look good. Back in the box and on the shelf for now. Won't need them for a while.

[IMG]http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv209/jason44406/1203021917.jpg[/I MG]
^^^ Old mounts removed ^^^

I have yet to see a good picture of the AA mounts, so please do when you get time. Is it the cradle or just mounts?

Get those lines run yet?
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Unread 12-04-2012, 09:25 AM   #81
Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by --chris-- View Post
Go on....
Automatic conversion if I ever get a bezel. Everything else is top secret right now.

Which reminds me, I called my closest junk yard yesterday looking for an auto shifter and brake pedal, but they never called me back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by --chris-- View Post
I have yet to see a good picture of the AA mounts, so please do when you get time. Is it the cradle or just mounts?

Get those lines run yet?
This is a pretty good pic from AA's website, I can take more if you need "real" pics:



The frame is angled a hair, which is why there's a bend on the lower frame "cradle" (if you can call it that, lowest bracket on the picture). The part that mounts to the engine (higher on the picture) sits on top of the frame mount. I'll post pics when I get closer to mount so you can see how it looks on the frame. The location is very different than the 4 cylinder mounts.

I didn't do the brake lines yet because I'm cleaning up the frame in the area that the lines run. After all the rust is scrubbed off, I'm going to paint it, then run the lines.

One step forward, two back.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 09:37 AM   #82
Rubicon0311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
Automatic conversion if I ever get a bezel. Everything else is top secret right now.
Not cool.... Hints???
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Unread 12-04-2012, 10:03 AM   #83
--chris--
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubicon0311 View Post
Not cool.... Hints???
Hes waiting for my pirated bezel from that Heep i just bought Im certain a missing bezel wont hurt my chances of selling it for a profit.

How far from Flint are you? I know you need little parts, but if you come to find that you need a whole pile of little parts Flint is the go to place. So many yards, all of them trying to cheat the other out of a sale...

As for the mounts, i guess i should have said "assembled" pics. I have a hard time seeing how those mount in the frame (but i do see that dowel/screw you mentioned). When you get them tacked in, take a pic for me.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 10:38 AM   #84
Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by --chris-- View Post
Hes waiting for my pirated bezel from that Heep i just bought Im certain a missing bezel wont hurt my chances of selling it for a profit.

How far from Flint are you? I know you need little parts, but if you come to find that you need a whole pile of little parts Flint is the go to place. So many yards, all of them trying to cheat the other out of a sale...

As for the mounts, i guess i should have said "assembled" pics. I have a hard time seeing how those mount in the frame (but i do see that dowel/screw you mentioned). When you get them tacked in, take a pic for me.
Your replacement is in the mail.

I think Flint is a 1.5 hour drive probably. I need a whole pile of stuff, but it's mostly small stuff. Dash vents, visors and attachments, hood prop rod, headlight bezels, grille snubbers, body plugs, etc. The auto shifter is really the only semi-urgent thing, and I can even live without that for a minute. When I get to making a list, you'll need to give me a directory of those Flint yards. I know you and I think Justin have both mentioned them before. If I can get everything in one shot, it's worth the trip.

I can assemble the mount to give you an idea of what it looks like. I actually had to think about it for a second when I got all the pieces, so assembled pics will be good. I have to get the welder out of the corner and fix up the dings in the frame tonight anyways.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-04-2012, 12:35 PM   #85
--chris--
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For the flint yards, just open up google maps and search for Junkyards on Dort Highway. That will be 90% of them ,they are all lined up for a few miles straight. Tiger & RPM are the biggest i believe, but thats not to say the others are small. I swear to god, Flint is the graveyard for just about every vehicle in Michigan lol. You can search their inventory from their sites ahead of time, then call to confirm they have it then head out.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 06:18 PM   #86
Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by --chris-- View Post
For the flint yards, just open up google maps and search for Junkyards on Dort Highway. That will be 90% of them ,they are all lined up for a few miles straight. Tiger & RPM are the biggest i believe, but thats not to say the others are small. I swear to god, Flint is the graveyard for just about every vehicle in Michigan lol. You can search their inventory from their sites ahead of time, then call to confirm they have it then head out.
Well, I may have to go that way. Those fools didn't bother calling me today, and I didn't have time to chase it down.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-04-2012, 06:29 PM   #87
Jason
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Today's update:

I nicked the frame in two places when I cut off the old engine mounts, one was just a little nick, the other was about 0.08 in deep. Again, not big enough to affect the structure, but big enough to annoy me.

So I ran a little weld over the areas. This was the deep one:


Ground it down smooth, and you'd never know it was there.


Here's where the mounts go on the frame. For a reference, the stock mounts also attach to the UCA mount.


I got the t-cases up on the bench. You can see a few differences.


Planning on taking the t-cases apart and swapping parts tomorrow.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-05-2012, 11:15 PM   #88
Jason
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Transfer Case: Input gear and Dodge chain swap

Tonight I split the transfer cases apart with the goal of swapping the 23 spline input gear from the Dodge case to the Jeep case because it came with a 21 spline gear and I need 23 spline for the 46RH transplant. Here's a little writeup on what I did. If anyone sees any omissions or has any questions, please let me know.

There are a few differences between the Dodge and Jeep cases, but they are mostly the same. I took pics as I disassembled the Dodge case because I did that one first.

Drain the case first. You'll still end up with fluid on your bench, hands, lap, tools, whatever. Make sure you loosen the fill plug before the drain so you know you can get fluid back in it. As I disassemble each piece, I clean it with some brake cleaner.

First, I removed the front yoke. I used my impact. If you don't have an impact, take the front yoke off before removing the t-case from the vehicle so the wheels/engine keep the yoke from spinning. I put some vise grips on the flange to help keep it from spinning.



After that, I took the 4 10mm bolts off the bearing retainer.



The bearing retainer is sealed with RTV, so it needs to broken off gently. Remember, the case is aluminum. There's a little notch on each side, 180 from each other. I just pried gently with a screwdriver and it popped off.



This is the input shaft that needs to be removed.



The case needs to be split to remove this. There are 15mm bolts around the outside of the case that all need to come out. On the Jeep case, there was one 12-point 10mm bolt on the top in the middle. I have no idea why.



A few of the bolts are different from the others. The little smudge of yellow paint is what I used to mark where the different bolts went. After the bolts are out, split the case halves. Again, it's sealed with RTV. There are two openings you can carefully pry with a screwdriver.



Once you break the seal, you can wiggle and slide the two halves apart. Be careful not to drop anything.



Remove the mode fork and rail, mode sleeve, range fork and range hub. Don't loose the spring. Make note of how it all goes together. The mode sleeve has two different sides. It should all just slide out from it's home. The range hub and the mode sleeve that live in their respective forks pop out pretty easy, so be careful.



The input shaft is in the planetary gearset. To free the planetary gearset, you have to remove this lockring on the outside of the case. This is under the bearing retainer removed in a prior step. Now, a good set of lock ring (NOT snap ring) pliers does come in handy here, and some would say absolutely necessary, but I did it without them. That being said, I did order a new pair to speed up this job because there are 3 lock rings I needed to remove and reinstall. Because they are reused, you can't mangle them.



They can be a pain to remove. There it is.



After that, the planetary assembly is removed from the inside of the case half. I tapped it a little with my deadblow hammer to loosen it and it came right out.



Now that the planetary is removed from the case, there's another lockring to remove. This one holds the input shaft in the planetary assembly.



Under the lockring, there is a retainer and a tabbed washer. The tabbed washer has little detents in it. Make note of the order they come out.



After that the input gear is freed!



At this point, all that needs to happen is install the new input gear and assemble the case in reverse order of removal. Clean of all the old RTV, being careful not to gouge the mating surfaces. I used a wire cup on my die grinder after I picked off the big stuff. There are a few special notes below about the input bearing and oil passage near the end of this write up. If I was using a Jeep 23 spline input gear, I probably wouldn't have an issue with the bearing.

Here are the differences between the two gears. Dodge on left, Jeep on right.



Again, Dodge on left, Jeep on right



I measured the retainer and tabbed washer to make sure there was no difference in the thickness because it would have affected where the gear ended up. They were identical.



I reassembled the input gear into the planetary assembly, then installed the planetary assembly into the case half. I turned the shaft by hand and felt a little binding every half turn. If I spun it fast, it sort of went tick-tick-tick as it spun. If I spun it slow, it had a little resistance when it hit that point. It was so slight I almost left it, but it was bothering me so I pulled it apart and inserted the assembly into the Dodge case half and the noise was gone. I looked at the bearing that the input shaft sits in, and the Dodge case was flush on the inside, while the Jeep bearing was recessed. The case thickness is the same; the Jeep bearing is smaller. Because the bearing was smaller, the input gear was set in the case too far and was hitting a rib on the case.



So I set out to swap the bearing too. Again, I don't think this would have been an issue with a Jeep input gear. There's another lockring on the outside that holds this in. Needs to be removed.



I grabbed my race driver and popped out the bearing.



Did the same on the Dodge case and installed the Dodge bearing into the Jeep case. Noise was gone.

While I had everything apart, I noted that that the Dodge chain is 1/4" wider than the Jeep. 1 1/4 inch vs. 1 inch.



I did a little research an seen others have done different Jeep/Dodge/Chevy t-case mash ups before, although I didn't see anything exactly like this. So I set off to see what it would take to get the Dodge chain in the Jeep case. I thought it would be a nice little upgrade.

The mode ring and gear are bigger as well.



So there's another lockring to undo which allows the mode hub and drive sprocket to slide off the mainshaft. Then I simply slid the larger Dodge sprockets, chain and front output in place of the Jeep stuff I just pulled out. This part is just like a regular SYE install, except the sprockets get replaced instead of the mainshaft, but the steps are the same so I didn't take any pictures.

There's one thing to point out when reassembling. There is an oil passage that must be aligned when the bearing retainer is reinstalled. You can see the passage in the cover and the extra hole in the case. It is at the bottom of the bolt pattern. Don't forget RTV on the cover.

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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-06-2012, 07:36 AM   #89
ben34mod
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Nice write up...thanks for the info!
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Unread 12-06-2012, 09:27 AM   #90
Jason
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Thanks. I hoped someone would find it helpful.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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