Waggy axle would give me a 6 lug pattern, no? I'd end up mismatched with the rear being an 8.
Absolutely. On the flip side, you could run adapter-spacers to match the width to the rear 8-bolt axle and match lug patterns on the narrow-track Waggy LP44.
Or do the LP60 that I mentioned, and you'd have the 8-bolt from the get go. 35 spline carriers are plentiful. Not sure about outers, though.
Or run a semi-float 14b? I believe a bunch came in 6-bolt. But that's not worth it just to match patterns.
A word of caution that I'm sure you're already aware of: narrower track full-size axles, like the narrow C&C 14bolt you mentioned earlier with it being approx 63" WMS-to-WMS, make it a lot more difficult to package everything you need onto the axle tubes (coil mounts, links etc) because of the size of the differential and the way that the spindles and backing plates etc take up more real estate than, say, your average TJ D44.
(I know more about axles than I do wiring motors. )
"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
Tire size goal is 40". I don't want to have to baby it. The rear does most of the work. 8-lug wheels are easy to find. Etc., etc., etc. I don't think a semi-float rear belongs on this build.
I think you can upgrade the outers on a LP60 to 35 spline. Even then, 30 spline outers would still be decent. Not ideal, but probably decent.
I understand that about the narrow axles, especially the big chunk on the 14B. (On a related note, you should see the AAM 11.5 in my SRW truck. It's flipping huge.) But I welcome all discussion on axles and what not. I've done axle swaps that were mostly bolt-on; rebuild and regears. This 4 linkin' big axle stuff is new challenges for me.
I don't know. I'm a whore. If I can make money, I'll sell it. That's just more money for the next project. If I was offered the right money for the 2005 TJ or the Duramax, I'd sell them too. I sold my last two trucks for a profit, which was much of the reason I let them go. I'm getting the itch to build something different right now.
I do like driving Betty though, and it has been fun building it up.
Well the wiring is done. Not that bad once you dive into it, the info on the tranny relay helped speed things up now hopefully it will run by the end of the weekend. I would like to get at the diffs and lift in the next few weeks. I will hopefully get at thread going over the next week or so. I am thinking of triangulating the rear and doing 3 link in the front with a single upper, like the genright one. I'm not sold on the 3 link front yet but I will see how it looks once the truss is tacked to the diff. I will take a few measurements once the engine is back in the frame. currently the 4" lift should leave enough clearance for the HP 44 (up travel is important for the wheeling I do).
The jeep runs!!! Not completely assembled but it runs so i didn't f-up the wiring, With the 1" body lift I was able to run the stock manifolds and the dodge y pipe. It doesn't get much easier than that, and the t case shifter is really close as well. The fuel lines from the tj work perfectly, only needed a couple bends. Now for the rad and a few mods to the shifter as it was TJ auto before I started. I must say this is a great project for anyone looking for a little brain food.
Congrats. I was able to clear the stock manifolds and y-pipe with no body lift, but I did beat down the body seam on the tub to clear it. In the end I couldn't use the factory stuff because I went with the auto transmission.
Hmmm.. I have an auto too, my plan was to get shifter links hooked up tonight. what interferes? I hope my excitment wasn't premature, I was just so happy it was running I never looked too close at that side of things.
Which trans did you have? Either I never knew or have forgotten.
My issue was that the donor Dodge (Ram 1500 truck) was a column shift, so it had a crazy side shifting linkage thingamabob. The TJ is a floor mounted, cable shift. The Y-pipe ran right where the cable shifter would end up. I used the Dodge 46RE transmission.
You can see my original post about the interference and a link to a thread I posted in the ZJ forum HERE, then a follow up when I figured it out HERE.
I could have made a bracket pretty easily, but I wanted to use off the self parts as much as possible and keep the fab to a minimum. That should make parts replacement easier than if I made custom stuff.
Another thing to keep in mind is the throw of the shift arm on the transmission. The arm that was on the Dodge transmission was too long for the Jeep shifter. If I matched up park on the transmission and shift lever in the Jeep there was enough of a difference that when the Jeep was in 1, the transmission was only in 2. I had to used a different shift arm to get it to work correctly.