Ugly Betty - TJ Magnum V8 Conversion and more - Page 15 - JeepForum.com

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post #211 of 746 Old 01-03-2013, 06:21 PM
greenmachine99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason

I opened up a 98 ZJ FSM and it shows an electric fan on the 5.9 and a mech on the other two engines, but it also show a viscous fan drive (mechanical) for 5.2 and 5.9 engines. So there was an electric one on at least some of them.

The parts jockey at the big box store showed an electric on both the 5.2 and 5.9.
Weird. Just looked it up on rock auto and their replacement fan is an electric.

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post #212 of 746 Old 01-03-2013, 09:31 PM
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98 and earlier Grands used a mechanical 5(?) blade fan, this is the fan I used, it has a smaller clutch compared to the Durango clutch, I can get you a measurement in the morning, I'm into mine under $20 from eBay (won it for a penny and like $19 for shipping) I got my tj 4.0 shroud from eBay as well, brand new under $60 to my door. Using the stock TJ shroud has allowed others I've heard be able to retain oem overflow bottle, just got home from Florida and will be resuming my own swap, once I rescue the jeep from under 2 feet of snow in the morning I will be able to get some fan measurements and maybe a picture
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post #213 of 746 Old 01-03-2013, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
Jason
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Thanks, I'd appreciate the measurement.

Edit; I'll measure mine tomorrow for comparison. I don't know about the grand fan, but on my Ram fan the blades are spaced unevenly.


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post #214 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
Jason
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Here's something interesting. I noticed that the Dodge transmission seems to clock the t-case downward quite a bit more than the Jeep. I eyeballed my 2005 and the 97 for comparison. (The 2005 is hard to tell because it's tucked up so high.) All of the clocking rings I can find for the Dodge move the front output DOWN, instead of up, to resolve front driveshaft issues for the truck guys. I need the opposite.

I found this, and might try to make it work: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f43/x.../#post13851125


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post #215 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 10:42 AM
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Most people just re drill the trans to get it to the proper clocking position, it's only about 4 degrees difference, like from 13-17 which equates to rotating the assembly about but not quite a quarter inch, in most of the write ups I've found, drilling the tcase adapter on the trans is more common than clocking rings
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post #216 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, the link in my last post is a jig to drill new holes. My only concern would be the strength.


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post #217 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 10:57 AM
bangintin
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I'm with ya on that, in my application where I'm going to the dana 300 with a stak case I won't be needing to do this, because you are talking rotational force, shear strength of your bolts will determine the strength, as long as you have a reasonable amount of material between the holes and since there is no push or pull while twisting, you shouldn't have an issue with strength.

I exhumed the jeep from its snow tomb and measured the depth of the fan clutch, from the face of the water pump pulley to the face of the fan clutch it is 4.25" the stock 98 Grand mechanical fan is a 5 blade fan, I grabbed 2 picks with my phone the best I could and attached below



image-1422254883.jpg



image-2165363513.jpg
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post #218 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
Jason
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I have 4.25" from the end of the threaded stub on the water pump pulley with the fan clutch removed, to the radiator. The mechanical fan clears fine front to back; its the height that I'm concerned about. What's the measurement from the center of the fan clutch to the edge of the fan blade?


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post #219 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 11:34 AM
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From the furthest outer edge of the fan blade to the center of the clutch is 9 7/16"
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post #220 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Mine is 10" from the center to the edge of the blade, so maybe the 5.2 fan will work.


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post #221 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 03:00 PM
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As far as a jig goes, make your own, piece of scrap sheet metal, a sharpie and a drill bit will do the trick, take a hole saw and punch a hole in the sheetmetal so the output shaft on the trans won't interfere with it sitting flush, clamp metal to trans, use the sharpie and make your marks from the front side of original mounting holes, the hole diameter and the diameter of the sharpie will force it to self center, pull it off, drill where you made the marks, and then put your jig on and start seeing where you stand,
Do not pay for a jig, I beg you!! I have my transfer case off and can make you one for the cost to ship if you really need one, or don't have something laying around to do it.
Hate to see you spend unnecessary money, if you want to spend money, just lookup np231 clocking rings on eBay, they are cheap enough and will do what you want it to do without any drilling..
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post #222 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 03:18 PM
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post #223 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
Jason
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You think the 3/8" thickness of the clocking ring could cause an issue with the input gear meshing? I mean, it's 3/8" less engaged.

I could fab up one, but I like the one that's pre-made and all perfect already.


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post #224 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 03:42 PM
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I have heard of no negative inputs from any clocking rings over the years, not from vendors or users, the loss in effective engagement does not seem to have any ill affect, most tummy tuck kits require one and to my knowledge of the thousands done, none have noted any issues related to malfunction or breakage as a result of one.
I can see why a nice jig has appeal, but in the end it's a 3/8-1/2" hand drill doing the work, a mere 1/4-1/2 inch thick jig doesn't ensure a drill bit will travel square and straight the drill bit itself has the ability to oblong the hole of the jig, no matter who makes it.
Guess I'm looking at it from a fabricator/metalworkers angle....


On a separate note; I'd be interested in seeing what you did for your trans mount, did you use the dodge mount bracket and all?
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post #225 of 746 Old 01-04-2013, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'm going to have to mull it over for while. Right now the t-case is in there and ready to go, so I'm not going to mess with it again until I'm ready to tuck. Main goal was to get this bugger running and worry about the rest later, while keeping in mind future plans (I put the motor mounts at the angle the driveline will ultimately be when tucked, for example).

Even with the jig, you'd have to use a little care and common sense. I know others have used clocking rings in the past, I just have no experience with them. I didn't think the engagement would be an issue, but don't know because I have no personal experience.

So I guess pros and cons are; with a Jig I'd have to buy or make it myself and risk screwing up the holes (entirely a possibility), and the clocking ring is that 3/8" spacing, but it shouldn't really affect it. Ring cost more than buying a jig, which costs more than making a jig.

Isn't this fun?

All I did for the trans mount was use the existing Dodge mount. There were two existing holes that lined up pretty good on the factory skid. I enlarged and elongated them so I had a little adjustment, and used the existing bolts for the trans mount. Not ideal and probably won't be permanent, but I didn't want to cut up the factory Jeep mount until I get to building a new skidplate. Not sure if I took any pics, but I'll dig through them an see if I have one.


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