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Unread 12-16-2012, 05:02 PM   #136
Jason
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Eaton Rapids, Michigan
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In order for that Durango bracket to work, I'd need to re-route the exhaust. I spent a good while fiddling with it today, and it seems like the exhaust is going to interfere with anything I do. Ideally, the cable would be about 3 inches shorter, but I'm not sure if I can get away with shortening it or not. I think I'm just going to order the jug hugger headers. I guess if I don't use them I can sell them, but it looks like I may need to.

The other thing is the throw on the shifter cable is wrong. If I start at P on the shift lever with the cable in place, when the transmission lever is at 2, the floor shifter is at 1. So I need to change the point where the cable attaches to correct the throw. Not a huge deal, but notable anyways. I'm going to see if I can find a ZJ 44RE/46RE transmission shift lever because it appears to be bent so the mounting point is upward, instead of mine that angles downward slightly. I'm also going to try to find a Durango cable mount, and maybe a cable too. I think the two items might work together to make this work.

I've done lots of digging and looking at parts drawings. Tomorrow morning I'm going to call around to the parts yards and see who has what. I think a ZJ manual shift arm and a Durango mount might get it done. If not, I can make a bracket.

(Editorial; I think a manual would have been easier.)

Since I've been mulling that over, I decided to put the auto brake pedal in. When it was in, the pedal didn't contact the stop light switch. I removed it, compared to the original pedal and there are no differences. I've lost most of the brake fluid because one of the lines broke. Maybe that's preventing the rod from fully extending? I pulled on it pretty hard and it wouldn't come any further. (Side note; I've considered using the larger Ram master cylinder since I have it. Not sure of the feasibility of that, but it might come in handy for later brake upgrades.) Since I can't pressurize the system at this point, I'm putting the pedal off for now. I'll deal with it when I can get the system pressure up, which won't occur until I bend new lines, which isn't going to happen until the engine is mounted so I don't screw them up.

I put the engine back in the Jeep and the clearance looks real good. There's still some tweaking that needs to be done on those cooler lines, but I need to get the shifter in there to make sure it all clears. I shoved the drivetrain up until it hit the tub, made the motor mounts on the frame parallel and tacked them in. With the drivetrain pushed all the way up, I'm about 1/2 or 1 inch below the frame rails. The t-case is contacting the tub, so I may just beat that with a hammer to get clearance. The auto tranny pan will be the lowest thing under there. Later, I may put a small spacer on the engine mount to get it up a little, but it definitely needs a skid plate. But that's down the road.

That's the update for now.

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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-16-2012, 08:24 PM   #137
bangintin
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hmmm, that is all pretty interesting... was suggesting from memory and not anything to substantiate it. I am using the stock durango headers and Y pipe and not seeing the same isses, I wonder why your experiencing this with the auto??
I am trying to wrap my brain around the idea that there is issues with converting from an auto to manual, ram 2500's had a gas 5.9 with a manual (although rare)
the dakota came with a 5.9 5 speed as well and the ram 1500's with a 5.2 and a manual were plentiful base model rigs, it seems that whatever the problem is, cant really be that much of a problem, at least thats what I keep telling myself! haha
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Unread 12-16-2012, 08:41 PM   #138
Jason
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You have to have a 5.9 manual PCM, which as you said are not very common. You can have an auto PCM flashed, but that's just more expense. There's also the flywheel vs. flexplate thing, but that's not too big of a challenge.

You got a pic of how your Durango downpipe routes? You're using an NV3500 so you don't have to worry about the shifter and exhaust interference. If I had a manual, the stock downpipe wouldn't be a problem.

Get a build thread so I can follow yours.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-16-2012, 08:41 PM   #139
bangintin
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I just set the mounts on a 3 degree pitch with the dowels in place and burned them in, if i could suggest not having the motor sit level and have a slight pitch back, with the goal to point the towards the rear pinion, this will all help with things as you get further down the road with lifts, driveshafts etc... that was my thought when I set my mounts. the AA mounts were designed to sit higher and were engineered with the stock skid plate as the base, so in doing this they essentially built in a motor lift to help with end driveline angles...??
despite the fluid levels being low that should not have an affect on the brake light switch plunger from engaging. I have a set of auto pedals from a TJ in the garage and can give them a look tomorrow and can try and give better insight
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Unread 12-16-2012, 08:47 PM   #140
bangintin
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haha, yea I guess I should just get my own, I am actually going to get the auto PCM flashed, the manual was an after thought, I got my durango for $600 and pulled it in the driveway and started tearing it down and selling parts, looked at the cost of pedals and BS and decided to go with a manual, well, lets just say that was not the cheaper route...
I was just wondering about the clearances because if the y pipe worked on the donor, one would think it would work on the jeep..

guess I will go get my own build thread now
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Unread 12-16-2012, 09:00 PM   #141
Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bangintin View Post
I just set the mounts on a 3 degree pitch with the dowels in place and burned them in, if i could suggest not having the motor sit level and have a slight pitch back, with the goal to point the towards the rear pinion, this will all help with things as you get further down the road with lifts, driveshafts etc... that was my thought when I set my mounts. the AA mounts were designed to sit higher and were engineered with the stock skid plate as the base, so in doing this they essentially built in a motor lift to help with end driveline angles...??
despite the fluid levels being low that should not have an affect on the brake light switch plunger from engaging. I have a set of auto pedals from a TJ in the garage and can give them a look tomorrow and can try and give better insight
Did you test fit at all? My mounts are pitched back a little, even with the t-case jammed into the tub. It was about 2 or 3 when I measured tonight. Driveline angles aren't a big concern for me because I'm going to end up with an SYE and DC driveshaft, and maybe a stretch eventually, so I wanted the motor mounts positioned for the future drivetrain alignment. I think they would be angled even more with the stock skid.

I was thinking along the same lines with the brake pedal. I don't think it comes out any further. I think I'll just end up bending the arm that the switch attaches to, but I don't want to do that until the brake system has pressure in it.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

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Unread 12-16-2012, 11:25 PM   #142
bangintin
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yeah,I did do some test fitting first, and with the stock skid the angle is drastic, to be honest it has me thinking about just fabbing up a crossmember out of some tubing and 3/16" plate for now since as it sits is stock, and my future plans are much the same as yours, but I feel like without doing some "in between stages" fab and mods, it will be difficult to get things where I want them, and I am not someone that likes to go backwards or rework things, seems like you are much the same.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 07:59 AM   #143
Jason
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That was my exact thought. Honestly, I just don't have the coin to do everything I want to do all at once, but I'm going to try to not have to rework things more than once if I can avoid it.

I also thought about making a separate crossmember for the transmission mount, rather than letting the skid support it. That way once the drivetrain is all mounted I could remove the skid plate without supporting the transmission. Not sure on that one, still working it out.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 11:23 PM   #144
Jason
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One of the funner parts of a build is new tools. I got my Hobart 210 today. This thing cooks. Tons more power. Having a little trouble with the settings, but it will just take time to get used to it.

One issue is that I only have one 240V outlet in the garage, and the cord on this thing is maybe 8 feet. So, I bought a heavy duty extension cord. It is the fancy kind that lights up the ends when it's plugged in. Ohhh. Ahhhh.



Of course, it's only designed for a standard 120V outlet. My 240V outlet and new welder are 6-50P. So how do I fix that? Simple! Hack the ends of that pretty new extension cord.



Add a 5-60P plug to one end, and a surface mount outlet to the other, and I gots me a 240V extension cord.

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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

Quote:
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Unread 12-18-2012, 09:33 AM   #145
--chris--
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
One of the funner parts of a build is new tools. I got my Hobart 210 today. This thing cooks. Tons more power. Having a little trouble with the settings, but it will just take time to get used to it.

One issue is that I only have one 240V outlet in the garage, and the cord on this thing is maybe 8 feet. So, I bought a heavy duty extension cord. It is the fancy kind that lights up the ends when it's plugged in. Ohhh. Ahhhh.



Of course, it's only designed for a standard 120V outlet. My 240V outlet and new welder are 6-50P. So how do I fix that? Simple! Hack the ends of that pretty new extension cord.



Add a 5-60P plug to one end, and a surface mount outlet to the other, and I gots me a 240V extension cord.


You should wire that whole thing straight into the box and just have a 25' power cord on your new shiny Hobart

Not going to lie, im pretty sure thats what my current welder has on it (but 35' long). Works fine, of course i never get above setting 1 of 3 on the amperage lol.

edit: Wait n/m...you have that nice MVP feature on it. disregard.
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Unread 12-18-2012, 11:00 AM   #146
Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by --chris-- View Post
You should wire that whole thing straight into the box and just have a 25' power cord on your new shiny Hobart

Not going to lie, im pretty sure thats what my current welder has on it (but 35' long). Works fine, of course i never get above setting 1 of 3 on the amperage lol.

edit: Wait n/m...you have that nice MVP feature on it. disregard.
Never been a fan of 240V extension cords. My arc welder has a short cord, but really long welding leads. I think I'm going to bolt the outlet side of the extension cord to the welder cart. That way no one tries to use it for anything else. Although the circuit and outlets are 50 amps, the 12 gauge cord is really not a great idea to run 50 amps through. 8 gauge would be sufficient and that's what's in the wall. But, the welder never draws 50 amps, and the owners manual actually says 14 gauge is enough for a up to a 53 foot extension cord. I upped that to 12 for safety when constructing this cord.

I haven't tried the 120V setting yet, but the specs are very similar to my 140 amp MIG. I imagine it runs the same. I was surprised at how much oomph it has even on the lower settings when hooked up to 240V. The 140 would burn through 1/8" on the highest setting if you tried hard enough. Last night when I was fiddling with it, the 210 was burning right through 1/8" on position 4 (of 7). I ended up backing it down to 2 to get a decent bead.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post
We're men! We don't need no stinkin directions!
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Unread 12-18-2012, 11:06 AM   #147
Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bangintin View Post
I just set the mounts on a 3 degree pitch with the dowels in place and burned them in
I ended up right near 3:



So after I got a comfortable with the settings on my new welder, I burnt the mounts in:



I cleaned everything off with some solvent, and laid on a quick coat of primer. I'm going to paint everything flat black when this is dried.

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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post
We're men! We don't need no stinkin directions!
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Unread 12-18-2012, 01:23 PM   #148
Jason
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Join Date: May 2009
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I still haven't received my radiator yet from Oconee Offroad. Yesterday was three weeks since I ordered it. I called them and the guy told me it was made and ready to go on the dock. Said I'd get an email with tracking info yesterday or today. Got nothing so far. Not a big deal because I'm not that far yet, but it is moving along.

I ordered those jug hugger headers yesterday from Summit racing. The showed up here today. Now that's fast.

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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

Quote:
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Unread 12-18-2012, 02:59 PM   #149
bangintin
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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I deal with electrical circuits for commercial and industrial HVAC systems and am a journeyman sheet metal worker/welder by trade, I am with you on the 8 gauge for 50 amp circuits, and when you get much above a 25 ft run I tend to go with 6 gauge wire. I have the lincoln power mig 255, and precision tig 225 and both are running 6 gauge 30ft cords from the outlet to the box, I ran 60 amp circuits with a 50amp fused disconnect. welding is all about the voltage, its my opinion that providing the cleanest power with the least amount of drop to the machine will provide the best base for a consistently good weld and a long lasting machine.
Congrats on the new machine and nice welds!! you're commited now, the rest is easy ;-)
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Unread 12-18-2012, 03:29 PM   #150
Jason
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Thanks man. I'm just an amateur, so I appreciate the validation from a professional on my welding. I was playing with it last night, and I couldn't get my vertical uphill to look nice. I finally got it dialed in pretty good this morning. (The vertical weld on the left in the pic above wasn't me; the horizontal one and the vertical on the right are mine.)

While the paint is drying, I removed the old exhaust headers. Broke 3 of the bolts, so I'll be fiddling with that for a while. Yay.
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"Ugly Betty" Build - 97 TJ 5.9 Magnum / 46RE Swap

Quote:
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