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Ugly Betty - TJ Magnum V8 Conversion and more

185K views 745 replies 48 participants last post by  Jason 
#1 ·
Ugly Betty - TJ Magnum V8 conversion, Auto transmission swap and more, if I survive this.

Prologue:

I have a 2005 TJ with the I6 that I built running 35s. When I bought it, I was looking for a super clean, low mile, unmolested Jeep to build on. It has D44 / HPD30 / Tummy Tucked / 4.56s and a bunch of other goodies. It functions really well for the kind of stuff we do around here, but is still comfortable enough to drive daily if necessary.


^^ As dirty as it ever gets. ^^

The problem is it's too nice for me to damage or drill a bunch of holes in. It gets stored in the winter because of the destructive salt used on the road 6 months out of the year. The 05 has some pinstripes and nicks from the trails, but I want to get on some harder trails and really push what I can build. I'm going to continue to "build" it, but the upgrades will be fairly minor at this point. Brakes, steering and the like.

So I set out to buy a cheap TJ. I want something that I don't feel bad about cutting holes in or generally abusing. Around here, it's next to impossible to find a running TJ of any year that isn't falling apart for under $5K. Most times cheap TJs in my area were plagued with cancerous rust. I researched insurance auctions, but found that to be very difficult without an inside man, public auctions had pretty big fees, and even wrecked Wranglers can go for close to retail cost. I checked out Davey's Jeeps, and the one that I found with potential sold the day after I called about it. I even found a few folks with bare frames and bodies, but once you add up the odds and ends, it gets just as expensive as buying a complete TJ. Needless to say, I spent much time searching.

I finally happened across a fairly solid 97 TJ with a 4 cylinder. It had a new factory style top, new tires, and the frame and body were mostly rust free. The carpet was long gone and interior was lined with the spray in liner. It was about 2.5 hours away. I took an afternoon off work and drove out to see it, pocket full of cash and trailer in tow.

It was located just north of Detroit. I met the guy at his shop near the corner of a busy intersection. I ended up parking in the lot next door to his place because it looked easier to get the truck + trailer in and out. The Jeep started, and drove around the parking lot without much fuss, so I handed the guy some money. I didn't want to try to turn left into the traffic, then left again to get into the parking lot where my truck and trailer were parked, and I don't know the area, so I did what any good Jeeper would do and just drove it over the curb through the grass. (It wasn't that big, but I still thought it was funny.) On to the trailer and home we went.

The paint scheme was unique, and certainly not what I would have chosen. She's got a few other minor bumps and bruises too. Since I am now a two-Jeep household again, I couldn't simply refer to either as "the Jeep" anymore. I started calling it Ugly Betty, and the name kind of stuck.


^^ Beauty, in the eye of the beholder. I guess. ^^
 
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#671 ·
Finally got a sunny day, so I took a few more pics. Other than that, I've been waiting on the replacement weatherstrip for the passenger side. I replaced the air filter because the one I was using was in poor shape and was only meant to be temporary. Also, the power steering box is leaking a little. Need to decide if I want to fix that or not. I think I will let it ride for now because I'm not sure what I will eventually do with the suspension. The front end may require a different steering box so no sense in replacing it twice.





 
#673 ·
Thanks, I've been having fun with it.

I still haven't received the replacement weather seal. They claimed to have sent it 9 days ago. I emailed the seller since I haven't received it and got no response in 24 hours. So now I have to go though all the crap of creating a case with Ebay. SBC Offroad in Gainsville Georgia. What a pain in the ***.
 
#676 ·
Hey man. Nice to see you're still alive.

I've been driving ol' girl a lot lately. Used it as a grocery getter the other day, literally. Everything seems fine except the power steering box is leaking. I removed the rear seat belts because the buckles rattle on the tub floor, and the rear seat hasn't been installed in about 2 years. My dog is the only body that would ride back there, and that's only on the rare occasion I had a front seat passenger. (Thinking about selling it actually.) I still have a set of spark plugs I've been meaning to install. Might change the oil -- don't remember the last time I did that.

Still nothing about my passenger side door seal. Dealing with these idiots at SBC Offroad in Gainsville Georgia has been a painful experience. First they said they sent a replacement, then they said they didn't, then they said they did. They don't respond to emails for days, and when they do it's like someone told them if you randomly put worlds next to each other a sentence magically forms that humans can comprehend. Seriously, it's like a job requirement to be a 3 time dropout of English as a second language class for the staff there. Ebay's case management is equally painful.
 
#675 ·
Jason said:
Thanks, I've been having fun with it. I still haven't received the replacement weather seal. They claimed to have sent it 9 days ago. I emailed the seller since I haven't received it and got no response in 24 hours. So now I have to go though all the crap of creating a case with Ebay. SBC Offroad in Gainsville Georgia. What a pain in the ***.
is the seller SBC? If so, Scotty Bobby is one of the most stand up guys I've met. Does killer work. If he said he sent it, it got sent. I can call him if you like.
 
#677 ·
The seller is "extremeoffroad39" on Ebay and there's no other identifying information. However, the return label went to SBC Offroad in Gainsville, GA. Any emails I've had with them were not signed so I don't know what individual I was talking to. If you feel a phone call would get it straightened out, feel free to call on my behalf. I'm glad you've had a good experience and the guy may be a good wrench, but my experience is that customer service and communication skills are severely lacking. Details of the issue are below.

I initially contacted them about the issue (receiving driver side instead of the correct passenger side) via email on Oct. 18 and they indicated the correct one would be sent. Two days later (Oct. 20) they requested photos of the incorrect item. I provided the requested photos. They responded the next day (Oct. 21) that the correct part would be sent that day and they would send me a label to return the incorrect one. I was going to re-use the box the correct one came in once it arrived to return the incorrect one. Eight days (Oct. 29) later I still did not receive it, so I emailed them. On Nov. 1 they replied that they had not sent it and had not received the return of the incorrect part. That makes sense because I didn't yet return the incorrect part. They didn't express the want for that prior to sending the correct one. Instead, they twice said the correct part was on the way. I shouldn't have to incur the expense of finding a box for it to fit, packaging material, etc., etc., but would have done so if they just said that right off the bat.

So I'm going to dig around for a sensible box to send it back, then the next day, Nov. 2, they emailed and said the correct part shipped "last week." I've not seen the correct part, pointed out the flip-flop on their story, and asked for a tracking number for the replacement. The response to this was that it shipped "last week." I again asked for a tracking number and received no response.

So I don't know if I send the thing back, or wait for the replacement that was (maybe?) sent? I had an issue with a seller years ago on Ebay that asked me to send the item back. I did, they claimed they never got it, which they did with many different buyers. I got screwed out of the money, so I'm not terribly eager to be in that same position again. I opened up a case with Ebay, hopefully to get some support in resolving the issue, but extremely frustrated that I have to go to the trouble because they won't just send me the part I ordered in the first place.
 
#681 ·
Spoke with Scotty last night. Didn't know he had gotten into the Internet biz. Sucks someone so talented can't make a killing doing custom work.
Anyhow, he said he would take care of it. They usually do not ship replacement parts until they receive the old one due to the amount of Internet fraud.
 
#683 ·
Thanks for your efforts. I understand waiting for the return shipment in the case of refund, but they sent the wrong stuff in the first place. I'd even understand asking for the return first, particularly if this was an expensive part. (Wouldn't like it, but would do it.)

In this case, they twice said a new one was sent. Then they said it wasn't. Then again said it did. They've stopped responding to my emails, and are apparently ignoring Ebay's as well.

Thanks again for your efforts, I truly appreciate it, but I'm done with these jokers. I'd just as soon get a refund and order from another vendor so I can just be done with it. It's now been almost a month waiting for one stupid part.
 
#685 ·
I added a button to operate the horn. There were a few times I wanted one, so I added it. Got my CB (re)installed in case of a winter run. Still working on odds and ends.

Changed the spark plugs and one of them did not want to turn. Like, at all. I didn't want to break it, so I worked it about 1/4 turn at a time. Soaked it in Kroil and waited an hour for it to soak. Another 1/4, soak, rinse and repeat. I finally got it out but I sure was worried it was going to break. I don't want to pull the heads for something as dumb as a broken spark plug.

I reset the trip when I filled the tank last. Going to see what I get MPG wise with normal driving, now that it's together enough to drive normally.
 
#686 ·
I added a button to operate the horn. There were a few times I wanted one, so I added it. Got my CB (re)installed in case of a winter run. Still working on odds and ends.

Changed the spark plugs and one of them did not want to turn. Like, at all. I didn't want to break it, so I worked it about 1/4 turn at a time. Soaked it in Kroil and waited an hour for it to soak. Another 1/4, soak, rinse and repeat. I finally got it out but I sure was worried it was going to break. I don't want to pull the heads for something as dumb as a broken spark plug.

I reset the trip when I filled the tank last. Going to see what I get MPG wise with normal driving, now that it's together enough to drive normally.
It wouldn't hurt to put some Never Seize on the sparkplug threads, so it won't ever happen again. You didn't cross-thread it, did you?
 
#691 ·
I received the passenger side seal from another vendor yesterday and installed it today. Since the Jeep was outside during a snow storm with no passenger side door while I was installing the seal, I pulled it up parallel to the garage door to minimize the snow accumulation inside the tub. Came out a while later and noticed coolant leaking underneath it. Lower radiator hose was loose, so I put a couple turns on it. Also noticed one of the motor mount bolts was loose, and I can't get a wrench on it to save my life, tried for about an hour. Going to have to take some of the other bolts loose and jack the engine up a hair to tighten the loose bolt.

Also managed to kill the battery with the dome light. Lol.
 
#692 ·
I received the passenger side seal from another vendor yesterday and installed it today. Since the Jeep was outside during a snow storm with no passenger side door while I was installing the seal, I pulled it up parallel to the garage door to minimize the snow accumulation inside the tub. Came out a while later and noticed coolant leaking underneath it. Lower radiator hose was loose, so I put a couple turns on it. Also noticed one of the motor mount bolts was loose, and I can't get a wrench on it to save my life, tried for about an hour. Going to have to take some of the other bolts loose and jack the engine up a hair to tighten the loose bolt.

Also managed to kill the battery with the dome light. Lol.
Sounds like a pretty successful day..... Not. Haha
 
#697 ·
Haven't been on in a while, so I thought I'd post here. Someone send me a PM about wiring, so I had to sign in, but his PMs are full so I couldn't respond.

Haven't done a whole lot to the old beasty but drive it. Gas prices continue to drop, and my "real" daily driver is a diesel pickup. Diesel prices remain high so I've parked the truck and just drive the Jeep around for now. I gave it a bath to rinse the road salt off yesterday.

The headlights suck. Considering some kind of upgrade. I might take the H4 housings out of my other Jeep and put them in this one, then upgrade to LEDs on that one. Not sure yet. A cheaper upgrade would probably suffice.

Because the starter is on the opposite side from the battery it runs under the transmission housing. I don't like it there because it seems exposed. I'd like to re route it, but I think I might need to lengthen it.

I still need to permanently wire the cooling fan. I'd like the low setting to be automatic and temperature controlled. Right now I have the low setting on a switch, and high isn't even hooked up. It seems to cool fine even without the fan running.
 
#698 ·
Haven't been on in a while, so I thought I'd post here. Someone send me a PM about wiring, so I had to sign in, but his PMs are full so I couldn't respond.

Haven't done a whole lot to the old beasty but drive it. Gas prices continue to drop, and my "real" daily driver is a diesel pickup. Diesel prices remain high so I've parked the truck and just drive the Jeep around for now. I gave it a bath to rinse the road salt off yesterday.

The headlights suck. Considering some kind of upgrade. I might take the H4 housings out of my other Jeep and put them in this one, then upgrade to LEDs on that one. Not sure yet. A cheaper upgrade would probably suffice.

Because the starter is on the opposite side from the battery it runs under the transmission housing. I don't like it there because it seems exposed. I'd like to re route it, but I think I might need to lengthen it.

I still need to permanently wire the cooling fan. I'd like the low setting to be automatic and temperature controlled. Right now I have the low setting on a switch, and high isn't even hooked up. It seems to cool fine even without the fan running.
Non Jeep related but here on stadium drive there other day diesel was $2.99 a gallon... I'm guessing it was a typo but not sure lol
 
#700 ·
I spent the better part of all-damn-day reading this from page one to here. What a great thread, you added considerable time chronicling if for us. Thank you.
You never mentioned Loctite once (did I miss it?), that was the biggest surprise for me in the entire thread. With your recent re-tightening of bolts that part could have been eliminated.
I'm hoping to do a V-8 conversion in my 01 TJ. I have a great running injected 350 in my Z-71 that I was planning to use as the donor. I'm starting to second guess that plan and thinking Mopar might be a better choice as the stars just seem to align better.
Thanks for all you have done!
Bill
 
#701 ·
Thanks. I have 2 different grades of loc-tite that I keep in the garage for regular use. Because I'm in Michigan, almost all exposed bolts get either loc-tite or anti-seize. The only thing I can recall that I used loc-tite on is the driveshaft u-joint strap bolts and yoke bolts because it's standard procedure. I didn't put any on the motor mount bolts because it was supplied with locknuts. Shouldn't have to put loc-tite on lock nuts, but I suppose I will when I get around to fixing that.
 
#704 ·
Actually, you weren't who I was referring to, so apologies if I never replied.

I used the factory service manuals for both vehicles, and used them to figure out how to combine the wiring harnesses. I never came up with a how-to diagram or anything like that. Now that I have one under my belt, I probably could if I did one or two more.
 
#705 ·
Ran across this in the Dodge FSM while looking for something else. My gauge reads 1/4 when the tank is dead empty, and this is why. Making a note for later if I ever decide to fix it.

For Fuel Gauge Operation: A constant current
source of about 32 mA is supplied to the resistor
track on the fuel gauge sending unit. This is fed
directly from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The resistor track is used to vary the voltage depending
on fuel tank float level. As fuel level increases,
the float and arm move up, which decreases voltage.
As fuel level decreases, the float and arm move
down, which increases voltage. The varied voltage
signal is returned back to the PCM through the sensor
return circuit. Output voltages will vary from
about .6 volts at FULL, to about 8.6 volts at EMPTY
(Jeep models), or, about 7.0 volts at EMPTY (Dodge
Truck models).
 
#706 ·
Jason said:
Ran across this in the Dodge FSM while looking for something else. My gauge reads 1/4 when the tank is dead empty, and this is why. Making a note for later if I ever decide to fix it. For Fuel Gauge Operation: A constant current source of about 32 mA is supplied to the resistor track on the fuel gauge sending unit. This is fed directly from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The resistor track is used to vary the voltage depending on fuel tank float level. As fuel level increases, the float and arm move up, which decreases voltage. As fuel level decreases, the float and arm move down, which increases voltage. The varied voltage signal is returned back to the PCM through the sensor return circuit. Output voltages will vary from about .6 volts at FULL, to about 8.6 volts at EMPTY (Jeep models), or, about 7.0 volts at EMPTY (Dodge Truck models).
That's weird, my jeeps fuel level is identical after the swap. Once the light turns it takes almost the exact amount to fill up as it did. This makes sense in your case though.
 
#709 ·
Interesting. Was yours originally a 4 or 6 cylinder? I know the gas tank full level was different for each (15 gal vs. 19 gal.), but that shouldn't affect the empty reading.

I looked in both the 97 and 99 FSM and neither has specifics about what the voltage level is for the fuel level sensor.
 
#711 ·
Before my swap, the gauge would read 1/4-3/8 of a tank when empty. After the swap, it worked correctly! I was very surprised, I'd never seen the low fuel light before. Always ran out before it came on. Mine was a 6 with a 19 gallon tank too.
 
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