Here's a pic of a mock-up of the battery box on the battery tray. I almost decided to switch to blue rather than the hemi orange (the rest of the jeep is black and blue, as is the distributor) but a close friend who recently passed was the one who convinced me of the orange in the first place. It's staying.
Alright, I'll give it a shot, thanks. I'm hoping to pull the excess wiring from the computer and clean up the engine bay by the middle of next week then spend next weekend dropping the motor back in. Once that's done I'll re-wire everything so I can be sure I have the lengths correct.
A little more progress was made today. I began wiring the relay boxes and preparing a lot of the wiring for the Jeep. A lot of what I'm planning may be over-kill but its certainly going to be better than the stock wiring.
Each relay box holds 5 relays. These are for:
Distributor (HEI, will be run on a relay)
intake manifold heater
driving lights (eventually)
headlight high beam
headlight low beam
long range lights
reverse lights (eventually)
The thick blue wire is a 9 conductor wire i found on ebay for fairly cheap. It will make running wires into the cab for switches MUCH easier. The green wires are the grounds and will run to a common bus bar for grounds. Each relay box will be protected by a 60A maxi fuse in a separate fuse holder mounted next to the box.
Another small update, though no pictures this time. I replaced all the drive shaft u-joints today while the drive shafts were out. One on each shaft was bad (broken and mashed needle bearings) though there was no play in the shafts before i pulled them. I also got a little more done on the wiring harness. This next week I get to pull the dash, remove all the excess wiring in the engine bay, and repaint the engine bay. I have some help coming over thursday or friday of next week to drop the motor in.
I started poking around the wiring in the engine bay and it looks like 75-80% of it will be gone with the computer. Anyone know what the two relays mounted to the side of the battery tray are? I dont think either are currently functioning, but before I trash them I'd like to make sure.
Ok, I got quite a bit done today. I started with pulling the dash to correct the wiring behind it, remove the computer and make it easier to re-wire the accessories and switches. In doing so I found a bit of surface rust under the windshield frame. Time for a new gasket or whatever that thing is. Placed the order with Morris 4x4.
This is after I cleaned it up a bit with a wire wheel brush.
All taped off. I shot it with some rust neutralizer then painted over it in black just to prevent it from getting worse. I can honestly say this is the FIRST bit of rust I've ever run into on this Jeep.
Start of the re-wiring / wiring repair.
This is the only 'before' pic I got of the engine bay wiring, but i removed about 4 miles of electrical tape. I can also honestly say that what I found scared the #$%@ out of me. The previous owner was a fool to say the least.
Started mounting the accessory drives and repainted the fender wells and the underside of the hood as we had discussed earlier in the thread. In this picture the underside of the hood is still wet, it turned out very nice and isnt blotchy at all now that it is dry.
I also mounted the battery tray and the battery box i purchased from Ballistic Fab.
Several months ago someone attempted to steal my CB by cutting the wires off flush with the box. Fortunately they were stopped before they could get away with it. To keep this from happening again I've decided to set it up so the CB is easily detachable and can be secured in the glove box. I purchased a 2 pin quick connect online and soldered the leads onto the board in the CB (the old wires were too short to splice to).
And some information for anyone searching:
If your looking to upgrade the alternator on the 4.2L / 258 I dug around in the back at my local autozone and managed to find an alternator for a 1987 Chevy V10 1/2 ton P/U 4WD with the 5.0L V8. It is an exact fit for the stock serpentine belt bracket and puts out 100A. It's also cheaper than the stock replacement part from autozone.